Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

For those of you that used a wire for this mod - what gauge solid wire did you use?

 

I'm assuming you used solid wire to be able to push it in?

 

Or did you just solder tin up some stranded wire?

I used 2 strands of solid cat5 wire twisted

 

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

 

 

only way will be to use an aftermarket switch. Buddy of mine, whom is also a member on the forum, did it on his 1500.

 

you'll need to use a momentary (or latching switch, whichever you prefer) and attach it to a power feed, use a diode to prevent back-feeding from the switch to power, then run the switch and again, diode to the cargo light circuit at the BCM, preventing any back-feeding from the BCM to switch. This should ensure that nothing can be back-fed and fried.

Mike 1220, do you think this technic would work on cargo lights as well?

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Mike 1220, do you think this technic would work on cargo lights as well?

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

 

yep, it will. I haven't tried it myself but see now reason why it wouldn't work. My buddy ultimately attached his to the reverse lights not the cargos, but the same principle should apply. For cargos just wire it the way I described earlier and it should work as you want.

Posted

Quick Question, needing to do this mod and I'm thinking of just using a wire to have them go on in reverse and when i hit cargo lights.

 

The thing is i have factory installed Max Trailer mirrors with the LED lights. will these go on in reverse and when i hit my unlock button?

Posted

Quick Question, needing to do this mod and I'm thinking of just using a wire to have them go on in reverse and when i hit cargo lights.

 

The thing is i have factory installed Max Trailer mirrors with the LED lights. will these go on in reverse and when i hit my unlock button?

If you use a wire, yes they will turn on at night when you click the unlock button. I wouldn't do it with a wire tho, because when you are parked and you click the cargo light button, the rest will power on because in a wire current can flow both ways. That's why everyone is using diodes, power only flows one way.

 

2014 Silverado 2WT CC Summit White 4.3L V6

DROPKICK Edition

IG: jorge_dropkick_rangel

Posted

If you use a wire, yes they will turn on at night when you click the unlock button. I wouldn't do it with a wire tho, because when you are parked and you click the cargo light button, the rest will power on because in a wire current can flow both ways. That's why everyone is using diodes, power only flows one way.

 

2014 Silverado 2WT CC Summit White 4.3L V6

DROPKICK Edition

IG: jorge_dropkick_rangel

 

I figured that would be the case, was hoping they were on a different pin in the harness. I'm not trying to illuminate the entire parking lot overtime i unlock the truck with those things.

 

i just ordered the diodes off eBay. hopefully will have them by the weekend

Posted

 

 

yep, it will. I haven't tried it myself but see now reason why it wouldn't work. My buddy ultimately attached his to the reverse lights not the cargos, but the same principle should apply. For cargos just wire it the way I described earlier and it should work as you want.

I really hate to ask this but is there anyway you could sketch this setup down so it can be understood a little better. My electronics class in college was 30 some years ago and it's all just a little fuzzy to me if you know what I mean.

Kinda of not sure of how to wire the switch.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

I really hate to ask this but is there anyway you could sketch this setup down so it can be understood a little better. My electronics class in college was 30 some years ago and it's all just a little fuzzy to me if you know what I mean.

Kinda of not sure of how to wire the switch.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Sure can. Send me a PM if you don't mind so I can remember to do it later after my test today

 

 

- Mike

IG: @BlackPearl_Edition

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I may have missed it but did anyone figure out how to get the cargo light to come on in drive and reverse on the early 2015s when you push the button. I saw that you can get them to come on with the reverse lights and that seems easy enough but i don't want that much light every time I back up.

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm with Derbaby, someone help us figure out how to get the towing mirror lights and the cargo lights to come on while in Drive without shifting to Neutral.

 

Thank you again to those who've figured out how to get the fog lights to stay on with high beams and the cargo lights with reverse lights, now, just this last missing piece of the puzzle.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

So on a 15, can I do this mod and the reverse lights come on with the cargo light button? My truck will already let me use the cargo lights while in reverse but It would be nice to have the reverse lights come on when parked and loading up the back of the truck.

 

Also, do you guys know if I can change the cargo lights over to led? I changed the reverse lighting to led and like the color and brightness a lot better.

Edited by RhinoGuy
Posted

Yes, RhinoGuy. I that's what the 11 pages of conversation were about.

 

And yes, again, the same bulbs for the reverse lights are in the cargo lights, so change away, as I've done with both.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

If you were to put another diode in the opposite direction, then would it allow the reverse light to come on with the cargo lamps when you turn it on via the cab switch since the 2nd resistor would allow the electricity to flow the opposite way of the original?

 

I am curious becuase I am getting ready to add a VLEDs license plate frame light to add 3500 lumens when in reverse

 

If the second diode idea works, then I can hook up the light to either the cargo or the reverse, if it wouldn't work, then I would rather hook the light to the cargo lamps so I can use the light at night when I use the cargo lamps.

Mike 1220 I was interested to know if running a second diode the other way worked for turning the reverse lamps on via the cargo lamp switch inside the cab. I currently have the diode running the way El Conquistador showed above. This worked for having the cargo lamps activate when the truck was put into reverse. I have LED pods under the back bumper and wanted to be able to turn them on with the switch inside the cab, not just by putting the truck into reverse.

 

Thanks in advance

- John

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 1 Anonymous, 479 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...