Jump to content

Rancho quicklift loaded


fuse36

Recommended Posts

Posted

Yes, I have added a spacer like that from eBay that is 1" to my existing 1.5" top mount spacer for a total of 2.5". I did not put a rear block in at all and on my Z71, it sits perfectly level.

 

I would be adding the 1/4" spacer to the Rancho Quick Lift strut level, but I don't know why it wouldn't work OK? Just haven't read of anyone doing it.
  • Replies 188
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

It should work fine, the only thing is that you are dropping your a-arms down pretty low and you will be topping out because of hitting your ball joint limits. You will have lots of clunking over bumps. At minimum I would look into aftermarket UCA's and maybe a diff drop.

 

EDIT, I thought you were talking about adding another 1", adding .5" should be fine, that will be about 2.75" of lift.

Posted

You must have gotten 2.25" of lift out of the Ranchos then? Everything I have read says they are 2", so in theory adding a 1/4" spacer should give me the same lift as the RC 2.5 but allow me a better ride. Or at least that's what I'm hoping for. The 1/4" spacers are only $20-25 so I might just order them to have on hand when I install the quick lifts in case I need them, I don't want to realign the truck twice. I want a little rake but I'm not sure if the rear of a max tow sits a tad higher? It's either the spacer or go with a 1.5 body lift, which might look better all around anyway. The body lift is way more work, but would also help the ride and CV angles.

Posted

Do they make a 1/4" spacer? that would really just be a 1/8th thick spacer. In theory you could just use washers and yes most have got just over 2". Somewhere around 2.25". My truck had sagged quite a bit and I gained about 2.5-2.75", but that's only because I have a lot of km.

 

I'm pretty sure the max tow doesn't sit higher, I would get the rancho's and put them on and see where you're sitting. If its not high enough get a spacer, and if it doesn't have enough rake get a larger rear block.

Posted

It's a 1/4" thick, for a 1/2" of lift. I'll probably go ahead with the spacer and the rear block as I'd rather not do the BL just because of the install.

Posted

It's a 1/4" thick, for a 1/2" of lift. I'll probably go ahead with the spacer and the rear block as I'd rather not do the BL just because of the install.

let me know how it rides once u add the spacer

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

using Tapatalk

Posted

Unless you're towing heavy weight you should have the back lower than rear. I recommend switching to 6 in the front and 4 or 5 in rear. Again. Personal preference though and I just went by the recommended rancho settings.

Changed to a 5 front and 3 rear, rides great!!!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Looking at going with the Rancho combo. Do you guys think I'll be ok with running 305/50/20 on the stock AT 20's?

Posted

Looking at going with the Rancho combo. Do you guys think I'll be ok with running 305/50/20 on the stock AT 20's?

305/50r20 is slightly smaller than stock diameter which is why I didn't go with 305/40r22. 305/55r20 or 285-295/55r20 would be better. With anything 295 and up on stock wheels you will rub your upper control arms and sway bar. You will need at least an 8mm spacer.
Posted

305/50r20 is slightly smaller than stock diameter which is why I didn't go with 305/40r22. 305/55r20 or 285-295/55r20 would be better. With anything 295 and up on stock wheels you will rub your upper control arms and sway bar. You will need at least an 8mm spacer.

I think I need some clarification on this.. The wheels that fit easiest on 295 and up are those with around +20 offset and a backspacing around 6? This is my understanding but please expand on it. When the width of the tire increases, you need to push out the tire/wheel- an increase in backspacing.

Posted

Stock wheels are +27 offset, well mine are anyways. +20 is going to stick out 7mm more than stock wheels, which should be enough to clear 295. Also some 295's will fit without spacers on stock rims and some won't. All tires have different widths, but if you're looking at LT tires they have a thicker sidewall which usually equates to a wider tire. Anything over 12" wide will most likely rub.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

So after using these for three months, I can give a bit of an update on them. This is trying all setting variations. I find that setting the damping lower just made it bouncier as the spring has such a high rate. While I don't mind these shocks, I feel they give about the same ride quality as 5100's did for me in the past on my last truck. I get a preloaded spring feeling.

