Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

If security is a main concern, I think RollNLock is the best cover. It has a four-point lock which includes both sides of the cover into the rails a well as two lock points into the tailgate.

Posted

If security is a main concern, I think RollNLock is the best cover. It has a four-point lock which includes both sides of the cover into the rails a well as two lock points into the tailgate.

 

 

My three choices are

1) fold-a-cover G4 elite with personal caddy

2) Diamondback SE with rugged black finish (the HD cost to much)

3) roll n lock

 

I've found these covers with these options to be around the same price point.

I never really considered a retractable cover due to having a canister. After looking into roll n lock more I really do like them. Both the roll n lock and G4 look sleek and seem functional. Both have multiple latch points. The diamondback is a toss up and I only like it bc it seems very solid and secure. I'd have to say G4 is my top choice. 2nd choice is between roll n lock and Diamondback. Not really leaning towards one or the other. How's the install on the roll n lock? Still not completely sold with that bar you attach to the tailgate for the tailgate locking points. Anyone have pictures of it? I have line X and it might be hard to drill through to attach this. I'm sure if I actually saw one in person I would be sold. It's just hard to tell from pics online.

 

If the G4 latches can be operated by pulling those latch cords that will eliminate that cover from my list making my choice a little easier. The G4 seems like a quality cover and I have found its an option offered from the dealer. plus the fact they bash bak covers for this pull cord situation leads me to believe it's not s problem on their covers.

 

Can anyone with a Fold-a-cover G4 confirm this? Can the latches be operated by pulling on that cord?

 

Thanks

Posted

I'm not sure what you mean by "the cord" on the G4. The G4 doesn't have a cord to pull. Both the front and rear panels have locks that have to be engaged, but there's no cord. The cover uses metal "piano" type hinges which is rather old technology. I'm not saying that's bad, it's just old and no other cover that I know of still uses them.

 

The RollNLock is good, but is a bit picky on position due to the four locking points. If the cover gets out of position, the cover won't lock correctly.

 

The Diamondback has a very unsophisticated locking mechanism. A rod that has a vinyl covering at the end of the rod slides underneath your bed's rail. Nothing protects the rail except for the vinyl on the rod and there will be friction on both the vinyl and the rail.

Posted

I'm not sure what you mean by "the cord" on the G4. The G4 doesn't have a cord to pull. Both the front and rear panels have locks that have to be engaged, but there's no cord. The cover uses metal "piano" type hinges which is rather old technology. I'm not saying that's bad, it's just old and no other cover that I know of still uses them.

 

The RollNLock is good, but is a bit picky on position due to the four locking points. If the cover gets out of position, the cover won't lock correctly.

 

The Diamondback has a very unsophisticated locking mechanism. A rod that has a vinyl covering at the end of the rod slides underneath your bed's rail. Nothing protects the rail except for the vinyl on the rod and there will be friction on both the vinyl and the rail.

What I was referring to is circled in red in the attached pic. I have never seen this cover in person. So I was asking if there was some type of pull cord that operates the latches when you open the G4 cover......like the Bak covers you pull a cord on the bottom of the cover and it opens the latches. The G4 you don't actually pull a cord, but I was wondering if the latch you lift works pull cords that work the latches on the underside of the cover.

 

I actually contacted Fold a Cover to ask about this. This is what they told me...

 

"Thank you for contacting Steffens Enterprises, the makers of Fold-a-Cover.

Since the Latch Cable is protected by the sleeve it would be difficult for someone to use a simple coat-hanger to release the latches. They would require an intimate knowledge of how our covers are assembled and how they operate."

 

I left some out bc they actually told me what would need to be done to break into one of these G4 covers. Having said that it would take a bit of skill or knowledge of the cover.

 

So, I'm a little confused bc truck daddy says there are no cords in the cover. Someone on a different forum said they don't have cords either but have solid rods. Basically I don't want a cover you can break into using coat hangers.....in this covers case going by what I was told from fold a cover.......it would take two coat hangers....and that's what I was trying to figure out.

