Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I remember seeing someone say the other day that there was no neutral for the HD transfer cases. I can't find that post now, but I knew that wasn't the case. All you have to do is put the transmission into neutral, then turn the t-case selector knob from 2 - high all the way to the right, past 4-low. There's a spring loaded spot there. Once you have it there, you need to hold it until the t-case shifts. [emoji2] a070fe7d0cb02c274be4dbf35b535dfa.jpg001a7b15229ebaba05014db61366b8b3.jpg

 

Sent from my STH100-1 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I remember seeing someone say the other day that there was no neutral for the HD transfer cases. I can't find that post now, but I knew that wasn't the case. All you have to do is put the transmission into neutral, then turn the t-case selector knob from 2 - high all the way to the right, past 4-low. There's a spring loaded spot there. Once you have it there, you need to hold it until the t-case shifts. [emoji2] a070fe7d0cb02c274be4dbf35b535dfa.jpg001a7b15229ebaba05014db61366b8b3.jpg

 

Sent from my STH100-1 using Tapatalk

That was me that posted in the 'what did you miss from previous truck' thread (or something like that). I hadn't really noticed the N on the switch on my '17since it's not readily noticeable.

 

I was able to switch it into N, not quite as quick as my other trucks. There is no 'Neutral' message displayed on the Offroad screen of the DIC on mine. I'll have to ask my brother about it on his '16.

 

I like my old fashion lever. No guessing.

 

 

And, well, I'm old.

LOL Old school like me.

Edited by revrnd
  • Like 1
Posted

When I took delivery of my truck I asked the sales guy how to put transfer case into Neutral (didn't notice the "N" on the knob). He said you couldn't. Then I read the Owners Manual.

  • Like 1
Posted

Im curious why the need for neutral? Just thinking out loud here, I have 3 chevy 4x4 trucks in our family but cant remember ever even needing a neutral.

Posted

If vehicle ever needs to be towed with two or four wheels on the ground you need to place the t-case in neutral to prevent destroying it. Without the ability to put it in neutral your only option is to pull the driveshaft(s).

Posted

Im curious why the need for neutral? Just thinking out loud here, I have 3 chevy 4x4 trucks in our family but cant remember ever even needing a neutral.

 

Comes in handy if you want to flat tow it behind a motorhome. That is the main reason I buy Jeep's with 4x4 and a transfer case that has a neutral. I have seen some folks towing an HD 4x4 pickup.

Posted

 

Comes in handy if you want to flat tow it behind a motorhome. That is the main reason I buy Jeep's with 4x4 and a transfer case that has a neutral. I have seen some folks towing an HD 4x4 pickup.

That's the main reason they have neutral

Posted

Well learn something new every day. Cool Flat tow a 2500HD that would be interesting. Thanks for the info

Posted

I like my old fashion lever. No guessing.

And, well, I'm old.

Me too. I much preferred shift lever Tcases. There are some things that are better left alone.

  • Like 2
Posted

When I took delivery of my truck I asked the sales guy how to put transfer case into Neutral (didn't notice the "N" on the knob). He said you couldn't. Then I read the Owners Manual.

Lol...got to love car sales people...

 

Sent from my STH100-1 using Tapatalk

Posted

The kicker is when I walked into the dealership I specifically asked for their HD Truck specialist. I'd been in Dodge/Ram trucks for 15 years prior so I was not as familiar with GM.

Posted

Me too. I much preferred shift lever Tcases. There are some things that are better left alone.

I was i that camp to, til I figured out that the same front axle engage system came with either version of the transfer case. BIL found out that if the front axle actuators don't do their thing, it doesn't matter where the floor lever is.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I know when I was looking around last year to see if someone handled Amsoil gear oil to buy at the retail level which of course means full price. I found an independent shop that works a lot on GM/Duramax pickups and they did not bring in the 75W-85 as they just stuck to the 75W-90 for the front and rear as a standard practice for the HD trucks which makes sense anyway for the higher hp/torque diesel and pulling heavy loads in four wheel drive. I haven't changed my diff oils yet but still plan on using the 75W-85 for the front diff as I highly doubt I will be beating on the truck and figured for my use type the bit thinner oil would be to my benefit for the winter for that slightly less drag. Very different weather here all winter vs northern Washington near the coast, that's for sure. 
    • Ok that confirms the extra quart theme they are still going with which must mean they have noted some initial use more so then some engines and probably the bigger factor in all of this probably isn't the engine so much as its the insane distance or OLM that lulls a lot of the driving public into driving their new vehicle off the lot and not even doing one short interval oil change because the manufacturer doesn't say different and if the dealer follows that logic as well. Selling the rarely needing to be serviced concept seems to go over well with the public that wants to get away with as little as possible for dollars spent on the vehicles maintenance and I bet there are 3.0 engines just like other vehicles out there that never have their oil checked by the owner which goes back to why they probably felt the need to add that extra quart to avoid a costly theme.    Speaking of cutting filters open, it was probably over two years ago now that a youtuber who buys vehicles to do longer term reviews and pulls a fifth wheel through the mountains of Colorado on summer trips and that becomes part of the testing. Anyway he had a GM HD with the 6.6 gas and a Ford 250 with the 7.3 gas at the same time and of no surprise the Ford had more power etc but somewhere along the way in the few thousand miles he put on the truck, he changed the oil and was seeing glitter and cut open the filter and yeah, things were not looking spectacular. The truck about that time or soon after seemed down on power compared to what it had been and then threw some engine code, I expect the cam/lifters were failing and so he brought the truck back to the dealer and made some deal to get out of it as he knew it would sit for months waiting on a new engine as they were so backlogged at the time. He kept the GM for some time after that using it exclusively until he sold it after buying his next vehicle to do a review on. Definitely the filter can tell a story when things are starting to go sideways, but it would be a sickening feeling to cut it open and be faced with an ugly mess like that and be running a magnet through the pleats and the oil on the dirty side of the filter and see all the fines sticking to the magnet.    The dealer may have some ideas based on experience as to where that coolant smell is coming from, I would imagine if they can't find it but its smelling they would put dye in it to they could give it a run cycle and use the black light to see where it pops up, if its a hose connection, water pump, rad or even a head gasket etc. 
    • Good looking truck, suspensionmaxx looks like a solid option
    • Thanks for the info, im considering a leveling kit or 4" lift kit.
    • charm.li (website) has the vehicle-specific diagnostic procedure for that code, you can use to find what the cause of it is.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...