Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have the Under Cover Ultra Flex cover and was wondering if anyone has added any foam strips to help with water leaks?

Posted

I just installed the Truxedo Pro X15 today. Loving the super low profile look and ease of use so far. IMG_0955.JPG


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I found a NIB BAK Bakflip F1 on Craigslist for 400 dollars.

Installation took approx. 45 minutes working alone.

I've seen a few negative reviews on these, but I figured for that price, I couldn't go wrong.

This is my first tonneau cover, so I really can't make a comparison.

It was super easy to install, fits well and I like that it's practically invisible from the side.

Posted

After much debate I jumped in and did it. Bestop For the win! The instructions give you a good idea of what to do, but you have to be willing to test fit and move it to get it just right. No noticeable noise and took it for a 700 mile test to make sure I like it. I’ll throw out the verdict in a month or so.68b4d39e8a96ec9cf2d8ad3c0298588e.jpg

316ffe7f67867864994e813e0fd03a32.jpg

54f33781bdccb21287a223896c24eac6.jpg

0bb11a9281025faec12d99a12193d7f9.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
I have the Under Cover Ultra Flex cover and was wondering if anyone has added any foam strips to help with water leaks?


The only spots I’ve noticed water intrusion is actually through the tailgate. I️ think you can find a tailgate seal kit, but it’s never been enough water to bother me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
5 hours ago, NoLand said:

 


The only spots I’ve noticed water intrusion is actually through the tailgate. I️ think you can find a tailgate seal kit, but it’s never been enough water to bother me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Same here. I thought about adding a seal at the front of the bed but I haven't noticed any water there yet.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
18 hours ago, steve76t said:

added a Bak Revolver X2 and a bed rug a couple weeks ago.  Love it so far.

have had mine for about 6 months. good purchase. always get compliments on it.

Posted (edited)

Be sure to clean it about once a month and apply 303. My X2 is two years old and going strong.

 

Edit: I also ordered a second cab gasket from Bak to go behind the first one I laid down, since a little water was getting in. Now it's dry as a bone.

Edited by Sierra_Kayaker
Posted (edited)

Diamondback is the only way to go for me. Full use of your bed and you can stack quads, side by side, wood or whatever on top. Plus it’s weathet proof and nearly impossible to get into. 

9798331E-8DB5-43B6-9C17-8DE6BC71B32D.jpeg

Edited by PBRANDON
  • Like 1
Posted
On 11/30/2017 at 11:44 AM, Sierra_Kayaker said:

Be sure to clean it about once a month and apply 303. My X2 is two years old and going strong.

 

Edit: I also ordered a second cab gasket from Bak to go behind the first one I laid down, since a little water was getting in. Now it's dry as a bone.

I keep forgetting to pick up some 303 when near an autoparts store or wal-mart.  One day I'll remember. 

 

As for the 2nd gasket, so far my top has been dry.  Only a couple minor rain showers and a carwash though.  We'll see what gets through after a good snowstorm. 

Posted
On 12/2/2017 at 12:41 AM, PBRANDON said:

Diamondback is the only way to go for me. Full use of your bed and you can stack quads, side by side, wood or whatever on top. Plus it’s weathet proof and nearly impossible to get into. 

9798331E-8DB5-43B6-9C17-8DE6BC71B32D.jpeg

NICE!  I almost when with a Diamondback when I was shopping around for a tonneau.  May end up with one of these one day. 

Posted
On 12/6/2017 at 10:47 PM, steve76t said:

I keep forgetting to pick up some 303 when near an autoparts store or wal-mart.  One day I'll remember. 

 

As for the 2nd gasket, so far my top has been dry.  Only a couple minor rain showers and a carwash though.  We'll see what gets through after a good snowstorm. 

https://slickdeals.net/f/11005619-amazon-303-aerospace-protectant-32oz-with-s-s-free-s-h-8-57?utm_source=rss&utm_content=fp&utm_medium=RSS2

Posted

Hi

I'm new here. I just get 2014 sierra 1500 double cab 6.5 ft  bed and  looking for bed cap. I'm trying to get something locally from craiglist (NJ) 

My question is ; Do you guys know what cap fit to this truck ( type or model or maybe from ford f150) or any bed cap to fit 6.5 bed ill work ???  OR i have to look for exact cap for 2014 gmc

