chuckl1218 Posted January 29, 2015 Posted January 29, 2015 Not sure, but it comes in the kit, so why not. Yes, it is. As I recall, the plunger on the solenoid pushes on the new cam arm and allows you to manually unlock with your key. Stock cam arm will not eggage the solenoid.
kc61 Posted January 29, 2015 Posted January 29, 2015 Yes, it is. As I recall, the plunger on the solenoid pushes on the new cam arm and allows you to manually unlock with your key. Stock cam arm will not eggage the solenoid. Correct, mine just takes a little click to the left or right to lock or unlock.
Bonker Posted January 29, 2015 Posted January 29, 2015 Correct, mine just takes a little click to the left or right to lock or unlock. That is correct
fondupot Posted February 8, 2015 Posted February 8, 2015 I When I was finished, I found that I couldn't lock the tailgate with the key. After investigating, I found the new C-clip was moving with the key, causing the locking mechanism to flip to unlock when I returned the key to 12 o'clock to remove it. The fix: I had to remove the C-clip and re-install it so that the mouth of the C-clip was facing "down" towards the hinge point of the tailgate. Originally I had the mouth of the C-clip facing "up." Hope that helps someone on their install. Thanks again to a great thread. Im installing mine right now and was having this exact issue. Glad I came to this thread to read through it again.
fondupot Posted February 8, 2015 Posted February 8, 2015 (edited) Alright so what the hell. Im so annoyed right now. I've tried the biggest brown/yellow with the biggest solid grey. I've tried the biggest brown/yellow with the biggest grey/green I've tried a slightly smaller brown/yellow with the biggest solid grey. I've tried the slightly smaller brown/yellow with the biggest grey/green. I cannot get this thing to work. the actuator does absolutely squat. NOTHING. What am I doing wrong? EDIT: Finally got it working. Screw those little scotchlocks things. No good. I just did a similar connection as Crf450r420 in post #81. I stripped a bit of the wire off and then connected the blue and greens directly. Works like a charm. Edited February 8, 2015 by fondupot 1
Dunc Posted February 9, 2015 Posted February 9, 2015 (edited) Is this possible if there is the linex spray in liner already installed from the factory? I haven't looked yet, but I would think the linex is sprayed over the bolts and I wouldn't be able to remove that tailgate panel. EDIT: Nevermind, the factory doesn't go over the bolts. Edited February 9, 2015 by Dunc
szalkerous Posted February 11, 2015 Posted February 11, 2015 Is this possible if there is the linex spray in liner already installed from the factory? I haven't looked yet, but I would think the linex is sprayed over the bolts and I wouldn't be able to remove that tailgate panel. EDIT: Nevermind, the factory doesn't go over the bolts. No decent body shop doing bed spray (Line-X, Rhino Liner, etc.) should cover access panel bolts. If they do, refuse the job and make them fix it. 2
kc61 Posted March 9, 2015 Posted March 9, 2015 Installed my pop & lock today on my new 2014 GMC Sierra Crew Cab standard box SLT and it went great. Thank you to Motomedic and all who contributed to this thread. It helped a lot! I decided to go with pressing the unlock on the keyfob twice to unlock the tailgate. Here's the wiring that worked: - vehicle's fat brown with yellow stripe attached to the green pop & lock wire - vehicle's fat gray with green stripe attached to the blue pop & lock wire When I was finished, I found that I couldn't lock the tailgate with the key. After investigating, I found the new C-clip was moving with the key, causing the locking mechanism to flip to unlock when I returned the key to 12 o'clock to remove it. The fix: I had to remove the C-clip and re-install it so that the mouth of the C-clip was facing "down" towards the hinge point of the tailgate. Originally I had the mouth of the C-clip facing "up." Hope that helps someone on their install. Thanks again to a great thread. I rewired mine Saturday to this method, works great. I think the lock will last longer using this method. Thanks
f8l vnm Posted March 9, 2015 Posted March 9, 2015 Here is my video tutorial, enjoy. Thank you sir and for all the great people here who share their stories with such details. Greatly appreciated. 1
sugarjohnson Posted March 10, 2015 Posted March 10, 2015 Just ordered mine tonight. All you guys buying these raised the price on amazon......lol
sugarjohnson Posted March 12, 2015 Posted March 12, 2015 Got mine installed tonight 1 hour total. Thanks to all who posted made wiring very easy. Now for the bad. I snapped the black cover that covers the wire bundle. Yeah the pain in the ass one! I have gone through every part diagram on GM Parts direct and can't find the darn thing anywhere. Not the end of the world still snaps on and holds the sill plate fine. Any help is appreciated to locate this part # 1
sharper Posted March 18, 2015 Posted March 18, 2015 In case this can help someone I'll post some pics from my install. The wires are the thicker ones if there are some the same color. I used my girl's sewing pins to poke into the wire and test before making my final install. I then pull back the insulation and wrap the wires onto the factory wire. Then solder them up before wrapping them with silicone tape and zip ties to make sure it never comes loose. Thank you - the pics and info were invaluable. 1
sharper Posted March 19, 2015 Posted March 19, 2015 Mine rattles in there like a son of a gun Is that bolt secured tightly? Both pieces of that cam thingy?
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