Jump to content

Right Axel on? Manufacturer put the wrong axle? or Dealership?


TexasMidnight

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello I bought a new Truck from a few months ago it the GMC 2500HD 2016 had 15 miles on when I bought it. Right now I have 1,015 miles on it and the axle looks funny it look like someone put a used one on it? Or the manufacturer put the wrong axle on?

It sure does feel funny when I drive off it feel like the 6 speed gears a little short or to high. Do I have automatic lockers on it?

Do I have the right axle on this?


I look at all the other truck seam like mine is smaller or something. Doesn't look right. I find rusted spot on it too. I feel very disappointed.

Could anyone please help me with some information?

post-163716-0-36762200-1479419250_thumb.jpg

post-163716-0-15424600-1479419259_thumb.jpg

post-163716-0-74418100-1479419308_thumb.jpg

post-163716-0-79624600-1479419394_thumb.jpg

post-163716-0-36762200-1479419250_thumb.jpg

post-163716-0-15424600-1479419259_thumb.jpg

post-163716-0-74418100-1479419308_thumb.jpg

post-163716-0-79624600-1479419394_thumb.jpg

post-163716-0-36762200-1479419250_thumb.jpg

post-163716-0-15424600-1479419259_thumb.jpg

post-163716-0-74418100-1479419308_thumb.jpg

post-163716-0-79624600-1479419394_thumb.jpg

post-163716-0-36762200-1479419250_thumb.jpg

post-163716-0-15424600-1479419259_thumb.jpg

post-163716-0-74418100-1479419308_thumb.jpg

post-163716-0-79624600-1479419394_thumb.jpg

Posted

2500HD w 6.0L get the 10.5". The 3500s and all 6.6L Duramax get the 11.5" as far as I know.

Posted

Seems odd that the axle would have rust on it that quick or that the paint looks faded after a thousand miles.

 

Not sure about Ft. Wayne or Flint, but the axles were never exposed to the elements (stored outside) in Oshawa.

Posted

I remember my dealership swapping a defective axle with a rust spot into a summit white 2016 2500 a little while back ago. I still wonder who got stuck with that truck.

Is it from Anson? I it better not be me.That sucks.

 

 

Seems odd that the axle would have rust on it that quick or that the paint looks faded after a thousand miles.

 

Not sure about Ft. Wayne or Flint, but the axles were never exposed to the elements (stored outside) in Oshawa.

Yeah no kidden. I thought it was used. I never drove into the mud or some serious water puddle. When I saw this.. I was sad. I look all over the under of the truck I seen some rust spot on the axle and the hub that bolted on the wheels that connected the breaks. I feel like they forget to paint it? Or rushed it and forget to take the rust off and then paint it. But now I wonder if my dealership did swap out parts on this truck. For now on when I buy a truck or car. I look everywhere. I never buy GMC again.. I had nothing but problems with this Truck.

 

The problems:

Radio sometime restart while driving

The Alignment pulled to the left. Sent back to a different dealerships 5 times. When you step on the breaks it pulled to the left. I even argue with them about it seam like they are lazy to fix it and they lie about it they rotated the tire so many times.The steering wheel or power steering is weak. It like it not strong enough to take bumps and ruff roads heavy twists from any on going roads.

Both left door are lose can hear air while driving and it lose. When you hit pot hole it shake you can hear it hit the panel of the cab. Or the door looks bent doesn't look flushed or straight on to the cab.

My muffler make a popping sound very 8 to 15 sec you can hear a dinging sound while it get hot. It like some piece of metal is lose it wasn't wielded good.

Now this rusted Axel.

Who knows whats next

 

 

 

 

Posted

Seems odd that the axle would have rust on it that quick or that the paint looks faded after a thousand miles.

 

Not sure about Ft. Wayne or Flint, but the axles were never exposed to the elements (stored outside) in Oshawa.

These parts sit outside at the manf. plant and sit outside at the assembly plant till they are needed. They been exposed to the elements long before they get put on the truck. Also the truck could be been exposed to rain, snow and road salt on it way to the dealer. So rust is not unusual, they do not consider surface rust to be a problem other than cosmetic.

Posted

There is nothing wrong with the axle. It's cast iron and cast iron parts will get surface rust if unprotected and sadly, GM's frame/chassis coating sucks. My Jeep is the same way looking like crap from new.

Posted

There is nothing wrong with the axle. It's cast iron and cast iron parts will get surface rust if unprotected and sadly, GM's frame/chassis coating sucks. My Jeep is the same way looking like crap from new.

Right on man. It looks like I need to get under there and sand it out and put on some undercoat or some paint on it and put on a black aluminum differential cover kit on it and add some real gear oil in it.

Posted

These parts sit outside at the manf. plant and sit outside at the assembly plant till they are needed. They been exposed to the elements long before they get put on the truck. Also the truck could be been exposed to rain, snow and road salt on it way to the dealer. So rust is not unusual, they do not consider surface rust to be a problem other than cosmetic.

Our plant (and most auto plants) run "just in time". Parts do not sit around until they're needed.

Posted

Our plant (and most auto plants) run "just in time". Parts do not sit around until they're needed.

This is true of the assembly plant but not necessarily the suppliers I'd think, especially for something as complex as an axle where the housing may be cast in one facility and then shipped elsewhere to do final assembly.

 

For example my Wrangler was built in March 2015, I ordered it. But as I've had it apart to do mods I find some items with production stamps as recent as earlier in the day my Jeep was built (back seat) to the previous fall for generic stuff like trim.

Posted

 

 

This is true of the assembly plant but not necessarily the suppliers I'd think, especially for something as complex as an axle where the housing may be cast in one facility and then shipped elsewhere to do final assembly.

Exactly.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...