Jump to content

So I finally grew enough balls to bake my headlights...

ottawasierra

By ottawasierra
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

ottawasierra Enthusiast

ottawasierra

Posted
Posted

Baked my headlights and removed the orange reflector and painted the housing black. It took a lot of effort, but I'm really happy with how it turned out. Sorry for the dirty truck and the crappy pics, it won't stop snowing here.

 

EgJ6eE.jpg

 

ZRUHqk.jpg

 

RskPj6.jpg

 

HvEico.jpg

  • Like 4
  • Replies 34
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

ottawasierra
ottawasierra

Baked my headlights and removed the orange reflector and painted the housing black. It took a lot of effort, but I'm really happy with how it turned out. Sorry for the dirty truck and the crappy pic

linkz1
linkz1

Looks good man! I've been wanting to do mine with FXRs and to add halo rings and clear the signals.

My18Silverado
My18Silverado

Posted Images

Colossus Senior Enthusiast

Colossus

Posted
Posted

So you had no balls before, eh? What a shame. Usually they are done growing by the time you hit 15..

  • Like 1
chrislcrews Enthusiast

chrislcrews

Posted
Posted

There's always one smart ass...don't you have anything better to do?

Interested!!

 

What temp did you bake them and what is the process? Did you just pop them in the oven? And for how long and what did you use to re seal?

 

All info welcomed. Looking to maybe swapping out my anzo with stock that are custom if I can

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ottawasierra Enthusiast

ottawasierra

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Interested!!

 

What temp did you bake them and what is the process? Did you just pop them in the oven? And for how long and what did you use to re seal?

 

All info welcomed. Looking to maybe swapping out my anzo with stock that are custom if I can

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I baked them at a bunch of different temperatures trying to find the best. It seems the length of time in the oven mattered more then the temperature. I found 18 mins at around 250 worked the best. I was really scared to crack the lense so I went slow and had to keep putting them back in the oven. You only get about 4 mins before the seal hardens again. I just used a flat head screw driver and went all the way around loosening the seal. Then once I had it loose I started to pry the lense off working my way around slowly. Then the silver part just unscrews from the lense. I also painted one side of the LED reflector. I painted the side where the LEDs poke through so that the black reflected on the chrome housings and made them look dark without affecting the light output.

As for putting them back together I bought the moronic retro rubber from the retrofit source. You heat it up for a couple mins in the oven and then I just pressed it into the channel where the lense goes. Then I baked the bottom back half of the lights with the retro rubber in the oven for 10 mins without the lense. Got the retro rubber all mushy and I was able to squish the lense in and start the screws to hold it on the right spot. Then I baked the whole things for 15 mins to fully soften the stock sealant and then squished together and finished screwing in the screws and securing the clips.

Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.

  • Like 1
ottawasierra Enthusiast

ottawasierra

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Get Klearz so you don't have that unfinished look!

I didn't like the look of the clears, make it look cheap and "ricer" looking. But that's just my opinion. Plus they are crazy expensive.

bc-chris Enthusiast

bc-chris

Posted
Posted

this looks great!

 

i'm planning on baking my headlights at some point next year, just not sure when

cid.yamaha Enthusiast

cid.yamaha

Posted
Posted

I baked them at a bunch of different temperatures trying to find the best. It seems the length of time in the oven mattered more then the temperature. I found 18 mins at around 250 worked the best. I was really scared to crack the lense so I went slow and had to keep putting them back in the oven. You only get about 4 mins before the seal hardens again. I just used a flat head screw driver and went all the way around loosening the seal. Then once I had it loose I started to pry the lense off working my way around slowly. Then the silver part just unscrews from the lense. I also painted one side of the LED reflector. I painted the side where the LEDs poke through so that the black reflected on the chrome housings and made them look dark without affecting the light output.

As for putting them back together I bought the moronic retro rubber from the retrofit source. You heat it up for a couple mins in the oven and then I just pressed it into the channel where the lense goes. Then I baked the bottom back half of the lights with the retro rubber in the oven for 10 mins without the lense. Got the retro rubber all mushy and I was able to squish the lense in and start the screws to hold it on the right spot. Then I baked the whole things for 15 mins to fully soften the stock sealant and then squished together and finished screwing in the screws and securing the clips.

Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.

I want to do this is I just can't figure out how to put them back together . Do u have the link of the seal u used to reseal them ? And any Better pics by any chance ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • BIGBOYS
      Doors lock and mirrors fold in while driving

      By BIGBOYS · Posted

      I have a 2015 Silverado and sometimes I can not get in to the truck. I use the key to unlock the driver door. Something is locking the truck when I unlock it, last night I left the truck open and this morning it was locked with the mirrors folded in. This happens while driving so it is now a safety issue. I reach down for the folding button and they open, then they close again.  Any advice, thank you,   Ed
    • Paul8556
      Headlight issue...

      By Paul8556 · Posted

      Did you ever find a resolution to this? my 2019 Silverado 1500 is showing the exact same headlights issues with the exact same symptoms.  would help a ton if anyone has any advice on this or better yet a known solution..
    • RyanbabZ71
      Gas Prices

      By RyanbabZ71 · Posted

      Wawa and Meijer here have ethanol free (88 & 89) I use for my mower and lawn equipment.  Its not much more than reg.  I paid $3.29 a few weeks ago.  
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • William Aldrich
      Bent valve in 2025 GMC Canyon Denali - Requires engine swap at 14K miles

      By William Aldrich · Posted

      NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...