Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Sad thing for our Ford friends is they cannot use a chemical direct induced valve cleaner such as Seafoam, CRC or Gumout as the chemicals in these products may run the turbo system. Lots of discussions on f150forum.com about this.

 

hmmm.....Gm reconfigured the intake/outlet ports on their heads to minimize the problem recently......hmmm.....go check out the Ford Ecoboost boys forums all coked up at 50,000K.....hmmmm Ferd's new 3.5 EB has completely addressed this seemingly made up problem of GDI's coking the valves to Mt Rushmore granite hardness!All of which are facts and all of which can be found on the internet......interesting!

Edited by Silverado Steve
Posted

I'll let you all know down the road how mine does. No catch can,no valve cleaning going to change oil and drive it. Just like I have done with all my other trucks.

  • Like 1
Posted

Just under 2800 miles on my 2016 now in just over 5 weeks.................................I can count the miles on ONE HAND that my truck has been in V4 mode. I use M5 exclusively around suburbia empty and towing my work trailer, as my speeds rarely exceed 50mph. I use the "Range" AFM delete device for long highway travels in order to use the 6th gear!!!

 

The oil level on my dip stick hasn't changed at all since ownership. I added an Elite catch can though at less than 500 miles on the clock.

Posted

I'll let you all know down the road how mine does. No catch can,no valve cleaning going to change oil and drive it. Just like I have done with all my other trucks.

I'm running a similar experiment with a coworker. He and I have the exact same truck. He's maintaining his like you normally would...87 octane gas from wherever, regular oil changes, no valve cleaning, no catch can, etc. I'm running 89 shell gas exclusively, catch can, and BG induction services every 15k miles to maintain the valves. I have about 34k miles and he has about 50k. We're going to see how both trucks are doing around 100k to see if what I've been doing has been worth it or a total waste of money. I'll keep the forum updated as well.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 7
Posted

Well I've had my truck for a couple months, and I've put about 6000 miles on it. So I should find out how the valves do in short order lol.

Posted

I'm running a similar experiment with a coworker. He and I have the exact same truck. He's maintaining his like you normally would...87 octane gas from wherever, regular oil changes, no valve cleaning, no catch can, etc. I'm running 89 shell gas exclusively, catch can, and BG induction services every 15k miles to maintain the valves. I have about 34k miles and he has about 50k. We're going to see how both trucks are doing around 100k to see if what I've been doing has been worth it or a total waste of money. I'll keep the forum updated as well.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Would love to hear about this!

Posted

I will it may take some time seeing as I drive about 13,000 miles a year on average haha. But I will post a new thread about it regarding long term results.

Posted

It is weird with these engines. My wife has a 2011 Acadia with 60,000 miles on it no engine problems what so ever. My mom has a 2011 traverse with 40,000 miles on it. Had to have the valves cleaned, dealer said they were full of carbon on them. She also used gas where ever she could get it the cheapest. My wife has only ever used top tier fuel. So maybe it does work..who knows.

Posted

It is weird with these engines. My wife has a 2011 Acadia with 60,000 miles on it no engine problems what so ever. My mom has a 2011 traverse with 40,000 miles on it. Had to have the valves cleaned, dealer said they were full of carbon on them. She also used gas where ever she could get it the cheapest. My wife has only ever used top tier fuel. So maybe it does work..who knows.

neither of those have DI engines

  • Like 3
Posted

1fbe26e3f2990ac9dbde22e87c18e39e.jpg

 

That's about 24000 miles on my 6.2... The intake valves look just fine.

 

Sent from my PURE XL using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

neither of those have DI engines

I'm pretty sure on top of the plastic cover that's on top of engine says"VVT direct injection 3.6." Is this not the same type?
Posted (edited)

As an owner of one of the first DI's hitting the market in '07 (BMW 335i) I'll give you the readers digest version of all this hoopla. The gas you run never touches the valves so don't get to caught up on that front, worry about the octane and freshness for your use. Only walnut blasting is the remedy. How often.... that's a subjective item that depends on YOUR car and actual carbon build up. I went 65k on my 335i and never had issues. The BMW dealers have special blasting equipment and walnut media. (Google walnut blast 335i) For a 335i, it was approx a $900 job at the dealer, $500 at the indies. Intake manifold comes off, blast the valves and reassemble. The only OTC medicine is CRC's German mechanic in a can. $14 later, it seems to work, especially if you use it more frequently than trying to use it every 50k. I've used one can on my K2XX and am due for another now. The consensus on the E90 forum was IIRC 50k intervals for blasting cars with no symptoms. Again, camera your valves and make your own decision. The only preventative measures you can do is run a catch can. I opted for a ADD W1 can with some baffle material. the amount of oil it catches in one oil change is mind boggling. I've spent WAY too much of my life on this topic. I read stuff where Toyota was toying with putting in an injector behind the throttle body to combat this long-term issue in their engines (Guess Toyota wants to keep that brand reputation of long term longevity). This is an issue that will affect the people who keep their vehicles longer than the warranty. So at the end of the day, the fuel injection has come full circle. From a TBI, to SFI, to TPI, then the DI and now we're back to where we started in 1987. An injector in the throttle body. My '14 has almost 52k on it now (yes I drive a lot). No issues on this front. I'm also confidenced a lot of Hwy driving and a pair of heavy Red Wings help combat the issue. I recommenced the USA made Red Wings model 606, they really help prevent carbon build up... my truck is proof. In all seriousness, some people get way too worked up over this. I've seen this on two forums now since 2007. The sky still hasn't fallen, 335i's are still running around and so are DI cars from GM and other makers. Install a catch can, run the CRC stuff frequently and sport your 606 red wings on the skinny pedal. Move on in life.

 

This topic makes me always think of something an older guy I work with tells people. Sometimes technology is not always better. In the 1960's the US spent $12M to develop a pen that wrote in space. Guess what the Russians used? A F'n pencil.

Edited by FL335i
  • Like 4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...