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Coolant flush drain


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There was a drain on my 2014 6.2 when I replaced the radiator. Only I didn't know that when I removed the old one! I think it's on the passenger side if I remember correctly. I wanna say it took 2.5 + or - gallons. Maybe someone else can chime in to confirm the capacity. I bought 2 gallons of the non diluted and had extra.

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This is how I change the coolant on my truck. It's not a complete flush but I feel at least the coolant stays fairly fresh and clean. Since coolant is constantly circulated through the coolant tank, I simply syphon the contents out and refill with about 3/4 gallon of 50/50 Dexcool. Quick, easy and no mess. I do this annually.

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Ok so i pulled the upper driver side hose (lower clamp was facing up no way to get a vice grip on it) it is all connected by a Tee any way. I pushed the hose down lower then the radiator and ensured no kinks. Was able to get 1.5 gallons out that way.

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Ok so i pulled the upper driver side hose (lower clamp was facing up no way to get a vice grip on it) it is all connected by a Tee any way. I pushed the hose down lower then the radiator and ensured no kinks. Was able to get 1.5 gallons out that way.

So is there no drain plug on the bottom of the radiator then? I haven't looked yet.

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Changing the engine coolant is something the majority of owners don't experience so the need for a drain is not necessary. Unless you have had a leak or work done which requires coolant change, the owners manual has this as a 150k (miles) or 5yr. service. I appreciate that there may be other reasons to change the coolant more often and would be interested in hearing them. This is one of those maintenance tasks that I would be glad to do myself if I knew it helped!

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10 X, on 29 May 2017 - 9:54 PM, said:

My 2014 has a drain on the lower right side ( passenger side) of the radiator. You can't see it from the top. Its difficult to see but its there. Drain and refill was 1 gallon.

 

Good info, thanks.

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For those to short to look over the top of your  radiator down to the bottom with a flashlight don’t dispair. Those who are to fat to slide under the front grille and lower valance don’t despair. For those who don’t know what a small plastic wing  thumb screw feels like Or a petcock your In trouble!!!! Seriously every GM truck I’ve owned (every 4-5 years gone) has had a drain which is always only thumb tight. Perhaps it’s because I order trailer package with HD radiator I’m not sure the reason but if you slide your LEFT hand up your babies skirt from the passenger side while on your back locate the radiator corner and hose by feel you can’t really see them unless you bend your babies underbelly skirt hard which might break it. It opens with a little force not much and no need to remove it all the way itll drain fine. While this probably won’t remove all radiator fluid it removes a lot now close the valve This is the point u open your cap if lucky you had enough vacuum to empty your overflow reservoir add 1 gallon 50/50 mix close cap  run till warm and cycle or run heater on high to get the old stuff out of heater core and shut motor off (only run it until the thermostat opens under 200’ always watch temperature while doing this never let your engine over heat this step usually only takes 4-7 minutes tops. While you let it cool it should draw all fluid out of reservoir since you replaced the cap before starting engine. You can also manually drain the reservoir but I prefer siphon or pump method if it didn’t draw back in by vacuum as plastic breaks at the worst time always. AFTER engine cools Now remove the radiator cap yet again and add your new coolant 50/50 is fine I prefer 65% coolant and 35% distilled water. That’s me from my Dad he said probably doesn’t make a difference but if NASA uses it I’m using it. When full replace the cap and add fluid to reservoir and then drive for 15-20 minutes to cycle and burp the system then add if necessary but I would check it at least to more times just Incase you had air pockets or whatever.  In closing always watch your gauges now your normals so when something happens you’ll know what your normals are. I taught this to my children and they are now guage watchers. I like GM as most of their gauges on trucks are clocked to straight up is in normal state anything other than up is something to look at even gas if it left of up stop and fill.

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This is off the AMSOIL vehicle look-up page.

 

CAPACITIES:
Engine, with filter..........8 quarts [1]
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........16.6 quarts
Passenger Car & Light Truck Antifreeze & Coolant
AMSOIL Antifreeze and Engine Coolant
Automatic Transmission, 6L80 Initial Fill..........6 quarts
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
   6 speed LD 6L80..........12.2 quarts
   6 speed W/ HD Cool 6L80..........12.4 quarts
Differential, 8.25 RingGear Front..........3 pints
Differential, 8.6 RingGear Rear..........4.2 pints
Differential, 9.5 RingGear Rear..........5.5 pints
Transfer Case, MP 3023/3024..........3.2 pints
Transfer Case, MP 1222, 25,26..........3.2 pints
[1] After refill check oil level.
minus.jpg TORQUES:
   Oil Drain Plug.....18 ft/lbs
   Transfer Case
     Fill Plug 13 ft/lbs
     Drain Plug 13 ft/lbs
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On ‎5‎/‎24‎/‎2017 at 8:41 PM, beetle said:

This is how I change the coolant on my truck. It's not a complete flush but I feel at least the coolant stays fairly fresh and clean. Since coolant is constantly circulated through the coolant tank, I simply syphon the contents out and refill with about 3/4 gallon of 50/50 Dexcool. Quick, easy and no mess. I do this annually.

Works for me.  I also check the strength. Not all 50/50 is actually 50/50 it seems. 

 

On ‎5‎/‎29‎/‎2017 at 8:42 AM, Donstar said:

Changing the engine coolant is something the majority of owners don't experience so the need for a drain is not necessary. Unless you have had a leak or work done which requires coolant change, the owners manual has this as a 150k (miles) or 5yr. service. I appreciate that there may be other reasons to change the coolant more often and would be interested in hearing them. This is one of those maintenance tasks that I would be glad to do myself if I knew it helped!

Shelf life is based on the additive package...maybe :lol: Briggs & Stratton is on a kick now recommending that you never need to change your small engine oil. :loser: 

 

I haven't done the math on the above but it seems enough to keep the additives in check. There are test kits for that if you like. Or use to be anyway. :rolleyes:

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