bigger tires how bad is driveabilty

[Jackseric]

Typing & talking always interpreted differently - I was busting chops a bit w/ the poser comment so relax, but what I said is 100% true - & obviously other replies support that. You're 100% correct ground clearance and tire grip are bigger factors than power for sure when it comes to legit offroading - no disputing that (although when you start going bigger power must be addressed no?) In fact, part of the reason I installed the 5100's/block kit was because I got stuck offroading in a huge snow covered field (and ironically was pulled out by a jeep on 35"s LOL) - if I had an extra 2" wouldn't have gotten stuck.

 

But - I assumed based on the fact we're just talking about a level & 34"s that we're not really discussing legitimate "off-roading" capabilities, or modding the truck into a more purpose-built vehicle. My since the OP specifically states "DRIVEABILITY" in the subject that he's mainly on pavement and doing a little bit of offroading/playing around similar to my own experience above.

 

If that is the case - if you're spending 90% (hell even 70%) of the time on paved roads it is my recommendation that the very slight increased in height you gain from using 275/65 vs. 275/60 is entirely not worth the drop in MPG, "driveability", or loss in power...and how/why would you argue otherwise? "Off road traction" should be equal between the 2 sizes given the same model and tread, he's already gaining 2-2.5" of clearance from the level, so 275/65 is 7.04" of sidewall vs. 275/60 @ 6.5" - you're telling me that 1/2" is worth the negative impact of an additional 15-20 lbs per corner over the same exact tire in 275/60???

 

 

While it hurts me to say so, because I really wanted to stuff the biggest tire I could get into my wheel wells, this makes so much sense. And a tire that is 1" taller is only going to add 1/2" of ground clearance. I was set on Duratracs 275/65/20 but the fear of the rougher ride and MPG hit were holding me back. Now I'm 99.5% certain 275/60/20 are the ticket. I just pulled out a ruler and truly looked at the difference and don't think there is a person alive that could see the difference unless the two sizes were placed next to each other. But I'll bet I'd be able to feel the extra 11lbs on each corner!

[jrob56]

 

 

While it hurts me to say so, because I really wanted to stuff the biggest tire I could get into my wheel wells, this makes so much sense. And a tire that is 1" taller is only going to add 1/2" of ground clearance. I was set on Duratracs 275/65/20 but the fear of the rougher ride and MPG hit were holding me back. Now I'm 99.5% certain 275/60/20 are the ticket. I just pulled out a ruler and truly looked at the difference and don't think there is a person alive that could see the difference unless the two sizes were placed next to each other. But I'll bet I'd be able to feel the extra 11lbs on each corner!

 

Yeah this really depends though on brand, those sizes in a K02 are ~3lbs different. 54.5 vs 57.3 I love the bfgoodrich AT tires but the weight of those vs open country AT2 at like 43 lbs has me wondering. I have plenty of time to decide though.

[robvas]

No doubt that the truck looks way better with the bigger tires. So wimpy looking with the stock tires, and with the stock 'Chevy lean'.

[crushNchowda]

 

 

While it hurts me to say so, because I really wanted to stuff the biggest tire I could get into my wheel wells, this makes so much sense. And a tire that is 1" taller is only going to add 1/2" of ground clearance. I was set on Duratracs 275/65/20 but the fear of the rougher ride and MPG hit were holding me back. Now I'm 99.5% certain 275/60/20 are the ticket. I just pulled out a ruler and truly looked at the difference and don't think there is a person alive that could see the difference unless the two sizes were placed next to each other. But I'll bet I'd be able to feel the extra 11lbs on each corner!

 

Again - it'll vary slightly w/ tire brand, but 275/55 stock is 6" sidewall, 275/60 is 6.5", and 275/65 is 7" - so you gain a 1/2" in height each size you go up.

 

 

 

Yeah this really depends though on brand, those sizes in a K02 are ~3lbs different. 54.5 vs 57.3 I love the bfgoodrich AT tires but the weight of those vs open country AT2 at like 43 lbs has me wondering. I have plenty of time to decide though.

Very true, and while I also like the looks of the "extreme" toyo open countrys, micky thompson baja, the BFG's - they're all WAY too heavy, The hankook dynapro, the nitto terra grappler, and the toyo open country are all between 41-43 lbs in 275/60 vs. 57-61 lbs for the 275/65 size the stock wrangler SRA's in 275/55 are 39 or 40 lbs can't remember exactly, So no tangible difference picking one of the lighter version AT tires in 275/60 size, you get the better grip from the AT tread, you get the look you want, and you get the extra 1/2" height.

 

 

 

No doubt that the truck looks way better with the bigger tires. So wimpy looking with the stock tires, and with the stock 'Chevy lean'.

LOL - this is exactly what I was joking about w/ the "poser" comment. The stock rake I agree is just too much, and the GM trucks do seem to sit lower than any other brand, but the guy in the same truck w/ the "wimpy" tires vs. a leveled truck rolling on 60lb boulder tires will wipe the floor w/ ya stoplight to stoplight every time....

