Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I love this kit and have been enjoying thoroughly for a year now, however my question is about under seat storage. Is there any type of bolt on storage that you can find to fit with the sub, without having to cut 1/3 of it off?

TIA!

Posted (edited)

I love this kit and have been enjoying thoroughly for a year now, however my question is about under seat storage. Is there any type of bolt on storage that you can find to fit with the sub, without having to cut 1/3 of it off?

TIA!

 

I'm not aware of any other storage from GM, possibly some after market bins though. I took a grinder & cut mine off at the sub, then I cut the very end off of the piece I cut off, matched it to the bin as close as possible, ground & cut it so it fit the best it could, used some 60 second epoxy to attach them together, then caulked the inside and filled the small gaps on the outside with some bronze silicone. I then drilled a hole in the rear lip of the bin and zip tied it to the seat belt tower next to the sub and used the GM supplied mounting bracket for the bin on the drivers side of the rear seat bracket. It took about an hr., but it looks good and tidy all tied together. I can take a pic if you'd like to see, but that was my remedy!

 

P.S. Love the color of your truck! :thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

Edited by mtbadbob
Posted

 

I'm not aware of any other storage from GM, possibly some after market bins though. I took a grinder & cut mine off at the sub, then I cut the very end off of the piece I cut off, matched it to the bin as close as possible, ground & cut it so it fit the best it could, used some 60 second epoxy to attach them together, then caulked the inside and filled the small gaps on the outside with some bronze silicone. I then drilled a hole in the rear lip of the bin and zip tied it to the seat belt tower next to the sub and used the GM supplied mounting bracket for the bin on the drivers side of the rear seat bracket. It took about an hr., but it looks good and tidy all tied together. I can take a pic if you'd like to see, but that was my remedy!

 

P.S. Love the color of your truck! :thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

Hey thanks for the info! If it's not too much trouble, yes I'd like a picture of what you did.

 

P.S. Best lookin' color on a truck if I don't say so myself. ;)

Posted

Looks good man. Thanks for the pictures as that helps me better visualize.

  • Like 1
Posted

I have a complete Kicker VSS for 2014 Double cab for sale. Sub woofer and digital processor. All wires included. Used for 3 months. Sounds great. Highly recommend.

 

I traded my '14 double cab in for a "16 crew cab.

Posted

I have a complete Kicker VSS for 2014 Double cab for sale. Sub woofer and digital processor. All wires included. Used for 3 months. Sounds great. Highly recommend.

 

I traded my '14 double cab in for a "16 crew cab.

Is that just the sub or with the amp as well?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

What's your price? I sent you a message earlier today.

Posted

I just recently purchased and installed the PowerStage(Sound Gate) full system for my 2015 GMC Sierra HD Crew Cab and have a small issue. When ever I start the truck there is the typical 3-4 chimes but now since the PowerStage install the 2nd & 3rd chime is distorted. It’s a small issue but an annoying one and everyone who jumps into my truck always asks what’s wrong with the chime.

Anyone else experience this issue or have any idea why it does this? If i leave the lights on or the key in the ignition to get the continuous dinging it sounds normal. It's only when i start the truck that it is distorted.

Posted

I just recently purchased and installed the PowerStage(Sound Gate) full system for my 2015 GMC Sierra HD Crew Cab and have a small issue. When ever I start the truck there is the typical 3-4 chimes but now since the PowerStage install the 2nd & 3rd chime is distorted. It’s a small issue but an annoying one and everyone who jumps into my truck always asks what’s wrong with the chime.

Anyone else experience this issue or have any idea why it does this? If i leave the lights on or the key in the ignition to get the continuous dinging it sounds normal. It's only when i start the truck that it is distorted.

 

Mine does the same thing. I have learned to just live with it. I dont think there is any fix for it. The chimes also get louder than the 1st one or 2.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi all - my current truck is a 2022.5 1500 High Country 3.0. I bought the truck used last year. After doing some digging, I noticed that my truck's software is stuck on the original build from 2022. I have no available software updates. I talked to my dealer about this and they recommended not trying to force an update since the 36,000 mile warranty is expired. This is a big bummer since there have been many major releases since that have fixed small issues and improved speed/usability.   For reference, the current software build number is: full_gminfo37_gb-user 10 W158E-W164.4.2-QIH22B-563.3 158 release-keys Has anyone had a similar experience? Should I just forget about it and move on, or try a different dealer?
    • Sure. Buy it for me 🤣
    • Using zip ties but 2-3 they snap due to sharp edges. Just using a shoestring. Last longer. 🤣
    • I ordered the Snap On...waiting for it to come in later this week or early next week.   New front cover, new crank seal and new balancer are on. Water pump, pulley, fan, hoses, and plastics reinstalled. I can move forward knowing all my timing marks are dead on and the front engine is hopefully sealed better than it was. Take 2 with the water pump...trying high temp thread sealer on the lower bolts.   Rebuilt injector and new-new regulator is in, it looks like new. Top intake reassembled and all the bits are reconnected and snugged down.   Thinking about knock sensors again, I located both of mine and, there's your problem, Francis... The driver's side one is broke, plastic is bashed in, part of the wire is bare, and it appears to have been damaged like that for a long time. I saw the wire but didn't think anything of it. The knock sensor might not be my pulled timing issue, but it sure looks suspect. It must still be conducting, otherwise I'd expect a CEL. But perhaps with its sacred crystal inside exposed, jilted and dirty, maybe it's sending mixed signals. So I'm waiting for one of those and a new pigtail to come in. Pass side sensor looks good, except for the spark plug wire resting on it (!). The plug wires are healthy so it shouldn't be causing an issue, but I separated them and added zip ties to nearby looms to keep everything well apart.   So, I'm down to installing a knock sensor AND, oh, replacing the exhaust and cat. I actually think that's going to be fairly easy, it's all bolt-together, all new stuff from Walker is laid out on the shop floor ready to go. Hopefully have this thing on the road again for the weekend.   My luck? It will still be leaking oil, coolant, pulled timing, intermittent CEL for running rich, or it probably won't run at all -- because that's how this project has gone.   I've never worked on a vehicle so ...hurt? ...cursed? in my life. Everything has been effed with SO HARD, but I think...knock on wood...I've managed to undo all the backyard stuff and we're almost reset back to "just" an 80k mile, 30 year old Blazer.
    • Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...