Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Trying to swap out the black hooks to chrome on my 2017 silverado 1500. Passenger side easy but the front bolt on the drivers side hits a bumper bracket. If it had been installed the other direction it would be no problem. Do you have to cut it out or is there another trick? Have seen the videos for 2014 and 15 models but 2017 is different.

Don't cut the bolt, no need. I removed mine by loosening the bracket it hits.. you have to remove 3 bolts, pry the bracket apart with flat head. wiggle it out it took about 5 minutes.

 

just re install the bolt from the other side, pretty easy.

I don't know Why GM did this but i am sure they bolt the tow hooks before installing that bracket.

Edited by javierh41
  • Like 1
Posted

I wonder why recovery hooks come standard on 4WD and not on 2WD, which needs them more than the 4WD's?

 

I wish I had them on my 2WD. Maybe I'll buy a pair and install them. Never know when I may need them.

Posted (edited)

Used mine a couple of times is all on the 2007 - you had to trim the plastic facia to even get a good size strap thru them. Yarded an old Ford truck out side ways once that had sat for years and broke the brakes free. Another time to brake a truck as it rolled off a trailer with the wife steering - it no working brakes of it's own.......

Edited by Krusty
  • 2 months later...
Posted

Guys, could use some help.....Is there a trick to installing the hooks after you remove?  Took out passenger side, and tried putting in new chrome ones.  Could not get it to go in...Still have the plastic piece between frame end and bumper there.   Shoud it just slide in or is it a super tight fit?

 

Thanks

 

Posted

My chrome hooks slid right in. The only bitch about the entire install was the drivers side long bolt that needed to be cut to remove.

Posted

Plan on removing driver side tomorrow....did they slide straight in or angle or something?  I can start the long side, but short side stops for some reason....

Posted

They went in straight. I would measure the new hook versus the old hook, just to make sure that the new one isn't oversized.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

We have receivers and the new big D tow hook for the 2005 to 2017 4x4 trucks, they will also fit the 2 wheel drive with a cut out. We are becoming a vendor on this site if we ever hear back from them. They come with the receiver you swap out with the existing d ring.  tow hooks can be unscrewed from receiver if needed.   www.zl1addons.com

JDJ_3459.JPG

JDJ_3468.JPG

Edited by Skylane765
Posted
17 hours ago, Skylane765 said:

We have receivers and the new big D tow hook for the 2005 to 2017 4x4 trucks, they will also fit the 2 wheel drive with a cut out. We are becoming a vendor on this site if we ever hear back from them. They come with the receiver you swap out with the existing d ring.  tow hooks can be unscrewed from receiver if needed.   www.zl1addons.com

JDJ_3459.JPG

JDJ_3468.JPG

$500 for two of these????

 

I'll buy a $50 black set and pass on some fancy tow hooks.

  • Haha 1
Posted
On 10/27/2017 at 5:30 PM, mike67naz said:

Guys, could use some help.....Is there a trick to installing the hooks after you remove?  Took out passenger side, and tried putting in new chrome ones.  Could not get it to go in...Still have the plastic piece between frame end and bumper there.   Shoud it just slide in or is it a super tight fit?

 

Thanks

 

 

Anyway you can tell me the stats on the bolt head to install the hooks?  I'd like to pick up two from HD (my truck is a 2WD) since I'm buying my recovery hooks on CL.

Posted
I just installed red tow hooks on my 2017 z71 silverado. I used a sawzall to cut the head off the head of the bolt off on the driver side. Slide the bolt out until it touched the bracket and held the head with a pair of vise grips and cut the bolt. Was a piece of cake.


How did you reinstall the new hooks without removing the bumper?

I cut my bolts for a bull bar and want to reinstall my tow hooks but see no other way other than removing the bumper.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Bumper removal is pretty easy. At least on the silverado. Pull the bolts for the rear support bars on each side. Two 15mm bolts accessible on each side from the center with the grille off. Bumper will just be picked up. It weighs like 100 lbs ish.

Posted (edited)

Very easy to install, just remove the OEM stock hook and ours bolt right in its place, for the non 4x4 they will fit also just drill a 1 inch hole though the plastic cover and NO NEED TO MODIFY OR REMOVE BUMPER. All the frames of the trucks have existing holes for the tow hook receivers. if you look under the bumper you will see you can get to the frame to install them.

