Intake clean. WOW!

Silverado-Hareek · November 17, 2016

Yeah your valves will be coked up a little but not to the point where you'd have major problems. In my opinion, I would install your catch can first, and then do an upper induction cleaning to remove the existing deposits and you should be good going forward. You have to change your oil when you do an upper induction service so time it with your next oil change.

I have a question about the clean side separator. How do you twist it open to do an oil change with the hose connected to the barb on it? Wouldn't the hose prevent twisting?

07Softail · November 17, 2016

Clean side comes with an adapter that screws in where the filler cap goes and then the separator slips into it. then run the hose to the Intake tube then you run the crossover tube from valve cover to valve cover and your done.

RT

66deadhead · November 17, 2016

Yeah your valves will be coked up a little but not to the point where you'd have major problems. In my opinion, I would install your catch can first, and then do an upper induction cleaning to remove the existing deposits and you should be good going forward. You have to change your oil when you do an upper induction service so time it with your next oil change.

I have a question about the clean side separator. How do you twist it open to do an oil change with the hose connected to the barb on it? Wouldn't the hose prevent twisting?

Ok cool. Thank you very much for your input. I'm a little worried about the debris from the valve falling down into the cylinder and possibly scoring the cylinder, jamming up the piston rings, or clogging up the cats when I do the treatment. I'm hoping it isn't that bad yet to cause any of these problems. I have been running mobile 1 since the first oil change, Hopefully that's helping the valves from building up a little bit. I guess I'll know more when I get the air box off and inspect the throttle body and existing vacuum hoses.

As far as the clean side separator, On the UPR Can kit I ordered, it's my understanding that the separator goes in place of where the oil fill cap is now and that the fittings are quick release. So hopefully the hose should snap right off without any problems when oil needs to be added. I could be wrong about this. Guess I'll know more when the kit shows up in a couple days. It seems like a pretty painless install, and they are saying the whole job should only take 25-45 minutes to complete. So that means it will probably take me a hour and a half /2 hrs to complete in the driveway. Lol. I'll try to post some results on the outcome.

Also,I always get a lot of great information on this site,and a few others. there seems to be an answer to almost everything if you take the time to search for it ,or just ask. everyone is always helpful, so Thanks to everyone for all your contributions and taking the time to help others that are not so knowledgeable on certain procedures..... You are the reason this site is so successful !!!

Yeah your valves will be coked up a little but not to the point where you'd have major problems. In my opinion, I would install your catch can first, and then do an upper induction cleaning to remove the existing deposits and you should be good going forward. You have to change your oil when you do an upper induction service so time it with your next oil change.

I have a question about the clean side separator. How do you twist it open to do an oil change with the hose connected to the barb on it? Wouldn't the hose prevent twisting?

Ok cool. Thank you very much for your input. I'm a little worried about the debris from the valve falling down into the cylinder and possibly scoring the cylinder, jamming up the piston rings, or clogging up the cats when I do the treatment. I'm hoping it isn't that bad yet to cause any of these problems. I have been running mobile 1 since the first oil change, Hopefully that's helping the valves from building up a little bit. I guess I'll know more when I get the air box off and inspect the throttle body and existing vacuum hoses.

As far as the clean side separator, On the UPR Can kit I ordered, it's my understanding that the separator goes in place of where the oil fill cap is now and that the fittings are quick release. So hopefully the hose should snap right off without any problems when oil needs to be added. I could be wrong about this. Guess I'll know more when the kit shows up in a couple days. It seems like a pretty painless install, and they are saying the whole job should only take 25-45 minutes to complete. So that means it will probably take me a hour and a half /2 hrs to complete in the driveway. Lol. I'll try to post some results on the outcome.

Also,I always get a lot of great information on this site,and a few others. there seems to be an answer to almost everything if you take the time to search for it ,or just ask. everyone is always helpful, so Thanks to everyone for all your contributions and taking the time to help others that are not so knowledgeable on certain procedures..... You are the reason this site is so successful !!!

Silverado-Hareek · November 17, 2016

Ok cool. Thank you very much for your input. I'm a little worried about the debris from the valve falling down into the cylinder and possibly scoring the cylinder, jamming up the piston rings, or clogging up the cats when I do the treatment. I'm hoping it isn't that bad yet to cause any of these problems. I have been running mobile 1 since the first oil change, Hopefully that's helping the valves from building up a little bit. I guess I'll know more when I get the air box off and inspect the throttle body and existing vacuum hoses.

As far as the clean side separator, On the UPR Can kit I ordered, it's my understanding that the separator goes in place of where the oil fill cap is now and that the fittings are quick release. So hopefully the hose should snap right off without any problems when oil needs to be added. I could be wrong about this. Guess I'll know more when the kit shows up in a couple days. It seems like a pretty painless install, and they are saying the whole job should only take 25-45 minutes to complete. So that means it will probably take me a hour and a half /2 hrs to complete in the driveway. Lol. I'll try to post some results on the outcome.

Also,I always get a lot of great information on this site,and a few others. there seems to be an answer to almost everything if you take the time to search for it ,or just ask. everyone is always helpful, so Thanks to everyone for all your contributions and taking the time to help others that are not so knowledgeable on certain procedures..... You are the reason this site is so successful !!!

