Jump to content

Cargo Lights on with Reverse Lights

El Conquistador
 Share

Recommended Posts

fastxr Enthusiast

fastxr

Posted
Posted

I only want the LED's to come on when I turn on the Cargo lights. I want to be able to turn them on manually which the cargo light switch when backing my trailer or when I need someone to dim their brights. So can I just hook them to the #26 spot on the pink plug? Do I still need the diode? Will the cargo light work when in drive or reverse? I have a 2014 SLT.

Which LEDs are you referring to, the ones in the bed or the ones that come on the new style tow mirrors like I was talking about? 2014 1500 and early 15 2500s they will not work when in reverse or drive unless you do the diode mod. They will come on with the cargo lights in park and neutral.

  • Replies 357
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

El Conquistador
El Conquistador

Okay so I was inspired by 2 threads here, one being the fog lights on with high beams, which I did and love. The other is a thread about putting a switch in the bed by the tailgate to turn on the car

Crooks
Crooks

Did you jam it in far enough? She will take it

morrislee
morrislee

Hello,   Good idea, but I took your step little different. I have the puddle light and I tapped into that.     This way, when vehicle is in "run" position, puddle lights and the cargo lights w

Posted Images

Billoti New Member

Billoti

Posted
Posted

I am referring to the LED'S on the mirrors. What you said is what I thought. I am thinking about trying to find a power source that is always on and putting a toggle in so I can turn them off and on anytime I want.

fastxr Enthusiast

fastxr

Posted
Posted

I am referring to the LED'S on the mirrors. What you said is what I thought. I am thinking about trying to find a power source that is always on and putting a toggle in so I can turn them off and on anytime I want.

you could also do as I am and add a toggle switch to the diode in the mod in this thread that would allow you to have the cargo lights (including rear facing mirror leds) turn on with reverse or not via the switch. This would save you trying to find an additional power source.

  • Like 1
fastxr Enthusiast

fastxr

Posted
Posted

Indeed I will update this once I add that but it probably won't be for a month or two as its bloody cold out here right now and my truck doesn't fit in my tiny garage, LOL

jlchavezz1 Enthusiast

jlchavezz1

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hello,

 

Good idea, but I took your step little different. I have the puddle light and I tapped into that.

 

2014-11-26 16.22.17.jpg

 

This way, when vehicle is in "run" position, puddle lights and the cargo lights will be completely off (as would the cargo light switch would too)

 

I also have a overhead canopy light, so it HAS to be off when backing up.

 

I have attached the diagram, REMEMBER, the orientation of the diagram is with the plug out, and the plug end facing you with clip fastener facing up!

 

2014-11-26 09.01.06.png

 

**** TIP****

I have had trouble keeping the leads of the diode in the wire socket, I end up sanding it sharp so I can get it in deeper next to the exposed area of the wire. IT ALSO HELPS if you wiggle the wire to the opposite direction it is leaning on to and insert the leads in that side. Wiggle the wire to the other side allows it to push back and keep the leads of the diode in the pressured position to maintain a solid connection.

Hello I'm trying to connect my puddle lights to my cargo lights with a diode. I cannot see your picture well so could you tell me what is the slot of the puddle lights?

Edited by jlchavezz1
  • 2 weeks later...
morrislee Enthusiast

morrislee

Posted
Posted

Hello I'm trying to connect my puddle lights to my cargo lights with a diode. I cannot see your picture well so could you tell me what is the slot of the puddle lights?

You have got to use the pinout diagram, it is hard to get a right picture with the spaghetti wiring there lol

  • 3 weeks later...
wurgs Senior Enthusiast

wurgs

Posted
Posted

Bump. Plan on doing this and fog light/ high beam diode mod this weekend so might have a couple questions

RobZ71LM7 Enthusiast

RobZ71LM7

Posted
Posted (edited)

I just wired the two together by splicing them with a piece of 18 gauge wire. I have LED's in the cargo and reverse and aux LED rigid knockoff backup lights mounted to my hitch. They all come on in reverse and I can hit the cargo switch when at the boat ramp at night or when tying down at night. The aux lights are powered by a waterproof relay triggered by the cargo light wire in the rear. This lets me avoid adding an aftermarket switch to run my lights and also prevents the battery from running down since the cargo switch will shutoff after 15-20 minutes.

Edited by RobZ71LM7
wurgs Senior Enthusiast

wurgs

Posted
Posted

I just did this today, the reverse lights coming on with the cargo lamp switch. It was pretty easy but the cargo lamp socket was kind of a bugger. I have some diodes left, if anyone wants some just pm me and will send them out.

Crooks Enthusiast

Crooks

Posted
Posted

I just did this today, the reverse lights coming on with the cargo lamp switch. It was pretty easy but the cargo lamp socket was kind of a bugger. I have some diodes left, if anyone wants some just pm me and will send them out.

Use one to do your fogs with high beams

wurgs Senior Enthusiast

wurgs

Posted
Posted

Did that too. I just found a heck of a good deal on Ebay and have 40 left. Thought I'd spread them around a bit

  • Like 1
Amiodynski Enthusiast

Amiodynski

Posted
Posted

Is there a reason not to run a straight wire for this mod?

RobZ71LM7 Enthusiast

RobZ71LM7

Posted
Posted (edited)

Is there a reason not to run a straight wire for this mod?

That's what I did. For some reason my iPhone makes all the LED's look not as white/blue. It's freaking blinding.

 

post-204-0-50062300-1428285762_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-50062300-1428285762_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-50062300-1428285762_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-50062300-1428285762_thumb.jpg

Edited by RobZ71LM7
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      2015 Sierra Denali L86 cyl 5 misfire at idle

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Compression test? Weird noises? Fuel trims?
    • asilverblazer
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I suspect at some point in the near future, the hardware will be free and you pay a subscription to access the vehicle - alldata style.
    • parthery
      BAK MX4 EZ-Lift Install and Review

      By parthery · Posted

      I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
    • KARNUT
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      Thanks not an answer 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      /facepalm

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...