I'm not really interested in a canister/retractable type cover. I knew someone that loaded his quad in his truck. The quad shifted in the bed while driving and dented the canister and binded up the operation of the cover so it wouldn't track out of the canister anymore. Plus.......idk if I like the whole idea of it. Just my opinion.

 

I was all for the G4, but I'm still unsure of this one detail. The company says it has cords.......I've had two people tell me they don't have cords......? The DB cover seems heavy duty. Yea it has rods that slide under the bed rails, but that seems more secure to me than a lot of the locking options out there. If DB covers only down side is that they use an unsophisticated locking method that works......they will be getting my business. So I'm seriously leaning towards the DB right now. I would like to find a place I could actually look at the construction of a fold a cover in person so I could get a better feel for how it locks. Or if anyone has pictures of the "pull cord" or "solid rod" that works the latches I would be interested. Call me crazy, but I just don't want a cover that can be defeated using coat hangers.

post-138185-0-93139100-1445287915_thumb.jpeg

post-138185-0-93139100-1445287915_thumb.jpeg

post-138185-0-93139100-1445287915_thumb.jpeg

post-138185-0-93139100-1445287915_thumb.jpeg

Posted (edited)

OK, I understand your concern now. The cover does not have exposed cables, they are inside some housing. It would be extremely difficult to get a hanger in there at the correct position. What I meant by "no cords" is that there is no cord to pull to release the lock as in a Bakflip.

 

G4Elite3.jpg

 

G4Elite1.jpg

 

G4Elite5.jpg

Edited by TruckDaddy
  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for the pictures. Just so I understand.......if you were to pull one of those cables that attach to the locking latches it wouldn't actually operate the latch?

 

The way I see it is when the cover is unlocked you can lift that latch near the lock on the outside to gain access. I'm guessing when you lift this opening latch it pulls on those cables that in turn operate the latche at the striker bolts. I could have it completely wrong. That's just what I gather by looking at it. When the cover is locked you can't lift that opening latch so the cables are not being pulled so he cover doesn't unlatch from the striker bolts. If I have his correct.....it would seem by pulling one of those cables it would operate the latches at the striker bolt...

Posted

...or just take a crowbar and pry the cover up since the latch plates are held onto the aluminum skin with small screws.

 

Really though, if anyone wants to get into any cover they will figure out some way to do it.

 

That Diamond Back looks like a pretty tough unit, but a little too industrial looking for me and fact the center panel is stationary is inconvenient for my use.

  • Like 1
Posted

...or just take a crowbar and pry the cover up since the latch plates are held onto the aluminum skin with small screws.

 

Really though, if anyone wants to get into any cover they will figure out some way to do it.

 

That Diamond Back looks like a pretty tough unit, but a little too industrial looking for me and fact the center panel is stationary is inconvenient for my use.

 

My Dad always said "locks only keep the honest people out." If someone wants something badly enough, they're going to get it. PERIOD.

 

The best you can do is to make yourself the smallest possible needle in the largest possible haystack. Having a tonneau on your bed means that no one can just blatantly look in there to see what you have. "Security through obscurity." Having a hard cover means that they can't just slit it open. Having a locking cover means that they will need to actively "break in". Maybe this would draw some attention depending on when and where.

 

At the end of the day, if you won't want it stolen, don't leave it in your truck. Period.

  • Like 1
Posted

My three choices are

1) fold-a-cover G4 elite with personal caddy

2) Diamondback SE with rugged black finish (the HD cost to much)

3) roll n lock

 

I've found these covers with these options to be around the same price point.

I never really considered a retractable cover due to having a canister. After looking into roll n lock more I really do like them. Both the roll n lock and G4 look sleek and seem functional. Both have multiple latch points. The diamondback is a toss up and I only like it bc it seems very solid and secure. I'd have to say G4 is my top choice. 2nd choice is between roll n lock and Diamondback. Not really leaning towards one or the other. How's the install on the roll n lock? Still not completely sold with that bar you attach to the tailgate for the tailgate locking points. Anyone have pictures of it? I have line X and it might be hard to drill through to attach this. I'm sure if I actually saw one in person I would be sold. It's just hard to tell from pics online.

