Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a RC 2.5 Level with the taller rear block and its kind of bothering me how my truck still has 1" of rake. Only I can notice it I'm sure but I was wondering if I could get a set of Bilstein's in the front to fix this? Besides going back and putting the stock block back in of course... Any advice to make it completely level?


Posted

 

I have a RC 2.5 Level with the taller rear block and its kind of bothering me how my truck still has 1" of rake. Only I can notice it I'm sure but I was wondering if I could get a set of Bilstein's in the front to fix this? Besides going back and putting the stock block back in of course... Any advice to make it completely level?

Because the Bilsteins are longer than the stock shocks, you would most likely get control arm to droop stop contact. Do you have the aluminum or steel suspension?

Posted

Because the Bilsteins are longer than the stock shocks, you would most likely get control arm to droop stop contact. Do you have the aluminum or steel suspension?

 

The control arms are steel if that answers your question. Not sure about anything else

Posted

 

I have a RC 2.5 Level with the taller rear block and its kind of bothering me how my truck still has 1" of rake. Only I can notice it I'm sure but I was wondering if I could get a set of Bilstein's in the front to fix this? Besides going back and putting the stock block back in of course... Any advice to make it completely level?

Are you suggesting adding more front height by doubling up on leveling with spacers and adjustable shocks? I have not read about anyone having success with this. A 1" rake, in my opinion is ideal. It is not noticeable and you can carry a light load without looking overloaded!

Posted

Are you suggesting adding more front height by doubling up on leveling with spacers and adjustable shocks? I have not read about anyone having success with this. A 1" rake, in my opinion is ideal. It is not noticeable and you can carry a light load without looking overloaded!

 

yeah that's what I was wondering. I'm just a perfectionist/ maybe some OCD. It's barely noticeable and I probably shouldn't have measured it lol. I'll get over it

Posted

I have the 5100's front and rear on my truck and I love the ride. Doing a zone 4.5 lift keeping the 5100's up front but bilstein does not offer a lifted shock for 2014-on 1500. 2013 1500 shows a part number and 2015-on 2500 also shows a lifted rear shock. What should I do??

Posted

The problem with adding 5100's to a spacer is that the 5100's are longer than stock shocks. So when you add a spacer, the shocks become even longer than stock, and the suspension has the ability to extend further down. You could get new UCA's that allow for more droop, but then you may overextend the tie rods and cv axels. If your running any sort of front diff drop bracket, it will help with the geometry, but in the end, 5100's with a spacer will still provide more droop than what the drop bracket is designed for.

 

My suggestion is to run 5100's alone, or with a smaller spacer than whatever came with any spacer kit you bought. Trucks with aluminum front suspension would be hard pressed to get even a 1" spacer in between the 5100 and the coil perch or lower CA before the uca contacts the droop stop on the frame (I tried it).

 

I'm going to try 5100's on the second setting (.75" lift) and either a .50" or .75" spacer below the shock. I think any more than that the cv's will be very unhappy when the suspension is fully extended. And yes, this will only be around 1.5" of lift, but I will have more droop travel over stock shocks and a spacer that gives a similar amount of lift. Function over form. I may go to a 1" spacer and new UCA's if this setup works out and the driveline geometry is too out of whack.

Posted

Hello all total newb here, I've been reading a lot lately and still can't decide what to do. I recently bought a new to me 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 that has a leveling kit and bigger rear block installed and having never had a leveled truck I'm not too crazy about the ride quality, it's got about 1" of rake which is just fit with me. I'm debating a couple things, 1) install bilstein 4600 shocks and leave the leveling kit on and hope it makes it a little better. Or 2) get bilstein 5100s for all 4 corners and remove the front kit all together. The truck also has ~33"X11" ko2's on some 18" kmc wheels. I do a considerable amount of off pavement driving as we go camping and hunting all summer and fall so I'm just looking for a little better ride. So I guess my real question is this, do bilstein 5100s ride "nicer" than a block leveling kit up front? I just don't really like the "jarring" when I got a pothole or bigger bump. Thanks for any input you guys can share

