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Message added by Zane,

Hey all — this question comes up regularly, so we've put together a full reference covering lug nut torque, bolt patterns, stud sizes, and socket sizes for every Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, Escalade, Colorado, and Canyon from 1999 through 2026.

👉 GM Truck Lug Nut Torque Specs: 1500, HD, SUVs (1999–2026)

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Posted

I saw a post the other day talking about the lug nut torque specs and it has had me thinking..Is it really a big deal? I know they need to be tight enough so a wheel doesn't fly off but is there more to it than that? I have changed wheels several times over the years and have never had an issue not putting a torque wrench to the lugs. I personally haven't witnessed a tire shop do it either...So help me understand if there is a good reason to torque exactly to the recommended number or is it enough to make sure they are tight. Is using the impact wrench too much or not enough? Thanks

Posted (edited)

I always torqued mine. Something my dad taught me and it has just stuck, and also it's one of those "better to be safe then sorry...or dead." It takes an additional 5min tops so why not just do it.

Edited by mweaver1917
Posted

I have a specially calibrated 18" craftsman breaker bar that torques the bolts perfectly.

 

I don't even know what the torque is supposed to be, but after 5 different vehicles, I have yet to have a lug-nut loosen up on me.

 

I know the shops put them on tighter with the impact guns, because they are slightly harder to remove after I have service done. but I think most shops actually over-tighten them.

Posted (edited)

I have a specially calibrated 18" craftsman breaker bar that torques the bolts perfectly.

 

I don't even know what the torque is supposed to be, but after 5 different vehicles, I have yet to have a lug-nut loosen up on me.

 

I know the shops put them on tighter with the impact guns, because they are slightly harder to remove after I have service done. but I think most shops actually over-tighten them.

I was wondering the actual spec as well as I learned to torque them at 120. I looked it up and these full size trucks are 140 rated. I think 120 would probably be fine, but spec is 140. The Canyon is 100 even.

Edited by mweaver1917
Posted

I use a torque wrench whenever practical. I have a tendency to over-tighten. I worry more about stretching threads or breaking bolts than things falling apart!

Posted

The torque spec is there so a wheel doesn't come off PLUS so you don't snap the stud or stretch it. It is definitely there for a reason. With that said I just use my impact gun to tighten them down. Let the comments fly now as to why I don't torque them to the proper number. Simply because I know what my impact is capable of doing so I trust it. I've been doing this for years on many trucks and work vans with no wheels falling off

 

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  • Like 5
Posted

Torquing evenly prevents rotor warp also. I torque the alloy wheels at 100 and the steelies at 110. Never lost a wheel and never broke a stud.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Warped rotors, loose wheels, wheels that fall off...YES...TORQUE YOUR WHEELS!!!!

 

And don't make up a spec either...use the OEM spec.

Edited by 15HDriver
  • Like 3
Posted

 

Whether manufacturing a product or maintaining one the proper torque should always be applied. It will guarantee even wear on fasteners and prevent bolt heads from snapping off.

Posted (edited)

I ALWAYS use a torque wrench on mine. Specially after its been to the dealer or the tire shop and they messed with them. I always find them torqued unevenly.

 

On my 2000 sierra i kept having warped rotors from just guessing. After i replaced the rotors and used a torque wrench all of those issues went away.

 

If you want a good torque wrench that isnt crazy money look into CDI Torque Products they make them for snapon at half the cost.I also have a huskey which i use often. Stay away from harbor frieght stuff. If it didnt need to be torqued to some specified requirement they wouldnt go to the trouble to list it. And your impact gun isnt going to cut it. Those just lead to over and uneven tightening, stripped threads, snapped off studs.

 

I do use a very long bar to loosen them though. I have a bad back so i need the extra leverage to undo them.

 

Never had a stripped,broken, or loose lug nut ever after buying and using the right tools. I know others will say its not needed but thats what I do.

 

on a 2000+ 1500 truck its 140ft/lbs im sure its different on the heavy duty.

Edited by ericw
Posted

And don't make up a spec either...use the OEM spec.

 

This! About everything! Some people just think making up their own numbers and a small set of personal experiences makes them right or their suggestion better than OEM. So ridiculous.

Posted

And don't make up a spec either...use the OEM spec.

 

 

This! About everything! Some people just think making up their own numbers and a small set of personal experiences makes them right or their suggestion better than OEM. So ridiculous.

I searched the web and found the 140 number. I will admit I am not sure what it is in the book, but the interweb believes it to be 140.

Posted

anybody ever use a torque wrench to figure out how tight the shops run them on with an impact gun? I'm willing to bet it's higher than required.

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