 

 

 

Pros

1. Ride is more controlled than stock

2. Reduces body roll/ nose dive

3. Gave slightly more than 2" of lift, for a new truck it would make it sit pretty much perfectly level

4. Adjustable damping great for towing

 

Cons

1. Still harsh riding over cracks and expansion joints

2. Very harsh riding over bigger bumps/man holes/speed bumps etc.

3. When the shock extends after going over bumps etc it does so very fast and harsh (most likely due to high spring rate)

 

 

These cons are leading me to probably replace the front shocks with Bilstein 6112's, all the people on various forums that have been running them have nothing but great things to say about how they ride and how soft and plush the ride is. I will most likely keep the rear 9000xl's for the sake of being able to adjust them for towing. Don't get me wrong I don't hate the rancho's they're good shocks, I just feel they could be better, but I guess you get what you pay for. They are better than stock, and they are an upgrade over stock. I'm very critical and I over think things like this while others just say "They ride great" and go on with their life.

 

I've spent some time comparing the quicklift loaded physically to my stock struts and I've noticed they mimic a lift kit that has a coil spacer and a bottom spacer. These kits provide lift by compressing the coil in combination with using a bottom or top spacer. The quicklifts coil is compressed more than my stock strut (mimics coil spacer) as well as it is slightly longer (mimics bottom/top spacer). I think this is its major down fall.

 

The 6112's use higher damping and a lower rate coil, this gives the ultimate ride by reducing the coil bounce that I hate and increasing the work done by the shock.

Posted

I have had my Quicklift for about 6 months now..... I like them .... think they are much better than the Bilstein 5100 I had installed for a new days.

I think I run setting 4 up front and 5 in the back. with my BFG at 40 psi

Posted

I have had my Quicklift for about 6 months now..... I like them .... think they are much better than the Bilstein 5100 I had installed for a new days.

