Jump to content

Another Great catch can option


Recommended Posts

Posted

Tried out a UPR products Billet catch can, its great!

 

Made in usa

Has internal baffle and A stainless mesh for oil drip

Drain valve

Has the capacity of a beer can.

Bracket works perfect

109.99 on ebay with 3/8 300psi hose and hose separators

 

 

Figured id share this can for people who dont want to buy the expensive rx can or the Chinese addW1.

Posted

I've yet to have an issue with my ADD W1 catch can. It's all aluminum construction is very durable. But this looks like a great option as well!!

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Posted

 

 

Host images on photobucket and link to them. No problems whatsoever.

Posted

 

 

Host images on photobucket and link to them. No problems whatsoever

 

for some reason i couldent get pics to load from my computer to photobucket.

Posted

how was the install? did you just follow the instructions for another catch can?

Posted

how was the install? did you just follow the instructions for another catch can?

 

Every catch can is hooked up the same way. Just depends on where you mount your can and run your lines.

Posted

I like the clamp holding the hoses together, where did you get that?

Posted

it came with all clamps and the mount to the fender bolt. the can was made for a Tahoe 5.3 but works mint in our trucks

Posted

So is this as efficient as the RX can? I only have 1000 miles and am thinking that I want to do this. Problem is, I don't want to spend $379 if I can get one for $110 that does the same thing.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,782
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Newest Member
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 6,049 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I was around and remember that era very well, so I'm calling b/s on that statement. If they were that bad no police department or taxi company would've bought a single one ... but they were used in both services (and fire) for DECADES. They were bulletproof and proven. Even the early 21st century ones weren't too bad! The early models were legendary.   Mine is proof, but people like atlas are blinded by agenda and refuse to believe facts right before their very eyes.   Even decades after they were built, a new generation started driving them, posting all their builds and shenanigans on Grandmarq.net and Crownvic.net. The failures would show up then, since they all were deep past 100k-150k miles by that point, and younger drivers tend to be a little aggressive, especially with vehicles than can lay a one-tire fire for as long as you hold your foot in it. They've more than proven themselves over the decades.   The only thing that'll really take them out is road salt. The bodies and sheet metal were garbage. A victim of the cheapout FoMoCo and GM have been partaking in before then, and since.   Today it's the stuff that counts - the undercarriage that rots away first!    GMs Caprice was no slouch either. Reliable as a stone ax - the opposite of what they build now.    
    • Let me know how your vehicles do in 10 years. You don't know ******, kid. 😂    There's a reason that Panther platform was used as police, fire, and taxi service for DECADES ... long before you were born, apparently.
    • If your connector also has a big lever to get the connector on and off, you don't want to force the lever either way, as it becomes a bigger problem if you bust the lever or the mechanism it works.
    • It's just useful to disconnect the battery to prevent odd shorting out when unplugging/plugging stuff together.  I also  touch the two cable ends together (after disonnecting) to drain the small amount of stored battery energy in various modules.   I believe the main system where you need to be more concerned with, so you need to do the above and then wait some time, iss when you are working on the air bag system, to prevent inadvertent firing of the air bags.   The in-cab switches are just that, plain switches, it's generally not a problem to swap them in/out.  For my '12, I'll get an error message on the dash if I power up the truck w them unplugged, but that's it (power up= turn the ignition on).   The ITBC located above the spare tire is a computer that manages the trailer brake system.  That is probably more important to have the battery disconnected.  It does have to be programmed to the truck, either before or after it's installed, for it to work.  For my '12, I had a very hard time reinstalling the main connector to it (IDK if yours is the same or not), it turned out the silicon seal was jamming up, preventing it from going on all the way.  I finally got it fully installed by lubing the seal with a bit of dielectric grease, then it slid on and latched in place easily.
    • JR ! I just got the truck back from the Dealership today . The technician did a cold remote start on the truck this morning and it made the noise . It was determined that it was a starter issue and replaced it under warranty . Of course   it did not make the sound after a new starter was put in because the truck was not cold . We will we see what happens tomorrow morning when I start the truck cold  . Keep tuned !   Oh I found a video on YouTube of a cold start and it did the same thing your truck and mine do , I will see if I can find it and post it up
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...