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Still Not Sold On A Catch Can? Check Here...


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You don't need to cool the line to get the vapor to form droplets and settle out into the can.

Get a can with an inner baffle, and fill that baffle with steel wool.  I have done this on my 2018 Z71 and now on my 2019 Trail Boss.  Both with 5.3 gas motors.

The 2018 catches several ounces of oil every 1,000 miles.  And yet, the return line to the intake manifold, the one drawing vacuum, is pretty much bone dry.

If you are just sucking hot oily vapor into a can and right back out... yeah, most of that oil is still in that vapor and gonna get sucked back into the motor.  You will catch some oil, but probably not even half of it...

Get an oil can with an inner baffle that is on the inlet side, and turn that baffle into a "filter" with steel wool...  force the vapor to have to filter through that, and you will catch almost all of it.

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2 hours ago, SquireSCA said:

You don't need to cool the line to get the vapor to form droplets and settle out into the can.

Get a can with an inner baffle, and fill that baffle with steel wool.  I have done this on my 2018 Z71 and now on my 2019 Trail Boss.  Both with 5.3 gas motors.

The 2018 catches several ounces of oil every 1,000 miles.  And yet, the return line to the intake manifold, the one drawing vacuum, is pretty much bone dry.

If you are just sucking hot oily vapor into a can and right back out... yeah, most of that oil is still in that vapor and gonna get sucked back into the motor.  You will catch some oil, but probably not even half of it...

Get an oil can with an inner baffle that is on the inlet side, and turn that baffle into a "filter" with steel wool...  force the vapor to have to filter through that, and you will catch almost all of it.

I think I have the exact same can as you, I haven't added the steel wool to it (in fear that a piece would break off and end up in a cylinder)...maybe I'll add some. I've been impressed with the amount this can already catches, but if it's worth improving? Why not

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1 hour ago, Doublebase said:

I think I have the exact same can as you, I haven't added the steel wool to it (in fear that a piece would break off and end up in a cylinder)...maybe I'll add some. I've been impressed with the amount this can already catches, but if it's worth improving? Why not

Not sure how some would break off.  I am not using the large course stuff they sent with the can.  I got some very fine steel wool, like what you would use for sanding furniture or something...  I took the inner baffle out, it unscrews, and then that baffle unscrews in half and I filled that up with the stuff, packed it in a bit, and then tightened it up and screwed it back in.  Nothing is going anywhere...

Plus, you are checking, and draining cleaning it every 1,000 or so miles, so you can visually inspect it and make sure everything is tight each time.

My catch can went on at 900 miles on the motor, so shouldn't have too much built up in the valve area at this point.  May do a Seaform intake valve cleaning kit just to make sure...

You probably can't prevent 100% of the oil from getting sucked in, but if you can stop 90% or more, you are doing the right thing by the motor.  

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On 12/8/2019 at 1:46 PM, flyingfool said:

similar idea to making moonshine, the oil always evaporates when heated, this contributes to oil consumption, and it's a normal part of heating petroleum products

28 page thread and we finally get to the good stuff.

Shine!

Then ya kill it with the 29th page.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got a question on hooking up a can with a blower. I have the crank case vent and one port off the supercharger. Trying to figure out if that would work. In from the charger out to the crank case vent.


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On 12/29/2019 at 10:52 AM, Jaychevy81 said:

Got a question on hooking up a can with a blower. I have the crank case vent and one port off the supercharger. Trying to figure out if that would work. In from the charger out to the crank case vent.


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Just put the catch can in between the hose that comes out from the pcv and goes to the supercharger. Make sure you put a check valve on the supercharger side with the arrow flowing towards the supercharger. Without the check valve you could do damage at some point

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What I find interesting (unless i missed it somewhere) Is no one mentioned using a methanol setup to keep the valves clean. I prefer straight meth but if a water-methanol setup suites you go for it. The meth flowing across the intake vales will keep them clean, plus you get the added advantage of some possible additional power. 
 

i have a 6.2l Sierra that has a supercharger with methanol setup. There are times i shut down the meth and run just the supercharger so i am putting in a catch can to help reduce the amount of oil going back in the engine to a minimum until i get the meth turned back on. 
 

This is safer to do than running seafoam thru your engine (which I would never do) and I don’t have to pull the manifold off to clean the valves with a wire brush. BTW the wire brush method is what I would do before I would use seafoam. 

Edited by azsteve01
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What I find interesting (unless i missed it somewhere) Is no one mentioned using a methanol setup to keep the valves clean. I prefer straight meth but if a water-methanol setup suites you go for it. The meth flowing across the intake vales will keep them clean, plus you get the added advantage of some possible additional power. 
 
i have a 6.2l Sierra that has a supercharger with methanol setup. There are times i shut down the meth and run just the supercharger so i am putting in a catch can to help reduce the amount of oil going back in the engine to a minimum until i get the meth turned back on. 
 
This is safer to do than running seafoam thru your engine (which I would never do) and I don’t have to pull the manifold off to clean the valves with a wire brush. BTW the wire brush method is what I would do before I would use seafoam. 

I’ve seen seafoam used to bring dead cylinders back to life. Eliminating a rebuild from bad fuel. The truck still runs well 10 years later. See it used many times at our shop, keeping engines running like new. I think I’d prefer it to a tear down.


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It amazes me how people can knock a product without any experience using the product.

I'm talking about Sea Foam.

Been around since the 40"s I believe.

I have used it for years in every motor I have owned.

From 2 cycle lawn equipment, vehicles and outboards.

They all get a regular dose of it.

My ATV gets a dose every fill up because it can sit for a while.

 

Quick story about Sea Foam.

Pulled up to the dock at the local lake, early spring time.

Boat sitting on the trailer.

Owner says it will start but as soon as you touch the throttle it dies.

I asked first time out this year?

Yes he said.

I asked did you leave gas in it over the winter?

Yes he said.

Is the gas in the 6 gallon tank fresh gas and oil?

Yes he said.

I had a can of Sea Foam in my truck. Usually do.

Sold the can to him.

Told him put the can of Sea Foam in the gas tank.

Start it and let it idle.

In fifteen minutes it ran fine.

Saved their fishing trip after a 2 hour drive to the lake.

 

Great product IMO.

It's also a fuel stabilizer and cheaper than Sta- Bil.

Also cleans the fuel system and Sta-Bil doesn't.

 

It has it limits. Everything does.

 

:)

 

 

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