Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Very cool, instructions?

There are many ways to achieve this. The tap is made with the dome lamp circuit. Then ground is essentially anywhere you can find a bolt in the frame.

 

I ran a wire to the same spot where the factory dome lamp lands in the X61A Junction Box. I cut the end of the existing factory wire and re-crimpped with the 2nd wire and re-inserted.

 

82daaafd4d65c62153ccd255e0844be4.jpg

 

4915ff3abd3d40d051b91dacc95cc996.jpg

 

I have yet to finish this project... as I'm still torn on the LED light I want to use.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by pgamboa
Posted

I did the bumper swap today and holy crap was that way more in depth than I though it would be. Took me 5.5 hours including cleanup. That being said the first hour was me trying to remove all the trim and what not while leaving the bumper on the truck. The new bumper I got was missing all the trim and the frame mounting brackets so I thought maybe I could do it without removing those since all that trim had to come off anyways. An hour in I called it and pulled the bumper which was nothing short of a nasty job. Then I spent about three hours removing all the trim and steps and such and reinstalling it on the new bumper. After I got the last bolt in I went to plug up the wiring harness for the tag lights and realized it had got wedged between the receiver hitch and the bumper so I had to unbolt the entire thing to drop the receiver down far enough to work it around so I could plug it in and that was the last hour. Needless to say I am expert at removing the rear bumper now. I also have never seen a receiver with 12 points of contact before. That thing has to one of the stoutest receivers I have ever seen. I am going to get some plastic plugs for the park assist holes. Not the best look but its better than chrome

IMG_3418.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I did the bumper swap today and holy crap was that way more in depth than I though it would be. Took me 5.5 hours including cleanup. That being said the first hour was me trying to remove all the trim and what not while leaving the bumper on the truck. The new bumper I got was missing all the trim and the frame mounting brackets so I thought maybe I could do it without removing those since all that trim had to come off anyways. An hour in I called it and pulled the bumper which was nothing short of a nasty job. Then I spent about three hours removing all the trim and steps and such and reinstalling it on the new bumper. After I got the last bolt in I went to plug up the wiring harness for the tag lights and realized it had got wedged between the receiver hitch and the bumper so I had to unbolt the entire thing to drop the receiver down far enough to work it around so I could plug it in and that was the last hour. Needless to say I am expert at removing the rear bumper now. I also have never seen a receiver with 12 points of contact before. That thing has to one of the stoutest receivers I have ever seen. I am going to get some plastic plugs for the park assist holes. Not the best look but its better than chrome

IMG_3418.jpg

I know this feeling all to well. Just did this myself last week. I found removing the entire bumper together was much easier. Removed (4) bolts holding the bed to the frame. Using a 24" piece of 2x4 and factory jack made the bumper removal very easy. Takes me about 30 minutes to remove. Also, since my truck didn't come with factory running boards, I had black plugs (after installing the running boards) that I was able to use to plug the sensor holes for my front bumper.

 

c40086e9d5639879af89a2c13dc4be31.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by pgamboa
Posted

I know this feeling all to well. Just did this myself last week. I found removing the entire bumper together was much easier. Removed (4) bolts holding the bed to the frame. Using a 24" piece of 2x4 and factory jack made the bumper removal very easy. Takes me about 30 minutes to remove. Also, since my truck didn't come with factory running boards, I had black plugs (after installing the running boards) that I was able to use to plug the sensor holes for my front bumper.

 

c40086e9d5639879af89a2c13dc4be31.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I had help and had somebody lift up on the bed after removing the same 4 bolts and it came right out. Since I dont have the park assist I thought about getting some 1" LED lights to install in the holes. I found some white, amber, or red. Thought it might be neat to get red and wire in with the brake lights, or amber and have them on with the tail lights, or white and have them on with the reverse lights. I dont see them adding much to the light output of my already LED reverse lights but it might look cool with the white. I dont know really any ideas? also do you have pics with the plugs in your bumper? That might aid in my decision.

  • Like 1
Posted

d601bebdcf79ddc4412d068cec4b404b.jpg23586404cf1e89e1dacd886205a63613.jpg

 

Did a full detail today. Used a clay bar and this new sealant called F11 Topcoat. The F11 is probably the best stuff I have used so far on my truck. Very expensive but worth it.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 10
Posted

d601bebdcf79ddc4412d068cec4b404b.jpg23586404cf1e89e1dacd886205a63613.jpg

 

Did a full detail today. Used a clay bar and this new sealant called F11 Topcoat. The F11 is probably the best stuff I have used so far on my truck. Very expensive but worth it.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That is one SHINY truck! Very nice!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

i finally had a little time this weekend to 'play'... or as i tell my wife... have time for some 'truck-therapy'!

 

i wired in my police scanner/external speaker. i pulled one the of cigarette lighters and inserted a plug from oznium.com. it works great!! i used the existing power from the lighter as it's 'always on power'

 

IMG_5694_zpsd8rlvrzf.jpg

 

 

 

i added an LED to the front of the cup holder to give a little light to the lower part of the center console. it's wired to the same circuit as some other LED's that i have on a dimmer

 

IMG_5673_zpsznk9kjfl.jpg

 

 

before...

IMG_8155-BEFORE_zpswwykss4a.jpg

 

after...

IMG_5702_zpssqvhzeqq.jpg

 

 

and i installed some interior trim piping (i went with chrome for now but will likely switch to blue at some point) and also added some 'finger tip grips' in the doors to hopefully reduce the finger prints on the doors

IMG_5688_zpsbqqbun1o.jpg

Edited by bc-chris
  • Like 2
Posted
washed and waxed on this beautiful day

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Looks great Zrodie[emoji106][emoji106]

thanks! First time ever waxing a vehicle by hand. I think I'm going to go out and by me a buffer next time lol

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Little late in posting but I got my lift installed, tuned by BBP and just installed new tow mirrors this weekend with harnesses from pgamboa.

 

post-160491-0-71696500-1491825046_thumb.jpg
post-160491-0-93840300-1491824983_thumb.jpg
post-160491-0-97700600-1491824982_thumb.jpg
post-160491-0-93003500-1491824981_thumb.jpg

post-160491-0-93003500-1491824981_thumb.jpg

post-160491-0-97700600-1491824982_thumb.jpg

post-160491-0-93840300-1491824983_thumb.jpg

post-160491-0-71696500-1491825046_thumb.jpg

post-160491-0-93003500-1491824981_thumb.jpg

post-160491-0-97700600-1491824982_thumb.jpg

post-160491-0-93840300-1491824983_thumb.jpg

post-160491-0-71696500-1491825046_thumb.jpg

post-160491-0-93003500-1491824981_thumb.jpg

post-160491-0-97700600-1491824982_thumb.jpg

post-160491-0-93840300-1491824983_thumb.jpg

post-160491-0-71696500-1491825046_thumb.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted

Just like everyone else, finally got to wash and h2o gloss and guard from Adams. Just a quick job, but it was so dirty. Friday was 40* and 4" of snow from a storm. Yesterday was 70*+ and beautiful. Man, Ohio sucks.

 

B2653911-FE33-436C-94A7-B5C1C5F4C64D_zps

  • Like 3
Posted

Dropped mine off for PDR [emoji30]. It'll be at least a week before I see her again.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Dropped mine off for PDR [emoji30]. It'll be at least a week before I see her again.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wonder what kind of mods I can do on my Ford Focus rental [emoji23][emoji23].

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...