 

If the G4 latches can be operated by pulling those latch cords that will eliminate that cover from my list making my choice a little easier. The G4 seems like a quality cover and I have found its an option offered from the dealer. plus the fact they bash bak covers for this pull cord situation leads me to believe it's not s problem on their covers.

 

Can anyone with a Fold-a-cover G4 confirm this? Can the latches be operated by pulling on that cord?

 

Thanks

The Roll n Lock has an option to not use the lock bar on the tailgate. It's call an "N/T Kit". It allows the cover to roll out until it meets the tail gate. You do however loose two of the lock points. Handy if you like to quickly open and close the tail gate with out manipulating the cover. I don't have it installed on mine, but I did get the optional kit (it's free) when I purchased my cover just in case. I'll take some good pictures today and post them. This is my second truck with a Roll N Lock. Great Cover ! Their customer service is awesome. Highly recommended.

Posted

Just got my truck bed lined with Rhino Liner, and got a new Access Lorado cover. Cleans up the truck nicely.

 

post-136265-0-05721700-1445366945_thumb.jpg

post-136265-0-76907000-1445366988_thumb.jpg

post-136265-0-05721700-1445366945_thumb.jpg

post-136265-0-76907000-1445366988_thumb.jpg

post-136265-0-05721700-1445366945_thumb.jpg

post-136265-0-76907000-1445366988_thumb.jpg

post-136265-0-05721700-1445366945_thumb.jpg

post-136265-0-76907000-1445366988_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

My three choices are

1) fold-a-cover G4 elite with personal caddy

2) Diamondback SE with rugged black finish (the HD cost to much)

3) roll n lock

 

I've found these covers with these options to be around the same price point.

I never really considered a retractable cover due to having a canister. After looking into roll n lock more I really do like them. Both the roll n lock and G4 look sleek and seem functional. Both have multiple latch points. The diamondback is a toss up and I only like it bc it seems very solid and secure. I'd have to say G4 is my top choice. 2nd choice is between roll n lock and Diamondback. Not really leaning towards one or the other. How's the install on the roll n lock? Still not completely sold with that bar you attach to the tailgate for the tailgate locking points. Anyone have pictures of it? I have line X and it might be hard to drill through to attach this. I'm sure if I actually saw one in person I would be sold. It's just hard to tell from pics online.

 

If the G4 latches can be operated by pulling those latch cords that will eliminate that cover from my list making my choice a little easier. The G4 seems like a quality cover and I have found its an option offered from the dealer. plus the fact they bash bak covers for this pull cord situation leads me to believe it's not s problem on their covers.

 

Can anyone with a Fold-a-cover G4 confirm this? Can the latches be operated by pulling on that cord?

 

Thanks

Here ya go: The factory tailgate liner makes having the bar on the tailgate almost seamless. It doesnt get in the way.

post-146984-0-67176600-1445429216_thumb.jpg

post-146984-0-25868400-1445429238_thumb.jpg

post-146984-0-30809100-1445429250_thumb.jpg

post-146984-0-67176600-1445429216_thumb.jpg

post-146984-0-25868400-1445429238_thumb.jpg

post-146984-0-30809100-1445429250_thumb.jpg

post-146984-0-67176600-1445429216_thumb.jpg

post-146984-0-25868400-1445429238_thumb.jpg

post-146984-0-30809100-1445429250_thumb.jpg

post-146984-0-67176600-1445429216_thumb.jpg

post-146984-0-25868400-1445429238_thumb.jpg

post-146984-0-30809100-1445429250_thumb.jpg

Edited by Cheverado
Posted

I got the diamondback SE. I love it. Took less than 30 minutes to install, should be less than 15 minutes to remove or install in the future. Just had to adjust the locking bar length the first time you put it on. Haven't had much rain since I put it on but I can't imagine any water making it past this thing. I bought some temporary cauking to plug the holes in the bed floor. I haven't done it yet. Want to see if any water comes in while driving before I do.

