Jump to content

Tuned and Converted to Flex Fuel (2015 Silverado 5.3L)

Rawyzf
 Share

Recommended Posts

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted (edited)

You can also run a stock flex fuel tune if you have someone knowledgeable with a GDS2 and TIS2web ;)

For 2016 GM isn't offering the flexfuel option on the 5.3/8speed, just on the 5.3/6speed. Can that been 'overridden' with the service equipment? Maybe they haven't 'released' the necessary programming for the 5.3 to be able to communicate with the 8 speed.

Edited by redwngr
  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 161
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Rawyzf
Rawyzf

I'm not even sure where to start with this post, but here goes.   Last week I ordered the Flex Fuel Sensor and fuel lines/hose/clips for the conversion and then dropped the truck off at the Tuner.

SMiller
SMiller

I could care less if it only gained 5hp, just changing the shift points and torque management make it seem like 100hp gain.

Carl T
Carl T

Here you go, this is a 15 GMC 6.2 L86 A8 w/air intake. I was hoping for a stoker but it was as close as I could get.   Stock- 332/383 Tuned - 353/409 picked up 21whp and 26 ft/lbs over stock Tune

Posted Images

Carl T Enthusiast

Carl T

Posted
Posted

A tune is a tune any way you look at it, the computer must be reflashed.

 

We look at tuning different, my view is taking a stock calibration and optimizing for maximum gains. I would not say I "tuned" a vehicle with a stock tune on it. I see what you are saying from a warranty standpoint.

 

For 2016 GM isn't offering the flexfuel option on the 5.3/8speed, just on the 5.3/6speed. Can that been 'overridden' with the service equipment? Maybe they haven't 'released' the necessary programming for the 5.3 to be able to communicate with the 8 speed.

 

I personally am in search of a local one currently, the ECU and TCM are separate modules and you should be able to flash a flex tune out of a 5.3, A6 into the A8 (again I need one to test). Aftermarket tuning will work just fine.

 

You will still need to install the hardware to make it work (fuel comp sensor, wiring harness).

AgDoctor Senior Enthusiast

AgDoctor

Posted
Posted

 

We look at tuning different, my view is taking a stock calibration and optimizing for maximum gains. I would not say I "tuned" a vehicle with a stock tune on it. I see what you are saying from a warranty standpoint.

 

 

I personally am in search of a local one currently, the ECU and TCM are separate modules and you should be able to flash a flex tune out of a 5.3, A6 into the A8 (again I need one to test). Aftermarket tuning will work just fine.

 

You will still need to install the hardware to make it work (fuel comp sensor, wiring harness).

Very interested to see if this works. I am curious why GM chose not to have this an option, seeing as Ford upgraded the HP on the 5.0 to like 385hp on 87 octane.

 

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

ultra2207 Enthusiast

ultra2207

Posted
Posted

Very interested to see if this works. I am curious why GM chose not to have this an option, seeing as Ford upgraded the HP on the 5.0 to like 385hp on 87 octane.

 

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Im curious as well. Will wait and see..

 

 

sent via tapatalk

  • 6 months later...
bboyce536 Enthusiast

bboyce536

Posted
Posted

Bringing thread back from dead. Had a 6.2/8 speed I wanted to tune, but instead had issues, and ended up trading for a 16 5.3. I had a 14 5.3 but man the 5.3 is hard to go back to. So sluggish and slow. Will be doing this E85 tune to my 5.3.

 

What I wanna know in the stock 6.2 vs e85 tuned 5.3 graph is this...was the 6.2 not dynod in 5th while the 5.3 in 3rd? Would that not help the 6.2 read slightly higher as it is closer to the desirable 1.1 ratio? Just interested in how close I can get to my 6.2 driving dynamic. I can't stand how much throttle it takes to get this 5.3 moving...

  • 2 weeks later...
Rawyzf Senior Enthusiast

Rawyzf

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Not a clue, sorry.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  • 2 months later...
TrueBlueSilverAdo Enthusiast

TrueBlueSilverAdo

Posted
Posted

whats up,

 

so I got around to running e85 for 2 months before the weather changed in my 14' 5.3 crew cab/short bed/ with 3.07s stock tune

 

here were my findings"

 

Placebo effect,

i loved flooring it everywhere

the trans just felt like it knew how to shift better then it has in the last 1.5 years I have owned the truck

it felt more powerful

 

hard numbers

on 87 octane, i was paying between 14-15 cents per mile

on e85, it went down to 12-13 cents per mile, even with flooring it more

i was averaging 14 miles to the gallon on e85 vs 15.6mpg on 87

 

towing

same trip/load with 87 I could touch 13 mpg, with e85 I was just below 10mpg

 

 

conclusion

The truck off the lot seems to take advantage of E85, but there is no financial reason to run it due to the increased consumption. I really liked running it in the summer when it was hot out, but as soon as it got cold, I the cranking time to start the motor shot way up, so I switched back to 87.

