Jump to content

What have you done to your K2 today?

block8head

By block8head
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 23.1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

RKeeper1
RKeeper1

Hauled this precious cargo home for the first time from the NICU after 40 days!   Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Mileguru
Mileguru

I installed this thingy on the top of my 2017 6.2L. Not really sure what it does, but my truck goes really fast now.  

pgamboa
pgamboa

Found an hour of free time yesterday and installed GM - Illuminated Door Sills. Love the way they look! Of course, made a how to video. The box didn't come with instructions and tried searching he

Posted Images

Amiodynski Enthusiast

Amiodynski

Posted
Posted

Hit 11k miles tonight on my way home f27dbf3ec71be847496769da56eb9234.jpg

chuckl1218 Senior Enthusiast

chuckl1218

Posted
Posted (edited)

man i feel dumb being the only person spent more than 10 monutes on this damn thing

Whats this pointy piece its in the way2ro2n1l.jpg

I go to push in and its hittin crap and no place for it to sink in or a slot for it

Did the stock trim piece have that "guide"? As I recall, it fit into a slot or something as a guide on mine. I did not cut anything on mine - it only took me 10 minutes to do this mod. Edited by chuckl1218
quise2024 Enthusiast

quise2024

Posted
Posted

Yeah there is this packet with 5 pages of pictures... but its not really instructions idk what the hell its saying. I was also beyond frustrated so that didnt help

 

 

2dbjw2e.jpg

2qc1c21.jpg

1z4a1oz.jpg

chuckl1218 Senior Enthusiast

chuckl1218

Posted
Posted

So what I did was: I aligned the Assist Handle Assembly with the pilar similar to the original trim. Then inserted the bottom edge "integral locator pin (x)" into the dash. Once this was positioned, the "integral clip (y)" would align to a slot in the pilar. Then I pressed the top of the Assist Handle Assembly toward the pilar. At this point, the bolt holes lined up, so I installed the bolts and bolt covers...done.

 

I hope this helps.

quise2024 Enthusiast

quise2024

Posted
Posted

the problem was that point piece, i got everything else 75% of the way done. There just wasnt anywhere for that piece to go so its pressing against the frame. I pushed hard a cpl times but really didnt do anything.

 

The way you described is about what i did besides putting in the bolts. Im sure once im relaxed and less frustrated with it I can figure it out

Victor Ferreira Enthusiast

Victor Ferreira

Posted
Posted

That piece fit right into a circular hole which is BELOW the black airbag tether for the original thing. If you want a clean install with zero cutting, you have to pry the black tether out. It's hard, because it's tough, I had to stick a screwdriver below it and apply a lot of force. But if you do that, everything fits just dandy.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

JimmyVal Enthusiast

JimmyVal

Posted
Posted

Added GMC caliper covers

Ron,

 

Like the covers. Where did you get them?

 

Thanks...

Victor Ferreira Enthusiast

Victor Ferreira

Posted
Posted (edited)

Also, I just finished installing an Airaid MIT. Looking forward to seeing if it makes a difference.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Hisdem
ron87 Enthusiast

ron87

Posted
Posted

Ron,

 

Like the covers. Where did you get them?

 

Thanks...

I got them from carid.com. They have red and black ones. They have some engraved with GMC or Denali. Or you own custom message.

Hozer Enthusiast

Hozer

Posted
Posted

Also, I just finished installing an Airaid MIT. Looking forward to seeing if it makes a difference.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Keep us posted on that. I'm curious as well.

SouthernSilveradoGuy85 Senior Enthusiast

SouthernSilveradoGuy85

Posted
Posted

Also, I just finished installing an Airaid MIT. Looking forward to seeing if it makes a difference.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Keep us posted on that. I'm curious as well.

 

 

I don't know if it's really the MIT or my head messing with me, but it does feel a tad more alive I guess you could say. Seems like I don't have to push the throttle as far. Again it could just be my mind playing tricks on me. I still have the stock filter so I don't think it did much of anything.

 

I didn't buy it for performance anyways. I got it to make it easier to get to things and to clean up the engine bay.

Victor Ferreira Enthusiast

Victor Ferreira

Posted
Posted

 

 

 

 

I don't know if it's really the MIT or my head messing with me, but it does feel a tad more alive I guess you could say. Seems like I don't have to push the throttle as far. Again it could just be my mind playing tricks on me. I still have the stock filter so I don't think it did much of anything.

 

I didn't buy it for performance anyways. I got it to make it easier to get to things and to clean up the engine bay.

I got it to see if I get an MPG increase. I've driven only 70 miles so far, so not enough to test that. But I have noticed that in regular acceleration, in the 1000-2700 RPM range that the engine sounds a LOT more like a V8 should. That smooth roar is now there.

