Jump to content

Adding a Dual Battery

bsprtsgrp
 Share

Recommended Posts

bsprtsgrp Enthusiast

bsprtsgrp

Posted
Posted

I started to add a second battery today when i noticed that the additional battery tray that came with the vehicle did not have a place for the retainer & bolt attach to or the other side of the battery (a Series 48) to hold on to.

 

When we drilled down into the BOM for adding a secondary battery we noticed that there is another battery tray listed #22989633. Has anyone else had to swap-out the tray that came with the truck in order to add the secondary battery so it could be secured?

 

This how it looks now...

post-156492-0-62513800-1498514204_thumb.jpg

post-156492-0-62513800-1498514204_thumb.jpg

post-156492-0-62513800-1498514204_thumb.jpg

post-156492-0-62513800-1498514204_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 127
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

tenscourts
tenscourts

I've gone through this entire process. See my build thread and pm me if you need additional info. BTW the OE battery size will not fit the second tray. Again, read my thread. I have part #s, pictures,

Vuk
Vuk

This is the battery tray, secondary auxiliary relay, and the optional 3 fuse box and cover for older model years if you want to replace the single fuse box on the aux battery harness:

Vuk
Vuk

My setup is complete now with nice factory-looking points to hook up an inverter. Should I ever need to jump start the primary battery, I can always run jump cables from aux battery to the primary.

Posted Images

bsprtsgrp Enthusiast

bsprtsgrp

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

This is the GMC Part listing the additional tray....see how there is a lip on one side near 10,11,12 o'clock in the photo to retain the battery

post-156492-0-48212000-1498514357.png

post-156492-0-48212000-1498514357.png

post-156492-0-48212000-1498514357.png

post-156492-0-48212000-1498514357.png

Edited by bsprtsgrp
bsprtsgrp Enthusiast

bsprtsgrp

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Tray would look like this one...see the lip behind the washer fill cap

 

 

 

post-156492-0-69307700-1498567874_thumb.jpg

post-156492-0-69307700-1498567874_thumb.jpg

post-156492-0-69307700-1498567874_thumb.jpg

post-156492-0-69307700-1498567874_thumb.jpg

tenscourts Enthusiast

tenscourts

Posted
Posted

I've gone through this entire process. See my build thread and pm me if you need additional info. BTW the OE battery size will not fit the second tray. Again, read my thread. I have part #s, pictures, and videos.e77c7fa7bb1f873eba102ccba5b7c528.jpg

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk. My build thread: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?/topic/192614-Tenscourts'-2016-LTZ/Z71-CCSB-4WD-Silverado

  • Like 4
  • Thanks 1
Jeremy01 Enthusiast

Jeremy01

Posted
Posted

Thank you for the information I was thinking about putting in a second battery a long time now but how to do it without overpowering the alternator was my question and everybody wanted to charge me an arm and a leg to do it

 

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk

tenscourts Enthusiast

tenscourts

Posted
Posted

Thank you for the information I was thinking about putting in a second battery a long time now but how to do it without overpowering the alternator was my question and everybody wanted to charge me an arm and a leg to do it

 

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk

I'd say it will run you $800 for a basic setup. I probably spent $1200 due to trial and error. Your biggest expenses will be the battery, isolator, and cables. You can get a tray off a 2014 that isn't using it then buy the bolt and rubber wedge. I spent about $50 buying the tray new.

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk. My build thread: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?/topic/192614-Tenscourts'-2016-LTZ/Z71-CCSB-4WD-Silverado

  • Like 1
Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted

I spent about $500 on parts, installing a second battery in my 2008 truck. The cost is dependent on whether you go with automatic charging management, manual charging management, quality of the components, method of battery isolation/connecting.

  • Like 1
bsprtsgrp Enthusiast

bsprtsgrp

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I've gone through this entire process. See my build thread and pm me if you need additional info. BTW the OE battery size will not fit the second tray. Again, read my thread. I have part #s, pictures, and videos.e77c7fa7bb1f873eba102ccba5b7c528.jpg

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk. My build thread: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?/topic/192614-Tenscourts'-2016-LTZ/Z71-CCSB-4WD-Silverado

 

Appreciate the insight. What we found out after calling GMC PartsTech hotline is that the 1500' are built with a tray included solely because the engine compartment is relativity the same BOM as a 2500,which allows the option to add a second battery, hence the tray being there.