 

AT the end of the day I think going w/ an AT tire brand that offers a lighter weight 275/60 version is a very good compromise after leveling - I'd rather have a truck that pulls just as hard as it did stock as it does leveled w/ bilsteins & 275/60's gaining 2.5" total height (3" if you do a 2.5" level) vs. a truck dropping 2mpg's and 1/2 a second to 60/.7 in the 1/4 running 275/65's sitting 1/2" higher

[J.Wilhelm]

I went with the Toyo Open Country AT2 305/50/20 for this reason. The tire is essentially a 32"x12"x20 is much lighter that the 6ply tire only lost 1MPG with the Fuel Wheel and Tire combo over stock 17's and they look a hell of a lot better. Plus they have a 65,000 mile warranty vs 50,000 on the LT tire.

[quail hound]

Putting a 33" tire on these trucks isn't going to kill its drivabiity and you'll still have plenty of power to spin your wheels and clear mud. Remember the 90s when 200hp was a lot and we all still went mudding with our 33s? I'm sure I use my truck off road more than most but it's fun driving to a pristine lake in the high Sierras that everyone claims nothing short of a Rubicon on 35s can make it too. Sometimes I do wish for a bit more ground clearance to keep rooks out of the body but if you drive carefully it's pretty rare. Here's where I put the only rock into my '05.

 

 

[Jon A]

Typing & talking always interpreted differently -

 

I agree. Your post seemed rude when I read it, but it's possible you meant it more tongue in cheek than I took it.

 

 

If that is the case - if you're spending 90% (hell even 70%) of the time on paved roads it is my recommendation that the very slight increased in height you gain from using 275/65 vs. 275/60 is entirely not worth the drop in MPG, "driveability", or loss in power...and how/why would you argue otherwise?

 

It depends upon the user and what's important to him. Here are some reasons it may be worth it:

 

1) For some, going offroad isn't about having fun playing with your friends in your spare time, it's about getting somewhere you need to be. Often solo. In this use, added offroad capability may be looked upon much the way you look upon your seatbelt and airbags--you hope you never really need to use them, but if you ever do you'll be glad you have them! Or akin to hanging 500 lbs of bumper and winch on the front of the vehicle--even if you only use the winch a couple times in the life of the vehicle, there's a good chance you really, really needed it at those times. Or if you only hit one deer the entire life of the vehicle, you'll be patting yourself on the back for putting on that bumper since the deer didn't come through the grill, damage the radiator and leave you stranded in the middle of nowhere.

 

If there's even a small chance that added offroad capability makes the difference between getting stuck or not, if you're in the mountains miles away from the nearest person where there's no cellphone coverage...that's everything.

 

2) The weight difference you're talking about has less to do with the size of the tire and more to do with the construction--comparing E rated 10 ply "truck tires" to P rated "car tires." Yes, the car tires handle and ride better and will give better mileage....when empty. If you haul much or tow heavy trailers, the truck tires will handle much better when doing that and add another layer of safety. That may be well worth it alone.

 

3) This ties in with #1: With the 10 ply "truck tire" a sharp stick or rock is much less likely to leave you changing a tire on the trail in the middle of nowhere (which can really ruin your day). The peace of mind alone of using a tougher tire may be worthwhile allowing you to enjoy yourself more and worry less when offroad.

 

Even if you do use the truck as a commuter car on paved roads 90% of the time, the reason you likely bought a truck instead of a car is to do that other 10%. Doing that 10% more competently and with a larger margin of safety may be very well worth it to you.

 

Even with car tires on it, a full-sized pickup makes a pretty lousy commuter car. If you want the ultimate commuter car, a mid-sized sedan really does everything better. Or if you want a drag racer....again, buy a car.

[amfr]

This is what I have to say regarding this topic, in general. I have had a number of trucks, this is the first one that I have "lifted" (all I did was do bilstein 5100's max setting + 2.25" rear block kit) & after doing so wanted to add a "beefier" AT tire to fill out the wheel wells more, look more aggressive, and ride better/handle better in rough road conditions vs. the craptastic stock SRA's.

While I don't have alot of experience modding/lifting trucks, I have LOTS of experience w/ performance cars/sportbikes. I already knew WELL ahead of going through this mod process what excess unsprung weight can do to a vehicles SOTP feel and overall performance. To see what 20" wheels will do to the 1/4 mile times of a vette vs. 17"s, or the difference magnesium wheels make on a sportsbike, - without having to point out the DRASTIC weight difference between those 2 examples vs. a 6000 lb 1/2 ton pickup - well lets just say I have already voiced my opinion I think its "LOL" that anyone would really try and argue a vehicle is going to perform better offroad if really pushed w/ those heavy ass tires w/o any power adders/additional mods - its a joke. Wow you got big badass looking tires but you literally neutered the power of your vehicle by 15% I mean so what if you got better mud traction you don't have equal power to pull yourself outta iT!!! If you can lose 1/2 a second in the 1/4 from going up 10 lbs on each corner in a 3200 lb vette w/ more HP than your 5800 lbs truck, what the hell do you think will happen w/ the heavy ass less powerful truck when you add nearly 20 lbs to each corner!!!!

