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Posted

does anyone know the part number for the terminal connector that one would put in the X3 connector on #37 on the X51?


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Posted
On 7/21/2017 at 5:13 PM, cbrsilv15 said:

You can go to the dealership and pick up the terminals your self if you need to have that jumper wire like Justin posted on page 11. I used Yazaki 4114411002 ( male spade terminal) and Yazaki 7116411102 ( female terminal) Not bad. It took me just under 2 hours but that was battling the heat outside as well. Fighting the clockspring is a PITA. That yellow plug is fished all the way up and to the side of the dash.

 

It seems as though everything works now, but I'll have to try it again tonight when it cools off. Everything in the truck was super hot. :crackup:

 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
26 minutes ago, cbrsilv15 said:

7116411102 ( female terminal)

Thank you!  This was the one I couldn't find any reference to and the ones that were listed in the thread showed as incorrect or obsolete. 

Posted

I find or have a hard time finding Yazaki terminals. For the Fuse Blocks, I was able to find Terminals from Mouser. They are listed as Delphi OCS Terminals. There are two sizes... 1.5 and 2.8.

I found part # 35031567 for the Female 1.5 Terminal and Part # 13849933 for the Female 2.8 Terminal.

There are variants too based on wire gauge size. These two #s seem to work the best.


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Posted

has anyone tried just replacing the cruise switch assy. for one with the wheel heater switch?

i imagine the clock spring would also need to be changed.

the part# is 23156914 and it seems to be less than $50.

Posted

What good would a switch do if there is no heating element in the wheel?

 

After reading through the very long thread, I ordered a new wheel and clock spring today from GMpartsnow.com (Berger Chevrolet).  I have the power pedals, so I'm counting on the existing connector being live.  If it's not, I guess I have to figure out the wire to the fuse box.

 

I've had lots of cars that sat outside, but this is the first one that really seems to need a heated wheel.  It's almost like it's filled with that gell from blue ice.  It just stays cold.

Posted

you are right, dumb question. i guess after reading all 19 pages of the thread i got stupid.

i have the power pedals also, this weekend i will check for the connector and order the wheel and clockspring

Posted

I recommend you go to a place like I did.  I called to verify I was ordering the right parts and sure enough, I got the wheel wrong.  I was off by one digit.  Apparently, there are about 30 different wheels for these trucks.  I found the black one with the right options, but I wanted black with red stitching to match my existing wheel.  They got me the right part number so now I have confidence I ordered the right parts.

Posted

I ordered the heated wheel 84222913 black with red stitching, and 23381964 clock spring for heated wheel.

Posted

So I finally got underneath the dash on my 2016 LTZ.  I have the connector/harness for the heated steering wheel, but it appears to be dead. It should show 12 V with the engine running correct? Mine shows 0 (unless I'm just not finding a good enough ground to test with). 

 

Having not read through the beginning of this thread, what would I need to make that harness hot?

  • Like 1
Posted
So I finally got underneath the dash on my 2016 LTZ.  I have the connector/harness for the heated steering wheel, but it appears to be dead. It should show 12 V with the engine running correct? Mine shows 0 (unless I'm just not finding a good enough ground to test with). 
 
Having not read through the beginning of this thread, what would I need to make that harness hot?

If your 2-Pin Connector mate under the dash is hot while running, then you’re good to go. I originally thought his was a constant, but it’s a Run/Crank ignition switched source.


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Posted

There is a larger connector up above the column. It’s an X201 - 42 pin connector. I’ll venture a guess and say you’re missing a pin there. Pin 37 if I recall.


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Posted

Ok....I had engine running and had no voltage. So I'll look earlier in the thread for these other pins/connectors.  Thx

Posted

That’s how I checked mine. No 12v while key on. I had to add the wire to jump from the fuse box to the plug above the brake pedal. 

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