I don't know about all products out there but the BG Induction service includes a special oil additive to help with preventing deposits causing scoring on the cylinder walls. That's what my mechanic told me anyway. In any event, I've had it done twice now with no issues but I'm not going to do it any more just to be safe.

F4Gary · August 25, 2017

I want to do the CRC treatment on my '14, but with 55,000 miles on it, I'm afraid I'll clog my cats like Project Summit did. Are they warranted longer since they are an emissions part?

Pearl2017 · August 25, 2017

Back in the 80's 90s I was buying cans of GM branded fogging spray at the local GM parts counter. The instructions were to fog it into the carb slowly for 30 seconds then full blast till it stalled. Then wait 30 minutes before starting it back up and blowing it out. It was spitting and smoking the whole time. I would think a similar process would soak the valves really good.

If you're worried about clogging cats do the fogging process after a drive has the cats at full temp. You'll have the best chance of vaporizing any debris that flushes thru.

2017SierraSLT · August 26, 2017

This is why I installed my Elite Engineering catch can at 20 miles on the odometer.

bkesting · January 27, 2018

Resurrecting this thread.

Just bought a 2016 Silverado with the 5.3. It has 15,000 mi on it. I will be adding a catch can (haven't decided which one, they all look good), the Range module and doing an intake clean. Should I do the Seafoam or BG method? If BG....what shops do that?

Austin66 · January 28, 2018

Get the CRC GDI IVD cleaner.

tanner709 · January 28, 2018

Guys,

I have 30k miles on my truck, no catch can, no intake cleaning ever done.

I average 15 mpg with mixed driving through the lifetime of the truck (6speed crew cab, 33" MT's, 3.43 gearing, leveled, black widow exhaust, airraid MIT).

The best I've ever seen is 18MPG, MAYBE 20MPG, even new on stock tires and suspension.

my questions are;

1) Is it too late for a catch can, is the damage done?

2) What can I say to the dealer to get them to look at the intake valves for suspected buildup?

3) Is it too late for intake cleaner on my truck? What are the hazards vs rewards?

Any responses are appreciated. I'm scared shitless now after reading the extreme positive and negative stories around the intake buildup.

Orlando8 · January 28, 2018

i see pictures of valves with a catch can and they are clean but never a picture of valves without a can with truck with same mileage. If these are really needed I cant believe a vendor hasnt done a side to side test, one truck with a can , another without and posted the results after so many miles. Maybe there is a reason they havent ???

Austin66 · January 28, 2018

Why would a vendor go through all that and who would believe them any way?

Over the holidays, I manually cleaned my valves and installed a catch can right after. I had 45k miles and they were pretty nasty esp the afm valves. Easily picked up 1-1.5mpg at highway speeds off the bat and its getting even better as the ECU relearns (I disconnected battery). In my opinion, the sprays won't do much if you have some mileage.

tanner709 · January 28, 2018

4 hours ago, Austin66 said:

Why would a vendor go through all that and who would believe them any way?

Over the holidays, I manually cleaned my valves and installed a catch can right after. I had 45k miles and they were pretty nasty esp the afm valves. Easily picked up 1-1.5mpg at highway speeds off the bat and its getting even better as the ECU relearns (I disconnected battery). In my opinion, the sprays won't do much if you have some mileage.

Can you give me a overview of the work involved with manually cleaning? Sounds like a fairly complicated and extensive job

Austin66 · January 28, 2018

Extensive yes, but not complicated.

First, you have to remove the intake obviously. Removing the intake is easier once you realize the intake comes off first and then the cover. Theres plastic pins on the cover that secures the harness and getting the back ones disconnected are damn near possible unless the intake is off first.

Theres usually 4 valves open and 4 closed at any given time. Tape off the ones that are open. I started off using a 9.5" hook and pick set, a borer brush and long flat screwdriver but ended up using just the hook/pick set. I soaked with CRC GDI and finished with carb cleaner. I tried cleaning out with a shop vac and blowing with compressed air but the vac wasn't thorough enough and the compressed air made too much of a mess so I used blue shop towels in 1/8 slices. Soak>scrape>soak>wipe out.....Soak>scrape>soak>wipe out....repeat until clean. Rotate the crank for the other valves. Repeat. Done.

tanner709 · January 28, 2018

10 minutes ago, Austin66 said:

Extensive yes, but not complicated.

First, you have to remove the intake obviously. Removing the intake is easier once you realize the intake comes off first and then the cover. Theres plastic pins on the cover that secures the harness and getting the back ones disconnected are damn near possible unless the intake is off first.

Theres usually 4 valves open and 4 closed at any given time. Tape off the ones that are open. I started off using a 9.5" hook and pick set, a borer brush and long flat screwdriver but ended up using just the hook/pick set. I soaked with CRC GDI and finished with carb cleaner. I tried cleaning out with a shop vac and blowing with compressed air but the vac wasn't thorough enough and the compressed air made too much of a mess so I used blue shop towels in 1/8 slices. Soak>scrape>soak>wipe out.....Soak>scrape>soak>wipe out....repeat until clean. Rotate the crank for the other valves. Repeat. Done.

Awesome thanks for the info, I appreciate it. I'll be looking into this method as I have 30k miles on the truck, no preventative maintenance/mods done in regards to this buildup.

Do you have any pictures, before and after?