Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

if i get them one at a time I'm assuming its better to get the rear one first ? I'm gonna try to get them both at the same time but if not get the rear first ? if its not to much of a pain in the ass to change the setting is it better to start at the #3 setting for both or start at #1 to see witch i prefer ?

 

Most definitely do the rear first. Setting change isn't too bad, just remove the lower end link (nut/bolt) loosen the jam nut and extend the end link and re-install on the desired setting. The nuts are concave lock nuts, so I would just start at setting #2.

 

Only reason I went with #3 from the jump was I know how I like my rides to handle and don't mind a stiffer ride for better handling. The stiffest setting is just too much for running the factory front bar.

Posted

Saturday finally after a few months shined up my Chevy , next on the list for spring cleaning the Airaid filter/tube and installing new wipers. Also need to clean out the gunk inside the rims and due for service

post-132385-0-98610100-1492351652_thumb.png

 

post-132385-0-98610100-1492351652_thumb.png

post-132385-0-98610100-1492351652_thumb.png

post-132385-0-98610100-1492351652_thumb.png

Posted

 

Most definitely do the rear first. Setting change isn't too bad, just remove the lower end link (nut/bolt) loosen the jam nut and extend the end link and re-install on the desired setting. The nuts are concave lock nuts, so I would just start at setting #2.

 

Only reason I went with #3 from the jump was I know how I like my rides to handle and don't mind a stiffer ride for better handling. The stiffest setting is just too much for running the factory front bar.

 

i also don't mind a stiffer ride at all i want the best handling possible ... everything on my truck is stock suspension whatever comes with the Z71 off road 4x4 package since its stock front it can't handle #3 setting ? I'm a little confused do you mean i can't put it on the #3 setting or you mean i can but the front can't handle it and it'll break the front or something else ? i want the truck to handle as good as possible at the end of the day i don't care how hard of a ride it is. thanks for all your help i appreciate it

Posted

 

 

 

i also don't mind a stiffer ride at all i want the best handling possible ... everything on my truck is stock suspension whatever comes with the Z71 off road 4x4 package since its stock front it can't handle #3 setting ? I'm a little confused do you mean i can't put it on the #3 setting or you mean i can but the front can't handle it and it'll break the front or something else ? i want the truck to handle as good as possible at the end of the day i don't care how hard of a ride it is. thanks for all your help i appreciate it

With setting 3 in the rear and stock sway bar up front the truck "oversteers" considerably. Not a good thing in slick conditions or with an inexperienced driver. An aftermarket sway bar up front should even things out, still not 100% if setting 3 is the right answer for even that combo.

 

I am just going to dial back to setting two, drive it and see how it is. I think I'm going to pass on the front sway bar, considering I'm on 33" all terrains on 17s.... and it's not a corvette

 

 

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Posted

With setting 3 in the rear and stock sway bar up front the truck "oversteers" considerably. Not a good thing in slick conditions or with an inexperienced driver. An aftermarket sway bar up front should even things out, still not 100% if setting 3 is the right answer for even that combo.

 

I am just going to dial back to setting two, drive it and see how it is. I think I'm going to pass on the front sway bar, considering I'm on 33" all terrains on 17s.... and it's not a corvette

 

 

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

How's it ride over bumps compared to stock?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Haven't noticed much of a difference in actual ride quality, the sway bar still allows for normal travel.

 

If you were off-roading sway bars are counter productive to suspension travel but the most travel my pavement princess sees is potholes.

Posted (edited)

I removed the side moldings, nothing crazy but a subtle change. In case anyone who doesn't know how to debadge is interested I'll tell you the steps just in case. 1) wash the area, 2) use heat gun and fishing line to remove the badge 3) quickly wash area again 4) use 3M eraser wheel and drill to take off the adhesive 5) use rapid remover to clean up the remaining adhesive residue 6) clay bar and polish 7) seal or wax

5f4f1ffc6620dfbddd23311bf332d83b.jpg

Also, swapped my oil AFE filter for my intake with a dry filter and swapped my cabin air filter with a k&n. Nothing super exciting. Hope everyone's having a good Easter

af3c47e93e446766a7452c1dc298927b.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Abearclaw
  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

When I bought my truck in Feb, I had to finance 'some' of it to take advantage of an extra $2K off, made my first payment last month, and just saw the check I sent in to pay it off this month clear, so, I paid my truck off today.. :driving:

Edited by jpinoy
  • Like 6
Posted

When I bought my truck in Feb, I had to finance 'some' of it to take advantage of an extra $2K off, made my first payment last month, and just saw the check I sent in to pay it off this month clear, so, I paid my truck off today.. :driving:

Congratulations! It makes a difference when you own a vehicle that is paid off!

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...