 

Though, I should have run it on the track to see the times, I might next summer. Then possible look into getting it tuned

Rawyzf Senior Enthusiast

Rawyzf

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Good info, thanks for the update.

 

You say there is no financial reason to run E85, but also you state .12-.13 per mile vs .14-.15 per mile on 87Octane.

 

.01 to .03 is savings ;)

 

I know, time is money, so more frequent fill ups too.

 

I'm at .114 per mile on E85 vs and average of .155 cost per mile on Premium 91.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

5.3Nali Enthusiast

5.3Nali

Posted
Posted

What's up guys, new to the forum here..

I been reading the flex fuel conversion topic like crazy for a few days now

I seen Rawyzf has done it to his, I want to do this also..

If any one can help me with the right parts for a crewcab I would gladly appreciate it

Or would it be better to buy the sensor kit and cut the lines.?

I really want to get more power out my L83 5.3

Thanks in advance

 

 

Here's a list of my mods so far

1 7/8 long tube headers

3" exhaust no cats

DOD delete

MSD wires

Cam Kit 230/240

Street tune

  • Like 1
Rawyzf Senior Enthusiast

Rawyzf

Posted
  • Author
Posted

What's up guys, new to the forum here..

I been reading the flex fuel conversion topic like crazy for a few days now

I seen Rawyzf has done it to his, I want to do this also..

If any one can help me with the right parts for a crewcab I would gladly appreciate it

Or would it be better to buy the sensor kit and cut the lines.?

I really want to get more power out my L83 5.3

Thanks in advance

 

 

Here's a list of my mods so far

1 7/8 long tube headers

3" exhaust no cats

DOD delete

MSD wires

Cam Kit 230/240

Street tune

Click the link in my Signature. Carl (CJ Tunes) sells the kit.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
5.3Nali Enthusiast

5.3Nali

Posted
Posted

Click the link in my Signature. Carl (CJ Tunes) sells the kit.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

thanks, hoping to get this done real soon

  • Like 1
Rawyzf Senior Enthusiast

Rawyzf

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks, hoping to get this done real soon

You have a tuner around? I assume so since you're cammed and DOD deleted.

 

I'm curious what all you had to do as far as parts for the DOD delete.

 

It was a large list for the G8.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

5.3Nali Enthusiast

5.3Nali

Posted
Posted

You have a tuner around? I assume so since you're cammed and DOD deleted.

I'm curious what all you had to do as far as parts for the DOD delete.

It was a large list for the G8.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I know a few tuners, I bought the cam kit and DOD delete kit for my local performance shop and had them install it

New gaskets, lifters, lifter trays, bolts, pushrods, double springs, etc etc lol

Payed 2,000 for the install and all

  • Like 1
Rawyzf Senior Enthusiast

Rawyzf

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I know a few tuners, I bought the cam kit and DOD delete kit for my local performance shop and had them install it

New gaskets, lifters, lifter trays, bolts, pushrods, double springs, etc etc lol

Payed 2,000 for the install and all

2000 for parts and install? Was cam included?

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • BIGBOYS
      Doors lock and mirrors fold in while driving

      By BIGBOYS · Posted

      I have a 2015 Silverado and sometimes I can not get in to the truck. I use the key to unlock the driver door. Something is locking the truck when I unlock it, last night I left the truck open and this morning it was locked with the mirrors folded in. This happens while driving so it is now a safety issue. I reach down for the folding button and they open, then they close again.  Any advice, thank you,   Ed
    • Paul8556
      Headlight issue...

      By Paul8556 · Posted

      Did you ever find a resolution to this? my 2019 Silverado 1500 is showing the exact same headlights issues with the exact same symptoms.  would help a ton if anyone has any advice on this or better yet a known solution..
    • RyanbabZ71
      Gas Prices

      By RyanbabZ71 · Posted

      Wawa and Meijer here have ethanol free (88 & 89) I use for my mower and lawn equipment.  Its not much more than reg.  I paid $3.29 a few weeks ago.  
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • William Aldrich
      Bent valve in 2025 GMC Canyon Denali - Requires engine swap at 14K miles

      By William Aldrich · Posted

      NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...