 

Even if I don't see an improvement in mileage, the MIT was worth it just for that sound and how much easier it made it to access the engine bay.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

SouthernSilveradoGuy85 Senior Enthusiast

SouthernSilveradoGuy85

Posted
Posted

I got it to see if I get an MPG increase. I've driven only 70 miles so far, so not enough to test that. But I have noticed that in regular acceleration, in the 1000-2700 RPM range that the engine sounds a LOT more like a V8 should. That smooth roar is now there.

 

Even if I don't see an improvement in mileage, the MIT was worth it just for that sound and how much easier it made it to access the engine bay.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

The MPGs seems the same. As for the sound, it's hard for me to tell since I put the MIT on after getting the exhaust done and the exhaust is aggressive. I want to think it helped a tad with throttle response, but like I said, my mind could be playing tricks on me.

 

I'm hoping one day I can get some headers and a tune.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • James Beyer
      Trading 7.3 (Godzilla) for G.M.C gas

      By James Beyer · Posted

      Congratulations Isttype, on your gmc. Really like my 2024 2500hd sle doublecab now with 85,500 miles.  I checked the oil today at 4800 miles since last oil change and barely reading on the stick.  I don't care if GM says it's Acceptable adding a quart every 2000 miles because that is 100% BS, It is not a 1966 Harley Shovelhead! Sounds like it's setting up a future failure like I had with my 1500 6.2l. Other than oil consumption problems, I really like the 6.6l gas and 10 speed is really nice.  Towed a light 4000 pound trailer last week and averaged 14 mpg.  I was pretty impressive that a 7300 pound gas truck did 14mpg towing, Later-
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Long Term Cold Cycle Limited Testing   Back to the 1990's and XOM's million mile test. Since then there have been others and there will be more. Schaeffer's, AMSOIL to name two. Of these Schaeffer's is the stand alone which I will explain in a bit later.    http://papers.sae.org/600190/:   http://papers.sae.org/850215/:   Up to 75% of  engine wear occurs on cold starts. These two links (above) provide the technical reasons for engine wear. In a nut shell, and by a large margin, cylinder wear is what takes out most motors and even with a pre-oiling system that part of the engine is dry enough on cold starts and cold warm up to pierce Stribeck.   So when you put a motor, or a car, on a dyno for a million miles stopping only for oil changes, (yes fuel is uninterrupted) or break down maintenance, you are depriving the test of the most important part of it's wear cycle. Yes a million is then a pretty easy walk even for a mineral oil under those conditions.    How about cleanliness during the long test cycles? Same thing. Varnishes that stick rings and insulate parts are laid down by repetitive 'heat cycles'. It's the cool down the precipitates the varnishes. These long runs also hinder acidic attack caused by cold start richness and less than optimal cold start ring sealing. They hinder water formation and enhance breathing of the crankcase; the petri dish of acid formation, the first step in sludge formation, amalgamation and precipitation. These motors are also monitored and controlled for water and oil temperatures to within the "normal operating range".      https://www.swri.org/sites/default/files/sequence-iiih-test.pdf Note the test sequence in some boutique oils literature for testing, API IIIH, is not the standard used for the ILSAC G7 testing. Does that mean it is irrelevant? No, not as used. As used as a 'visual guide' it makes it's point. The G7 weighted piston deposit minimum is lower.      Back to Schaeffer's. That was a cyclical test of an engine in fleet service and not a dyno mule and if you saw the video it was not mirror clean but wear was low.    There are oils like BioSyn and other 'Renewable" source oils that taught cleanliness and have proven themselves in fleet testing. Havoline an other example.    The newest ILSAC G-7 test prioritize cleanliness, LSPI mitigation and fuel economy OVER WEAR. In comparison Porsche C30 Specification Verses ILSAC G-7 Specification below:      Some will balk that this graph isn't apples to apples and I will challenge that in that this graph represent the SPECIFICATION and not the any One Oil Performance.   It is absolutely possible to minimize wear, maximize cleanliness and mitigate LSPI etc., It just isn't cheap and currently I see none that are not walking toward profit over performance.     
    • asilverblazer
      Intermittent no-code issues on 2022.5+ V8 trucks — what did the shop fail to capture?

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I don't think you will need a split, separate product, etc., the OBD port should be able to deliver everything you need. Since your device would be plugged into it all the time, it wouldn't miss anything.    Hardware in this case will be the easiest part of your project - ELM 327 devices will already deliver all the data you need. Reporting/software is where your advantage/marketability is.
    • Coastie05
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      I do too. I’ll never be stuck again 😂
    • KARNUT
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By KARNUT · Posted

      It has happened to me a few times. I carry a jumpstart-tire inflator with me.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...