Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone replaced just the muffler, not a full system or cat back? I may be getting old, but I like the quiet cab. However if I have the windows down, I am all about listening to the exhaust. Just wondering if a muffler only would be a happy medium?

I did with a Flowmaster Super 40. The only time its "loud" in is really slow acceleration, like if you were in traffic

 

But other than that, its not loud in cab at all. It certainly makes a rumble inside the oarking garage. No "drone" what so ever cruising at highway speeds. You can hear it if u switch to v4 around 30 mph but nothin that annoys me

 

 

I made this sound comparison to stock back when i first got it

 

[Video]

  • Like 1
Posted

 

Did you do the rears as well, or is it even possible? I sent you a PM.

I am going back to where I got these this weekend. I plan to get another strip and place them on the cross bar under the seats. I will just quick splice in and do what I need to. Should be nice when finished.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Nothing big but I replaced the front Weathertech mats with Husky X-Act mats.

Is there a special reason why? I have the weathertech laser cut ones and figured they were pretty similar. I just have purchased weathertech in the past

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Kinda like Chevy is the best and good looking trucks!! LOL

I'd definitely agree with that.

 

What's funny to me is that your Seadoos make more horse power than my 05 5.3L did.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Edited by crafferty
  • Like 1
Posted

Is there a special reason why? I have the weathertech laser cut ones and figured they were pretty similar. I just have purchased weathertech in the past

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

There was nothing wrong with the weathertechs just got tired of them being slippery when wet. I kept the rear weathertech mat in.

Posted

Is there a special reason why? I have the weathertech laser cut ones and figured they were pretty similar. I just have purchased weathertech in the past

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

 

Some people like Weathertech, some like Husky. They are very similar mats. I have been a Weathertech fan for quite a while and swear by them. Never had an issue with them. I think it comes to preference. I've never had Husky's, but from what I see, the only thing they have that my Weathertech's don't is a lip on the edge to prevent the water from going towards the door.

Posted (edited)

There was nothing wrong with the weathertechs just got tired of them being slippery when wet. I kept the rear weathertech mat in.

Weathertech's suck now days. Brands like Husky have surpassed them especially in terms of fit and finish.

 

 

 

 

Some people like Weathertech, some like Husky. They are very similar mats. I have been a Weathertech fan for quite a while and swear by them. Never had an issue with them. I think it comes to preference. I've never had Husky's, but from what I see, the only thing they have that my Weathertech's don't is a lip on the edge to prevent the water from going towards the door.

Huskys also fit along the edges where as weathertechs curl away. After owning both now, I'll never waste my money on weathertechs again. Don't get me wrong weathertechs do a fine job, husky just does it better.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Edited by crafferty
  • Like 3
Posted

Weathertech's suck now days. Brands like Husky have surpassed them especially in terms of fit and finish.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Agreed. Love my husky mats.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  • Like 1
Posted

Rear Bumper swap:

 

Before:

f2575ea87953e187579e1f31a85e3bef.jpg

 

After:

1a4f3bcdd32c992b1abf9d28528540ac.jpg

 

This is my 2nd time removing the rear bumper. Went much faster with my "bed lifter". LOL. About 1.5 hrs.

 

230dc1c01cf047c18e1a3cb7d345ea16.jpg

 

Note to self (or anyone swapping rear bumpers):

 

If you have park assist sensors, make sure you install the outer sensors BEFORE installing the bumper back. There is no access to put them in after the fact, unless you have hands the size of a toddler. I needed to paint the sensors and thought I could put the bumper back and the sensors later. Nope!

 

3rd times a charm?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted

Nice. Do you have covers on the taillights as well?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

No not yet. Not sure what I want to do yet.

Posted (edited)

 

Rear Bumper swap:

 

Before:

f2575ea87953e187579e1f31a85e3bef.jpg

 

After:

1a4f3bcdd32c992b1abf9d28528540ac.jpg

 

This is my 2nd time removing the rear bumper. Went much faster with my "bed lifter". LOL. About 1.5 hrs.

 

230dc1c01cf047c18e1a3cb7d345ea16.jpg

 

Note to self (or anyone swapping rear bumpers):

 

If you have park assist sensors, make sure you install the outer sensors BEFORE installing the bumper back. There is no access to put them in after the fact, unless you have hands the size of a toddler. I needed to paint the sensors and thought I could put the bumper back and the sensors later. Nope!

 

3rd times a charm?

 

Looks sweet! I feel myself leaning to the dark side...lol

Looks like you'll be putting those rear sensors to use as well!

Edited by Bmz72
  • Like 1
Posted

No not yet. Not sure what I want to do yet.

Same here. I don't want it to be permanently on or hard to remove bc if I PCS to a new state with different laws it will be a pain.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...