Jump to content

wornout key fob

daveor
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

bdbake01
bdbake01

Do you run through burning houses in the evenings as a hobby or something??? Wow

scott19677
scott19677

SOOOO... Your wife washed and dried your keys in the laundry huh?

daveor
daveor

I lift very few heavy things,, retired,,, so I lift a beer now and then and maybe a fishing pole. It is mainly just the buttons that are sinking in. Not sure I have seen a case for a fob and hate hav

Posted Images

daveor Enthusiast

daveor

Posted
  • Author
Posted

What about bug spray? Deet will break down plastics/rubber like nothing else.

I thought about that,, can't recall using any bug spray,,, am very careful about deek as I have a high end digtal slr camera and I know what it does to plastics. Guess I will just have to find one and have my dealer reprogram it,, unless I can figure out how to take the card of of this one and put in a new case.

daveor Enthusiast

daveor

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You never have cleaned or wiped it down with anything at all?

nope,,, wondering,, looking at your pic of your truck,, does the GMC not have the door handles on the outside of the 14 double cabs like the chevy does?

FormerFordGuy Enthusiast

FormerFordGuy

Posted
Posted

I had a co worker that could ruin hand tools in a matter of weeks. A new shiny chrome snap on ratchet or wrench would turn black and tarnished after he used it for a while. He was t a sweaty guy either. Just a weird body chemistry I guess. It was crazy.

 

I would order a new one on eBay and put the old guts in the new body so you do t have to get it programmed. It's cake.

  • Like 1
txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted

nope,,, wondering,, looking at your pic of your truck,, does the GMC not have the door handles on the outside of the 14 double cabs like the chevy does?

 

 

That's a pic of my '04 that I still drive also. I've got a 2014 truck for my work. Just never have posted a pic of it yet.

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted

These key fobs are obnoxiously large and built like garbage. No doubt GM saved a few bucks going with crappier key fobs on these trucks. Maybe the OP abused it a little more than the average 2014 owner but at the end of the day, they're garbage and I don't think it's entirely his fault it looks that way. I expect the buttons on the steering wheel to look like crap too in a couple years. The steering controls on the GMT900's were a much better design as was the key fobs. It will interesting to see if they change on the 2015 trucks.

  • Like 1
daveor Enthusiast

daveor

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I had a co worker that could ruin hand tools in a matter of weeks. A new shiny chrome snap on ratchet or wrench would turn black and tarnished after he used it for a while. He was t a sweaty guy either. Just a weird body chemistry I guess. It was crazy.

 

I would order a new one on eBay and put the old guts in the new body so you do t have to get it programmed. It's cake.

How do you move the card from one to the other,, do the chrome pieces pop off then the 2 halves come apart? Thanks

diannabill Enthusiast

diannabill

Posted
Posted

I have a 2014 LTZ 1500,, About 21,000 miles on it.. The buttons on the key fob are pretty much trashed,, Key is either in my pocket or the truck,, My dealer said they would not even submit it to GM for warranty, because they said they would be told it was abused,, If pushing the buttons to lock and unlock are abuse, I must have a different idea of what abuse is.. Has anyone else had their fob wear like this. I was told by the dealer it would be over $200 for the fob and programing.. way more than I want to spend on a remote. attachicon.gifDSCF1154fob.jpg

You got two fobs didn't you? What does the other one look like?

daveor Enthusiast

daveor

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You got two fobs didn't you? What does the other one look like?

It is still brand new,,never been used,, will prob get it out and use it,, put this one away for just in case.

daveor Enthusiast

daveor

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Do you have a dog? Looks like a dog used it for a chew toy!

nope,,, no dog..or cat or kids at home. LOL

FormerFordGuy Enthusiast

FormerFordGuy

Posted
Posted

How do you move the card from one to the other,, do the chrome pieces pop off then the 2 halves come apart? Thanks

I just have an LT so mine doesn't have the chrome pieces. I can just pry the two halves apart on mine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Aimatdeer
      Ac not keeping up

      By Aimatdeer · Posted

      Anyone have any info about backorder time? It's classic 4th of July hot here in ohio.
    • Chuck FB
      Fluid Change Questions

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      There would be one way of determining the quality of the factory oil although probably more than a typical oil lab test, and that would be to draw out some oil from a new truck and send a sample to a lab that could do a more elaborate test of the oil. The issue with too little oil in the diff may not be the lack of lubrication of the diff bearings and gears themselves ( although a lack of oil volume for cooling ) but the wheel bearings because at some point the oil would be too low to properly get onto the spinning axle or fed along the axle tube. That was the claim by the local dealer from a couple of trucks in recent years that had the wheel bearings fail and they figured from lack of sufficient oil due to a severe underfilled diff and some of the bearing material made its way to the diff and it got damaged as well so the axle housings were just replaced on warranty. But your right that if the diff is over filled by whatever margin that it causes more churning of the oil than is desirable and that is no good either and can cause a pinion seal to leak. Also old oil I believe can tend to loose some of its properties like antifoaming and another good reason to change the diff oil every so often. 
    • Z45
      Fluid Change Questions

      By Z45 · Posted

      I would be surprised if the diff's were not filled (with the cheapest gear lube) at the axle factory before being shipped to GM.  If you ever watched them building trucks they install the axles and all suspension parts with the frame upside down and then turn it over before its time to install the engine.     Too much gear lube in a axle can be worse than not enough especially with a lower quality GL where is get whipped up with entrained air (foam)  weakening its ability to lubricate.        
    • MORSNO
      Oil Consumption

      By MORSNO · Posted

      This is the 6.6 gasser section of the forum, you should either delete or modify your previous post as it is misleading for anyone looking for factual information on their 6.6 gas engine.
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Well....I've done my first intake gasket. Probably wrong, but...we'll see?   Ultra black on the china walls and 1/4" up onto the sides of the intake gaskets. Permatex High Tack (couldn't find Gaskachinch) on the head side of the intake gasket. I read wrong and it says you're supposed to put it on the mating surface of the head, not the gasket. Hoping it's like a PB&J sandwich where it doesn't matter what side the PB goes on so long as there's jelly. That crap is messy/sticky and I got a dab or two on the intake port openings, tried to wipe it off. Hopefully it won't be a big deal and will only aid in sealing.   Per instructions I left the intake (top side) of the gasket dry except for a light smear of RTV around the coolant ports. Wiggling the intake in there was a bear but I had help to free me of surrounding wiring/stuff but I was basically able to set it straight down lined up with the bolt holes.   I did not think to wait until the RTV skinned over but there probably was 5-10 minutes while it sat before installing the intake.   Bolts finger tight first. Then, followed the Chilton's manual pattern to snug them to 15 lb-ft.   Waited a little over an hour, and then did the final torque in sequence again to 35 lb-ft.   Yesterday I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and got my new "nut and bolt kit" (fuel lines) installed. Damn GM used security torx on the spider, which I don't have, so I got scammed at the local HW store for an off-brand security Torx bit set.   The new driver's door mirror arrived yesterday, so, there's a chance this thing could be running and road legal tomorrow? I don't want to get my hopes up.   This will be my first time stabbing a distributor, too. Although, lucky me, someone else marked the old distributor for removal previously, I did see that. (Someone's been here before!!). Engine is still at TDC so it *should* be just a matter of transferring the mark to the new dizzy and rotating it into place.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...