Jump to content

Rust under the hood normal?


mrp2004

Recommended Posts

Posted

My rust is better than your rust ! :idiot:

Mine is not only better then yours, it has a mind of its own. It's flaking off because it's sick and tired of all this vibration. The undercoat said it will follow the rust anywhere.

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Yeah, its bad when the rust is abandoning ship. Maybe the rust will run to the Ram's.

Posted

Maybe I can get the truck to vibrate all of the rust off, get a new coat of undercoating and then get the vibration fixed and then it will be like a brand new truck. Oh wait, it is a brand new truck and there's no fix for the vibration or the delayed throttle response, or the goofy shifting, or the brakes dragging, so I guess it's SOL.

Edit: oh, that's right. There's nothing wrong with this truck. It's all normal and operating as designed, within the normal characteristics of the truck as designed by the engineers, or of course it can't be duplicated consistently enough to diagnose so it's "normal". Ding ding ding

Posted

Whats bad is I am working on getting into my THIRD 2014. And the one I picked out is starting to rust already. I figure that is the one thing I could live with. My main concern was checking

for vibration. All the drama is getting old. I kinda feel like fool for even wanting another one. :dupe:

How does that definition of insanity go?

Posted

Whats bad is I am working on getting into my THIRD 2014. And the one I picked out is starting to rust already. I figure that is the one thing I could live with. My main concern was checking

for vibration. All the drama is getting old. I kinda feel like fool for even wanting another one. :dupe:

I agree. Edit: Lol
Posted

 

 

 

 

Yeah, I live in Tennessee.

Ah, yeah, ah, what he said. That's exactly what I was think'n.
Posted

 

 

 

 

Yeah, I live in Tennessee.

 

 

LMAO! How could we ever forget that? Is that REALLY how they say it in TN? Cause we say it a whole lot different up here in MI.

 

That is a CLASSIC!

Posted

The exhaust manifold were rusty when I first took it home with 9 miles on it. Haven't noticed anything else lately. What I figure it's just morning dew that collects under there.

 

The way your title says I was assuming the hood itself was rusty on the bottom and I was confused because the hood is aluminum.

Posted

Yes, and this reply of yours justifies why GM is selling new unpainted differential covers with rust spots on them already in the parts bag. An iron casting , if unpainted will rust of course and other than being visually unappealing, the rust will not hurt anything. But not painting a stamped sheet metal cover that will be visible from behind the truck when installed?

 

In case you do not know, marine cast iron water cooled manifolds are painted after they are cast and machined, and they look a lot better when installed than they would if they were bare metal and got all rusty. So do not give me that crap about "it will rust if it has iron content." Yes I know. Especially when the company is too cheap to have these parts painted.

I get what you are saying, but now you are comparing different application marine and road vehicles, which fresh water boats are never subject to salt, and marine engines typically never get the use that vehicles on roads do.

 

Im not saying your crazy, but your still trolling. With vehicle manufactures its pick and chose, every manufacture has its downfalls, if a manufactures proofed everything against everything vehicles would cost more than most of us could afford. As I said before metal with iron content will rust anything else will corrode to a certain extent, some worse than others. If you live in an area where rust is an issue i suggest undercoating or painting.

Posted

Yes, and this reply of yours justifies why GM is selling new unpainted differential covers with rust spots on them already in the parts bag. An iron casting , if unpainted will rust of course and other than being visually unappealing, the rust will not hurt anything. But not painting a stamped sheet metal cover that will be visible from behind the truck when installed?

 

In case you do not know, marine cast iron water cooled manifolds are painted after they are cast and machined, and they look a lot better when installed than they would if they were bare metal and got all rusty. So do not give me that crap about "it will rust if it has iron content." Yes I know. Especially when the company is too cheap to have these parts painted.

I get what you are saying, but now you are comparing different application marine and road vehicles, which fresh water boats are never subject to salt, and marine engines typically never get the use that vehicles on roads do.

 

Im not saying your crazy, but your still trolling. With vehicle manufactures its pick and chose, every manufacture has its downfalls, if a manufactures proofed everything against everything vehicles would cost more than most of us could afford. As I said before metal with iron content will rust anything else will corrode to a certain extent, some worse than others. If you live in an area where rust is an issue i suggest undercoating or painting.

Posted

I use my boat in salt water, and so do thousands of other boaters here on Florida Atlantic coast. The marine environment that boats see here is brutal. Even small stainless steel fittings corrode and break in sea water after some time, as i experienced on my jet ski reverse cable.

Posted

Again, that has what to do with the original subject? Nothing. Your posts are no more useful than any other form of spam. A cast iron exhaust manifold is rusting...that must mean the 2014 GM's suck.... Grass is green too, does that also mean 2014 GM's suck? Because they're made in China?

Posted

Again, that has what to do with the original subject? Nothing. Your posts are no more useful than any other form of spam. A cast iron exhaust manifold is rusting...that must mean the 2014 GM's suck.... Grass is green too, does that also mean 2014 GM's suck? Because they're made in China?

How about this genius: A cast iron exhaust manifold is rusty because they are too cheap to paint it, if they painted it when made with high temperature resistant paint after it was made, it would not be rusty for a long time.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Folks, Have a great new 2026 WT  (std cab, 2.7/4WD) w/base 40/20/40 mech adj bench "fake buckets"  (with lower and upper center console) heavy vinyl seats.  Overall the seats are very comfortable and the vinyl is heavy and appears less likely to 'split out'. Am very tall (6'5")  + a bad back/osteporosis/former hyperparathyroidism so ease/range of movement is a bit restricted.  The truck rides a bit high and I use a nerf step bar w/my left foot to step in, then I put right foot/leg in, drag my butt in  & get seated.  Worked fine in my 2018 RAM quadCab. But I end up dragging my butt over the left raised sidecushsion area of vinyl seat, and due to texture there's fair amount of traction on slide inward.  (ArmorAll didn't improve.) If the seat were even ~1/2" - 3/4" lower it'd be helpful, but base seats just have the forward/backward underseat bail and the side lever for tilt which really doesn't affect seat height.   I really don't want to 'de-puff' the left side sidecushion forming the  fake 'bucket'. I know one company sells 'seat elevator blocks':  but is there a simple way of lowering the height of the driver seat instead?   Thanks Bill W San Jose  
    • I have a basic 2026 1500 WT  (2.7L/4WD reg cab shorttbed). Comfy, generally happy with electronics/radio - but is there a way I can add switches to steering wheel right-side position (curr. empty) so I can adjust volume, push phone button to voice dial, etc? Bill W San Jose  
    • The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...