 

Secondly, the tray that was installed in my engine compartment did not have the proper hold-down lip or the adhered nut on the bottom to hold the retainer & bolt. This is the strange part as others here with 1500's have the tray that does have the ability to secure a battery. We brought in tray #22989633 and that also did not have the lip to hold the battery. My parts guy ordered tray#25826079 which is tray in the 2500 and that tray has the lip and the nut on the bottom which holds down the battery. The only difference is the slight jog for the washer bottle neck, however the tray will fit.

 

Lastly, the tray size requires an AC Delco battery Series 48PG (or similar battery) not a Series 94 which is included with the 1500' truck and 3 inches wider. When you order a 2500 with dual batteries, you receive 2-48 series batteries which includes an isolator.

 

I ordered the GM factory cables for a dual battery install and will have my installation shop add the appropriate isolator and fuses.

Edited by bsprtsgrp
tenscourts Enthusiast

tenscourts

Posted
Posted

 

Appreciate the insight. What we found out after calling GMC PartsTech hotline is that the 1500' are built with a tray included solely because the engine compartment is relativity the same BOM as a 2500,which allows the option to add a second battery, hence the tray being there.

 

Secondly, the tray that was installed in my engine compartment did not have the proper hold-down lip or the adhered nut on the bottom to hold the retainer & bolt. This is the strange part as others here with 1500's have the tray that does have the ability to secure a battery. We brought in tray #22989633 and that also did not have the lip to hold the battery. My parts guy ordered tray#25826079 which is tray in the 2500 and that tray has the lip and the nut on the bottom which holds down the battery. The only difference is the slight jog for the washer bottle neck, however the tray will fit.

 

Lastly, the tray size requires an AC Delco battery Series 48PG (or similar battery) not a Series 94 which is included with the 1500' truck and 3 inches wider. When you order a 2500 with dual batteries, you receive 2-48 series batteries which includes an isolator.

 

I ordered the GM factory cables for a dual battery install and will have my installation shop add the appropriate isolator and fuses.

FYI the 2014's and maybe 2015's have the tray with the lip. In the 2016's they got cheap. My dealer looked up a replacement tray and it came with the lip. Took me 3 batteries to figure out the right size. 2014 or 2015 models offered dual batteries in a 1500. When I looked them up I finally figured out the right size. 48 as you said. I got custom cables because of the placement of my isolator. Glad you got it worked out.

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk. My build thread: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?/topic/192614-Tenscourts'-2016-LTZ/Z71-CCSB-4WD-Silverado

bsprtsgrp Enthusiast

bsprtsgrp

Posted
  • Author
Posted

FYI the 2014's and maybe 2015's have the tray with the lip. In the 2016's they got cheap. My dealer looked up a replacement tray and it came with the lip. Took me 3 batteries to figure out the right size. 2014 or 2015 models offered dual batteries in a 1500. When I looked them up I finally figured out the right size. 48 as you said. I got custom cables because of the placement of my isolator. Glad you got it worked out.

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk. My build thread: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?/topic/192614-Tenscourts'-2016-LTZ/Z71-CCSB-4WD-Silverado

 

Mine is a 2105 A/T SLT and my "tray" would not work.

 

Like the hood LEDS BTW, nice touch

tenscourts Enthusiast

tenscourts

Posted
Posted

 

Mine is a 2105 A/T SLT and my "tray" would not work.

 

Like the hood LEDS BTW, nice touch

Thanks. My friend has a 2014 and his has the correct tray. Couldn't remember what year they got cheap.

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk. My build thread: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?/topic/192614-Tenscourts'-2016-LTZ/Z71-CCSB-4WD-Silverado

  • 1 year later...
Sloverado Enthusiast

Sloverado

Posted
Posted

Bringing up old thread. I am looking to do this upgrade and I’m also have another question maybe someone can answer. I have a 170 amp alt and was wondering if the 84143539 220 amp would be a replacement for it? I have a 17 with the 6.2. My dealer ship wasn’t much help when asking

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...