2014+ Power Tailgate Lock installed

MotoMedic · January 5, 2014

MotoMedic, thanks for the excellent write up. Is there a trick to get the wire thru the grommet with out much damage? Also what is the powerpro you speak of? I know it is not the fishing line I use.

Thanks again for the work.

My method is pretty DIY! I take a wire coat hanger and cut free the bottom straight piece. After cutting, the tips are sharp. On one end, I tape up about 3" of end of wire parallel to wire hanger. Then push the other sharp end through the grommet. It makes a tiny hole then, as you pull the wire through, it stretches the hole just enough so it'll pass through. Makes a really tight seal, so no silicone needed.

That was a typo... I used a PowerProbe http://www.powerprobe.com/

Stex · January 6, 2014

Thanks MotorMedic, that helps greatly.

MotoMedic · January 8, 2014

I remember someone questioning somewhere the power tailgate lock's performance in cold weather. While I can't comment on extreme winter conditions, yesterday morning we had a 'record low' of 21 degrees and the power lock still worked like a champ!

If anyone has specific product/installation questions, PM me. I stay mainly in the 2014 section, so I'll likely miss your post here. Thanks.

reldridg · January 15, 2014

Just wanted to thank you for taking a picture of the wires. I installed the tailgate lock tonight and using your photos and description I was able to get to the wires quickly without it I would have been searching for awhile since there are about 10 brown wires with yellow stripes.

Works well thanks again for the write up.

sh00ter · January 16, 2014

I just ordered one of these from Pop & Lock. They have a 10% discount code on the website that's good through the end of January.

block8head · January 20, 2014

Installed mine today. work like a champ, no more using the key..

Thanks again Moto for the awesome instruction.. ;)

reldridg · January 20, 2014

Just an addition to my post above, looking back at it if I needed to install this lock again I would have used the positap connectors versus the splice connectors that came with the kit, the splice connectors did chew up the wire quit a bit.

Otherwise easy peasy.

MotoMedic · January 21, 2014

Just an addition to my post above, looking back at it if I needed to install this lock again I would have used the positap connectors versus the splice connectors that came with the kit, the splice connectors did chew up the wire quit a bit.

Otherwise easy peasy.

Good point. I also did not use the included connectors. I went the splice / heat shrink route.

fondupot · January 22, 2014

This is an awesome mod....simple, easy, relatively cheap.

I Just wonder how the actuator stands up against the test of time.

blownZ71 · January 23, 2014

Do you think you could add a switch to drop the tailgate from inside the cab? I figure with the soft lower feature already included on these trucks it would be fairly simple.

MotoMedic · January 23, 2014

Do you think you could add a switch to drop the tailgate from inside the cab? I figure with the soft lower feature already included on these trucks it would be fairly simple.

The power lock kit only moves the locking cylinder.

Remotely opening the tailgate would require a separate servo/cylinder to operate the latching mechanism. I'm sure it could be done but would require significant engineering/testing/etc. (the new 2015 F-150 will have the tailgate remote opening as an option)

mcnwil · January 31, 2014

is this operating on 12vdc? The instructions say no test light and a device that is computer safe for testing. I have a fluke DVM and just want to be sure of what voltage I should see?

11) Now for the wiring... it's a cluster! The instructions don't help much here. You're looking for a tan w/ yellow stripe & a solid gray wire. With my PowerPro I was eventually able to find the correct two. When you're looking for them, start in the top corner closest to the gas/brake pedals, and look for wires that are ever so slightly thicker than the rest. [pic 008]

12) Feed the tailgate wiring through the parking brake grommet under the carpet. It's tight as hell, so as long as you don't make a big hole in it, it won't leak. [pic 009]

13) Connect the green wire to tan/yellow (looked brown/yellow to me) and the blue wire to solid gray. Test lock/unlock feature.

14) If everything works, you can unplug the longer wire provided & begin snaking it from the front of truck to spare tire area, plug it back in, zip tie wherever, replace all panels, etc... and you're finished.

reldridg · January 31, 2014

I saw 12volt DC, I used my back probe to probe the wires that motomedic pointed out in his photos to confirm the wires. 0vdc then hit the key clicker and would see the jump to 12vdc, I set my meter to log the max and it was jumping just above 12vdc.

mcnwil · February 8, 2014

Received mine yesterday and installed today. All went fine, this was much easier than the 06 having to remove door panels. Finding the correct brown/yellow and grey wire was the worst part as they were on completely different sides with one on top and one on bottom. The person that wrote the Pop&Lock instructions was color blind or has never seen Tan.

Thanks MotoMedic for the write up and pictures as they are so much clearer than what is provided.

Green 1364 · March 6, 2014

..continued....

One last thing!

The key cylinder on tailgate will now function differently!

It is always stays in the vertical position, so...

..turn counter-clockwise then back to 12 to unlock

..turn clockwise then back to 12 to lock.

Installed mine today power unlock/lock works great. I just can't get it to work with the key. Looks like the new cam arm flat part (shoulder stops) is keeping the key from going far enough in either direction by 1/16". Anyone else run into this?

Thanks