 

Everything in life is a Ying and Yang.

 

Unless you're dealing w/ an already porky heavy tire equipped HD diesel that can EASILY makeup the power loss w/ a handheld tuner/more boost (and already has deeper gearing/massive torque), or unless you're committed to actually making the drivetrain match the huge tires you're strapping to the truck (& in the case of these 1/2 tons going from a stock 38 lb tire to a 57-62lb tire that equates to CAI/tune/LT headers min) you may as well relegate yourself to the fact that you're spending the coin and installing the tires for "show" not "go" - and that they are an overall performance detractor not enhancer, well then you're better off just avoiding the P/L rated whatever tires and getting something a tad smaller instead and not adding all that unsprung weight.

For me a perfect compromise was the 275/60r20 Nitto Terra grapplers - weigh like 42 lbs - not a huge difference, now the 275/65 version that weigh in @ 57-60 lbs (depending on what site you look at) - well that's a different story.

 

Food for thought.

 

Yes it'll ,make a difference, yes you'll lose power/performance, yes you'll lose MPG's, yes you'll notice it immediately, yes it'll shift "different". Jeep wranglers are a bit different - weigh MUCH less to begin w/, are geared MUCH more aggressively from the factory to begin w/, are solid rear axle front/rear, have heavier wheel/tire setups from the factory to begin w/, & are slow as sh*t to begin w/ anyhow - less of factor...I also assume (slash hope) that the Jeep you reference was a stick....also makes a difference in how it'll feel when adding unsprung weight.

If you're OK w/ all that and are going to make up for it w/ some power adders to even it out, or are just OK w/ the fact you neutered your truck a bit for the sake of aesthetics, more power to you.

Otherwise fully understand what I am saying is true and go for the lighter 1/2 ton version - hankook dynapro or toyo open country and nitto terras all come in a much lighter 275/60 version I believe.

 

People may try and convince you otherwise, but its physics. It is proven in dragslips. It's racing 101.

 

So ask yourself - are you a poser or a performance guy?

I like it. Only observation is it could be less insulting to those that just want a visual upgrade and already have ample power and won't utilize 100% of the power and won't mind 15% power loss. I'm looking at upgrading my tires but I want to stick with a highway tire something like the mikey thompson mtx I think...their highway version I'm not sure on weight but I would really like to pair it with a lighter weight wheel to offset the added weight of the tire. I would also go up in size just a tad to fill out the wheel well. Something like 32....or 32.9....not too big

 

sent from Florida beech

[zack89]

Thanks for the info guys I think I'm gonna go with the 275/65/20. Coming from the jeep and that this truck lights the rear wheels up no problem and I feel it has plenty of power. If I wanted to race I would of got a car. Thanks again for all the help these forums are great

[crushNchowda]

Thanks for the info guys I think I'm gonna go with the 275/65/20. Coming from the jeep and that this truck lights the rear wheels up no problem and I feel it has plenty of power. If I wanted to race I would of got a car. Thanks again for all the help these forums are great

 

 

Yeah - not sure what year your jeep is, but anything other than the pentastar V6 motor feels pretty weak compared to either 5.3 or 6.2 truck, even w/ the penta the Jeeps are geared so short w/ such a low redline, they're not "fast" - torquey/quick (@ certain speeds) - but night & day to a truck especially if you had bigass tires on the jeep.

 

My buddy has a wrangler w/ the penta V6 ad 6 speed manual and pretty beefy lift/tires (not sure sizes) - he added headers/exhaust/intake/programmer to it seemed to help for sure

 

 

Good luck w/ the truck I do think they look MUCH better leveled & w/ decent AT's!!!!

 

Post pics of the setup after

[mikepol2]

Hey has anybody run 275/60-20 with no suspension lift? Wondering if I'll get any rub.

[zack89]

Will do. Ya my jeep had the 3.8 engine and 3.21 gears so it was going nowhere quick. I did have a sprint booster on it and I don't care what anyone says seat of the pants feel was incredible it was night and day from on and off. So I was debating on getting on for the truck but I'll probably wait and see once tires are on. I got a quote for 275/65/20

1400 installed for the ko2 in Ontario. Which I thought as a great deal. But I also have been looking at the Mickey Thompson atzp3

[Coppertone]

Intriguing dialogue here, and now I'm more undecided on 275 60 vs. 65 than ever.

[Johnnynovo]

Another option would be the General Grabber AT2 tires in 275/65/20. They are a snow rated tire that has almost identical tread pattern to the BFGs and go for $300 cheaper per set around here. Not biased but if money is a factor, just something to check out

[Coppertone]

Another option would be the General Grabber AT2 tires in 275/65/20. They are a snow rated tire that has almost identical tread pattern to the BFGs and go for $300 cheaper per set around here. Not biased but is money is a factor, just something to check out

 

 

Thanks for the heads up, but damn, they're 5 lbs heavier per tire thank KO2s, too.