Posted

Hello all total newb here, I've been reading a lot lately and still can't decide what to do. I recently bought a new to me 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 that has a leveling kit and bigger rear block installed and having never had a leveled truck I'm not too crazy about the ride quality, it's got about 1" of rake which is just fit with me. I'm debating a couple things, 1) install bilstein 4600 shocks and leave the leveling kit on and hope it makes it a little better. Or 2) get bilstein 5100s for all 4 corners and remove the front kit all together. The truck also has ~33"X11" ko2's on some 18" kmc wheels. I do a considerable amount of off pavement driving as we go camping and hunting all summer and fall so I'm just looking for a little better ride. So I guess my real question is this, do bilstein 5100s ride "nicer" than a block leveling kit up front? I just don't really like the "jarring" when I got a pothole or bigger bump. Thanks for any input you guys can share

I installed the 5100s on all four corners on my 14 silverado Z71 and thought the ride was great. The highest setting leveled the truck perfectly. I went with the leveling shocks over the spacer kits so that the ride quality would be better.

Posted

I installed the 5100s on all four corners on my 14 silverado Z71 and thought the ride was great. The highest setting leveled the truck perfectly. I went with the leveling shocks over the spacer kits so that the ride quality would be better.

 

Thanks for the reply man, so you would think if I removed the front kit installed the 5100s all around with the fronts on the highest setting and kept the bigger rear block it would still keep a little rake and ride better?
Posted

Thanks for the reply man, so you would think if I removed the front kit installed the 5100s all around with the fronts on the highest setting and kept the bigger rear block it would still keep a little rake and ride better?

In my opinion, yes; however, I'm by no means an expert on this topic. You need to make sure the bigger rear block is within tolerances for the rear shocks. If I remember correctly you can use a block up to one inch taller than the stock block, but you'll need to confirm.

Posted (edited)

i have the rancho shocks and a rough country 2.5" level kit. if i put the bilsteins 5100 shocks in should i removed the level kit

From the research I did last year, I think you should remove it - at the least, the front spacer. I remember reading about a lot of folks trying to use the 5100s with a level kit and it didn't work well on the front end. I would not leave the front spacer on with the 5100s; though you may be able to leave the rear block (I'm assuming your level kit came with a replacement rear block since it's a 2.5). Others with more expertise and experience may be able to offer better guidance.

Edited by pcruis1
  • Like 1
Posted

Hello all total newb here, I've been reading a lot lately and still can't decide what to do. I recently bought a new to me 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 that has a leveling kit and bigger rear block installed and having never had a leveled truck I'm not too crazy about the ride quality, it's got about 1" of rake which is just fit with me. I'm debating a couple things, 1) install bilstein 4600 shocks and leave the leveling kit on and hope it makes it a little better. Or 2) get bilstein 5100s for all 4 corners and remove the front kit all together. The truck also has ~33"X11" ko2's on some 18" kmc wheels. I do a considerable amount of off pavement driving as we go camping and hunting all summer and fall so I'm just looking for a little better ride. So I guess my real question is this, do bilstein 5100s ride "nicer" than a block leveling kit up front? I just don't really like the "jarring" when I got a pothole or bigger bump. Thanks for any input you guys can share

the 33" LT tires are adding to the roughness you are experiencing. KO-2's are LT tires and I believe are an 8ply C load range or 10 ply E load range depending on size. Much firmer than the P metric tires that came on the 1500.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 2026 3500HD.  Mostly empty. Grocery getter. What tire pressure are you running for 37x12.50x20. I have 37x12.50R20 Toyo Open  Country RT pro and been running around 55 lbs front and rear and it's too much. Tires are wearing more in the middle. Toyo says 45 front and 50 rear. Chalk test and it's still too much. I lowered it to 40 front 44 rear see what happens. 
    • Enjoy the new truck, it’s a beauty. I’m glad you’re keeping the OBS, I love those old trucks. 
    • With large equipment or deep mud it is more of a use the higher gear to avoid spinning tires, getting stuck because of spinning tires and doing damage to your machine. The idea is if you run out of torque before you spin tires you can still downshift for more torque. If you are just spinning your tires in the lowest available gear you are stuck and things break.   Automatic transmissions, traction control and electronic transfer cases change the calculation a little as you the driver have less control over each piece. 
    • are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...