I think I run setting 4 up front and 5 in the back. with my BFG at 40 psi

Our opinions may be due to our location. Where I live the temp fluctuates big time. When it's cold I find the these shocks are more harsh, they're more bearable when its warm out. My biggest gripe is the harsh extension while going over larger bumps, which is definitely better when its warm outside.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,924
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    KirbyCo
    Newest Member
    KirbyCo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,442 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I will be doing that for sure, but I need to solve who has/ where I can find a bidirectional scan tool that will support OBD 1.5. I'm kicking myself because I ebay'ed a Snap On MT2500 that I didn't think I'd ever need anymore. D'oh!! I'd rather not buy another, so I'll contact a few local shops to see if they have one and how much they'd want to do the procedure. I'd rather have the ability to do it myself... I wish there was a modern tool that could do it all, but I'd have no idea what to buy.   The theory with the pulled timing is that it mimics a rich condition. The delayed spark causes incomplete burn and the O2 sensor picks up low oxygen levels. That's interpreted as a rich condition so the PCM pulls fuel and that shows up in the deeply negative fuel trims.
    • An ultra wealthy man had the most beautiful daughter. But, there was a problem. Everything she touched would melt in her hands. No matter what, Metal, Wood, Stone. Anything she touched would melt. She could not feed herself. Because of this, men were afraid of her. Nobody would dare marry her. Her father was despaired. What could he do to help his daughter? He consulted doctors, scientists and anybody who could solve this problem. Finally one of them said, "If your daughter touches one thing that does not melt in her hands, she will be cured." He was overjoyed and came up with a plan. The next day, he held a competition. Any man who could bring his daughter an object that would not melt in her hands would be given billions of dollars to marry her. Three extremely intelligent and handsome young men took up the challenge. The first brought a very heavy steel rod, But alas, when the she touched it, it completely melted in a matter of seconds. He sadly went away. The second brought a beautiful diamond, knowing diamonds were one of the hardest substance in the world and would not melt. But alas, once she held it in her hand, it melted. He too was sent away disappointed. So now, there was one left He was very nervous & sweating. He approached the daughter & said, “put your hand in my pants pocket and feel what is in there." She did exactly what he asked. She felt something very hard. She held it in her hand, squeezing it as hard as she could. It did not melt & remained extremely hard. Her father was overjoyed. Everybody was overjoyed. She was finally cured. Nothing never, ever melted in her hand again. They married and they both lived happily ever after, raising a wonderful family. Question: What was in the the groom’s pants pocket??? Answer below ↓ M&Ms of course! They melt in your mouth, not in your hand. What on earth were you thinking?
    • There's a bunch of tea leaves that you've read, but in any case the delayed timing is unusual. Not sure how that relates to the rich at idle vs. 'normal' while driving.   If you're in this deep, might be worth investigating, and re-learning the sensor. What have you got to lose? Plus, it properly fixes the timing cover leak.
    • The only problem I have seen this cause is longer crank times. 
    • Injector is being sent off today for rebuild and I estimate I'll have it back in 10 days or so.   It may not be the injector...of course...now that I've torn down the intake again. But, let's rule out the injector and replace those spider legs that have been almost rubbed through.   The truck has always had negative timing and I'm reading "normal" timing at warm idle should be +16 or so. I'm negative 16 to 25 or more, and it's always been like that since I bought it.   A light turned on upstairs last night in the old noggin. Rare, I know...   This will be wild, if it turns out to be the cause!   In 2001, according to the old service documentation, the muffler was replaced. Why? I have no idea, it wouldn't have been rusted through by then. But they did a crappy job.   In 2019, another shop replaced it and noted the prior install was poorly done on the work order. "Exhaust system vibrates on crossmember". Except...I guess they just left it be? I believe the husband, the couple who were original owners, had passed by then. Maybe she said it's just not worth it to have the exhaust system fixed and declined repairs. Very few miles were driven between 2019 and 2025.   The exhaust system vibrates heavily on the crossmember and you can feel it and REALLY hear it, even today. Not always, but at idle, it gets going pretty good sometimes.   What if....   ....What if that's enough to trigger one or both of the knock sensors? Could it be tricking the sensors into sensing knock, so it's pulling timing aggressively? Pulling timing heavily means it's firing after the piston reaches full height which means incomplete burn which means the O2 sensor is sensing a rich condition, which means I've been chasing my tail, and what I thought was an inconsequential problem (janky exhaust) has been THE issue for this truck for 25 solid years?   That would be wild. Maybe it IS wild.   The service documentation thereafter, for years, shows visits for rough idle, replacing O2's, replacing the cat, replacing plugs and wires, a misfire condition, like they could never solve the issue. The injector has been replaced 4 times in 80k miles, that's just crazy.   The secondary theory....   The engine has clearly had a leak at the front seal for a very long time (the greasy trench...). I think the truck changed hands quickly ~2025 because there's Napa receipts from someone I don't recognize in the ownership history. They apparently replaced the timing cover seal, and they did a terrible job. There's RTV smeared all over and the leak I had reduced to a weep by snugging the front oil pan bolts is now a leak again.   HOWEVER....I read about replacing the crankshaft position sensor. Any time the ckp sensor is disturbed or timing cover is removed, the truck requires relearning, and that can only be done through a bi-directional scan tool. Skippy with the RTV probably didn't do the relearn procedure is my guess. His scan tool is lost in a pile of RTV goo somewhere.   So, it's very possible the sensor has been disturbed and the truck is just running on the old learn data but not setting a code for anything. The distributor has since been replaced and so has the camshaft position sensor, so all bets are off for that thing.   In the theme of one step forward, two steps back, I returned the accumulator for the AC. The gal I've been working with at O'Really's has been great. She refunded it under manufacturer's defect and we compared it to the replacement I ordered, and sure enough, the replacement is machined very differently (and a gauge actually fits on it!).   Got it home, installed it, started vacuuming it down.... and I couldn't get good vacuum.   The high side service port, where I replaced the old GM ball valve suspecting that was a source of the previous leak....well, I've clearly exposed whatever pre-existing crack in the line where the service port is welded, and made it much worse. Blessing in disguise? Except there goes another $25, now I'm waiting for a replacement AC line.   In 10-ish days ALL the parts will be here. Rebuilt injector, new exhaust system, new cat, new high pressure AC line.   Oh, did I mention the squeaking ISN'T coming from the AC pump? The truck still squeaks when started, and there were words after I started it with the new AC pump installed. But, there was more to replacing the AC pump for just a squeak. A truck with good working AC is something of value, for the comfort alone.   I've ordered a new harmonic balancer because, 30 years is a good run for one of those. Rule it out. The squeak may be something more sinister, though. I'm worried about that ckp sensor and if it was shimmed correctly, or if the timing set was installed correctly. The squeak may be coming from UNDER the timing cover.   At this point, once I get it put back together, I'm thinking I'll take a 50 mile victory lap and then promptly put it up for sale. This truck is cursed. Betty, from beyond the grave, doesn't want anyone messing with her Blazer. Or maybe she's getting revenge for 30 years of shop visits with that thing.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...