The tailgate seal I put on the sides has me a little worried though. I didn't do the bottom and the side seal doesn't go all the way to the top. But that will apply to any cover I guess. I covered the tie down holes with gorilla tape because I removed the plugs before getting line-x.

post-128978-0-11426600-1445966467_thumb.jpg

post-128978-0-11426600-1445966467_thumb.jpg

post-128978-0-11426600-1445966467_thumb.jpg

post-128978-0-11426600-1445966467_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

2015 Chevy Silverado Extang Solid Fold 2.0 review.

 

I just received this today. Reading online reviews I expect it will leak. I bought it for 3 reasons.

1. I can open and close the tailgate without opening the cover

2. Bed Security

3. Easy to remove.

 

First off, it is easy to install, 5 minutes, seriously. The quality was much better than I expected.

 

IMG_0070_zpsztqzjk2m.jpgIMG_0072_zpspdhlqyyo.jpgIMG_0073_zpsmcovkbqz.jpgIMG_0079_zpswbzfqq3l.jpgIMG_0080_zpsamsajaus.jpgIMG_0076_zps8d4bakch.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

I haven't read the entire 66 pages but are you expecting any changes in gas mileage with a tonneau cover installed?

Thanks ,

Eddie

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 1 Anonymous, 950 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I usually do as well or better than the sticker for mileage. Usually better going west than east. North then South. Wind makes a difference. I’m not usually a conspiracy theorist. But it did dawn on me I’m going by the vehicle calculation. Now that would be interesting.
    • https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/news/fuel-economy-stickers-don-t-tell-the-whole-story-aaa-data-reveals-why/ar-AA26ocHk?ocid=winp2fptaskbarhover&cvid=6a4122ea3dae47e5b8dfbed5d4fd3d55&cvpid=648f6b4fc2fa4eddb4c12893aeb957ed&ei=59
    • What’s missing in all this is patience and investment in the future. Buy a 170K starter home. Ten years later sell it invest in a more expensive home. Eventually you’ll have a 600K home and pay starter home payments. Buy a starter car. Maintain it well. Save the payments after it’s payed for then buy an expensive car if you desire. Buy a tumbler make your own coffee, pack your lunch. Cook your own dinner. Most importantly take care of your car.
    • People mislead themselves. Statistics are highly useful indicators.   Here's the tie-in to this thread. If an oil sample tests shows a wear indicator of 7 using cheaper ACDelco oil, and a wear indicator of 2 (lower = less wear) using a particular brand of Mobil oil, and wear has a linear relationship with engine lifespan, anyone could assume that Mobil is reducing wear by more than 50% (let's just say a 200% reduction for you red state people trying hard to do math) which leads to increasing engine life by 2x. Perhaps, in a vacuum, by itself, when dreamed by AI.   Yeah?! That's what the statistic is saying, isn't it?   No, it isn't. It didn't come out and say engine life is doubled. That's a very bad assumption, and a case of severe myopia by assuming something potentially untrue about the only data point in focus.   Average cost of a new car is 50k. You bet it is.   The median cost of a new car is more like 35k. Expensive cars are skewing the perception that "average" now means a $50k price of entry for a very average automobile. And that's not true. People who don't understand statistics twist the living heck out of them to mean all sorts of things they don't actually mean.   "Average" new car payment is $1000/month. Yep, it is. And in that number are all the $35k new car buyers who bring significant equity, and the $25k new car buyers who finance the car for a month just to get a rebate, and then pay it off. Know what isn't in that number? All the payments made by people who don't finance a car.   Picking one's own data point (don't have a car payment, never paid $50k for a new vehicle, my house cost $170k, I afforded a middle class lifestyle on $4.50/hr) is just a data point. Just like earning $25/hr in an area where the median home price is almost $1 Million is a data point. In fact, it's a lot of data points given that 80% of the US population lives in/around major cities. They're not idiots; the vast majority of them do it to make a living because that's where the big money is.   The highs have become higher, lows have become lower, and how your personal mileage varies is not truth for an entire country. At the same time you can't NOT acknowledge the data. While it doesn't paint YOUR personal picture, it certainly tints the reality that you also live in, as does your single data point.    
    • Glad you had success with it. I did as well, but about 5-6 months later it returned. Tried again, same result. This was after the dealer made several attempts and never even got it to slow down.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...