Thank you and i appreciate any inputs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had an issue with a new 1985 Z-28 some years ago. The 4WDB's were less than adequate when purchased IMO.  I had taken it in for small warranty services and asked them on three occasions to check them. Each time is was "could not duplicate on the service ticket. The warranty ran out about a month after my last visit and had to take it back for warranty rework. I again complained about the brakes. Well, low and behold, this time they determined the rear calipers were sticking and gave me a quote to repair. They had records as well as O had receipts of each time complained about the brakes while still under warranty. My dad was a life long body shop owner and told me to keep my cool and tell them that I wanted to speak to the GM Regional District Manager. The service manager disappeared for a few minutes, came back and told me they would replace the calipers free of charge. 
    • Towing a 2022 Lance 24 ft travel trailer with our 2021 GMC Sierra 2500HD, gas.  Loaded, trailer is about 6,000 lb.  We get up to 10 mpg at 55 mpg, such as I-5.  Pleased with the combination.
    • I decided to give it a shot and see what sort of a gong show it would be to a pan drop themed oil change on my 2025 gas truck with the 10 speed. All indications I had seen so far was that there was no way that pan was coming out of there due to the cross over exhaust pipe not allowing enough clearance for the back end of the pan to duck out from under the valve body since it hangs lower than the pan to trans mount flange and certainly the filter does. I never touched any of the exhaust mount hardware at all, be that the engine manifolds to Y pipe, the bracket on the side of the transmission, or the two bolt flange further back behind the trans/transfer case. I put the truck up on four jack stands as there was no way I was going to struggle with that lack of clearance under the truck. The truck was cold as it had sat over night so all the trans fluid had drained to the pan, so I drained the bit of oil that would come out of the level check plug at the bottom near the front of the pan and put the plug back in to reduce the ensuing mess after that. Then took out all but one bolt front and rear and then pushed up on the pan and took out the remaining two bolts and then let the front of the pan tilt and spill out most of its contents into a drain pan. I then popped the pan gasket off its two locating nubs and kicked it a bit to the left side so it was no longer on the flange of the pan to get all the clearance I could and managed to get the pan slipped out of there by swinging the front of the pan to the right but keeping the rear part of the pan inline if not slightly to the left of its mounting flange area and lifting the front of the pan enough to keep the rear part of the pan low enough that allowed the pan to "JUST" slip out without forcing anything. I installed a new trans filter and seal and as per GM instructions on this site I torqued the two bolts to that 44 inch pound goal ( they take an 8 mm socket ) In reversing the pan procedure after I had cleaned up the pan both inside and out completely ( touching the outside of a dirty pan and dealing with installing a gasket at the same time would be a disaster ). First I slipped the pan into place and yes it took me a while as it won't go unless its slid in just at the right angles, then once the back of the pan was into the area of the flange mount, I went and got the gasket and then threaded that through the front of the pan and feeding it under the filter etc and finally working it onto the flange of the pan and lining up the two locating nubs to drop into the pan. Then lifted the pan up into place and get a couple of bolts started and check and make sure the gasket is where its supposed to be as the bolts were being put in. I never used any power tools as I don't have any of the whimsy little drive guns, I use what looks like a small screw driver handle with shank that has a 1/4 drive on the end of it and added an extension and those bolts use a 10 mm socket as some times power tools can bite a person if used on delicate parts ( torqued to 80 inch pounds ). Also should note as per rules around pulling the add plug out first, yes I cracked that loose with a 8 mm Allen bit socket on a 3/8 slim head ratchet as there isn't a lot of room to work with there either due to the exhaust on the right side of the trans.    I already had delco ULV oil on hand and of course the quart bottle pump wasn't made for those small cap threads so I had to use some other containers that the pump would fit and keep transferring oil over into them so a wasted exercise there but indeed the small pump did work just fine as ULV oil is thin and easy to pump in summer time weather. I put in 9.5 quarts as per prior minimum recommendation and yes that cut it pretty close as once I had the truck ( off the jack stands so its level ) and the trans oil up to 167f , about 6 ounces came out but a level kit or what have you could throw it off just enough that it wouldn't be enough oil so probably that 10 quarts is a good amount to put in so one doesn't have to add more oil as when its hot I sure wouldn't want to be adding oil so would have to let the exhaust cool. All I do for warming up the transmission is sit there with it in park and rev it to about 2500 rpm and it takes close to 20 minutes to get it up to that lower limit of 167f, weird how it will warm up more doing that then by driving it, I am not real keen on power braking the truck to get the temp up there and don't seem to have to either. By the way I only have 9000 miles on the truck so probably not a very good payback on doing it that soon and the magnets had such a minor thin layer of fines on them so that was good to see and the color of the oil was a darker red then new oil but still looked very good as it should and I've not done any towing with it so its been living a pretty easy life so far. The filter is made in such a way that its next to impossible to pull out the filter media but there certainly was some fines showing up there which makes sense give the trans having to break in.    I hadn't really planned on explaining this much of what I had done since there are various instruction videos kicking around or I think so, as the gist of my message as that by fluke or what have you, for some reason my truck has just enough clearance to slip the pan out from the trans. Of course there is no guarantee that other trucks like this in general will also allow the pan to be taken out without messing with the exhaust as I expect its probably a crap shoot if it will or won't, I was just happy to find out that mine would work and avoid all the other struggling and possibly damaging things in the process,     
    • Do you fellas think Fog Lamps would  be a good upgrade for our 2024 2500 HD Custom ? As you probably know it did not come with them ,  Would you put in GM Chevy parts ? Do they get wired up to the switch panel ( Upfitter or whatever the correct terminology is ) on the dash ? Thanks
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...