Edited by Skylane765
Posted

I'm sorry, but at 500 bucks for a set of tow hooks, that is insane. You can get the red ones from GM for 100 bucks or the black for 50. That price is way too rich for my blood.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Glad it worked for you. I tried that 1st, about 2 years ago. Didn't help. I also tried doing a hard reset (disconnecting battery for minimum of 30 minutes). Worked a couple times, but after one summer of doing it over and over, that no longer worked.  I was fairly confident it was either the compressor or a failed actuator, but I just couldn't identify which one. Had to research which actuators do what and which last numbers are associated with each.
    • Took me FIFTEEN MINUTES to find this. Isn't that a problem? On the mainstream media I can INSTANTLY find 100 articles bashing President Trump ... but when it comes to TRUTH in American corporate news & search engines, it's carefully filtered to support ONE SIDE. A Republic cannot survive like this! Incredible! Even all the AI searchers out there failed as well! ChatGPT said it needed more details on the video that I provided a DIRECT LINK to! I thought AI was the be-all, end-all?? I had to dig it up myself. This should be FRONT PAGE NEWS!!! 🤬   Here's the statement directly from our President:     Glenn Beck's reporting on the operation:   https://glennbeck.com/watch/videos/trump-just-revealed-a-massive-military-secret-that-lowered-gas-prices   In case that link doesn't work, here's the YouTube link:     And another 15 minutes to find this clip out of Glenn Beck's video - the first few seconds is all the corporate media will allow the public to see, since the low IQ people will think Trump said " I love inflation ", and that was the end of it. Taken WAY out of context! Here's that part, plus the 2nd part about the oil smuggling operation:  
    • More is cylinder deactivation. Kia-Hyundai Ive had 4. The warranty is the same 10 years 100K miles. My grandson drives the first one 05 Elantra GT. My wife drives the second one 2011 Genesis. The Genesis still performs as new and looks great. The Elantra looks rough. He’s not kind to it. The third was a Genesis coup. The fourth was a Santa Fe. Those were my daily drivers. I don’t keep them long. Kia is the same as Hyundai with the same warranty. I looked at the K-4 today. Too small, otherwise pretty good buy. Most of Hyundai and Kia’s have a performance upgrade. 
    • Thanks for the point of reference 
    • Great question. Answer....depends. One the volume of the crankcase, the driver that will actually be using the vehicle and the amount it uses plus the distance expected for that next trip. Couple of for instances:   Wife is going to drive Dizzy to Moline and back plus a bit around town so say 500 miles on the day. I know from years with that SUV that around town and local rural it uses about a quart in 1250 miles. But on the Interstate and her at the wheel without her anchor nagging her she'll push it and it will drop a quart in about 800 miles. Hence, around town I wait to somewhere between a quarter down to a quart down. On her trip I'd top it if it was down a few ounces and hope for the best.    Have I overfilled one? You mean by adding before it needs a full quart I assume. No, not once after finding the true fill mark.  I know the dipsticks of everything I drive and add what it needs. I learn this by doing the first oil change a quart low. Run the motor for a few minutes. Let it sit over night. Check and mark. Then add half a cup at a time making note of the place on the stick. I add through the dipstick tube with a barbeque basting bottle. Give it a few minutes to drain down and check again.    A vehicle like Dizzy that uses this much oil will take a few quarts between 3K changes. I keep one in the vehicle with the bottle and a bag. (Mindful of it's fullness) Not a big deal and never makes a mess of it. There is no such thing as "multiple quarts' in my shop for any specific oil. There will be a maximum however of the number of different oils used over the fleet.     Dizzy holds a nominal 5 quarts. So the first fill was indeed over as it actually took 4.75. My vehicles are fit with Valvomax valves so I can meter an ounce on the drain if need be. Found her mark first crack at it. Never to be repeated.    Pepper uses none between changes so I don't keep a quart in that one. Straight up 6 quarts put her dead on the full line. Check it ever fuel stop. They will surprise you when they start using.    Raven holds 3 liters or 5.44 ounces over three quarts. I add 3 quarts and 6 ounces. That gives me 5 oil changes on my orphan quart.    Lawnmower holds about 3/5 of a quart. I don't over fill it to prevent an orphan. So yea, depends. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...