Jump to content

12 volt power sources needed

Sour_Squirrel

By Sour_Squirrel
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Sour_Squirrel Enthusiast

Sour_Squirrel

Posted
Posted

I want to hard wire my dash cam but I'm having trouble finding a 12 volt accessory source at the fuse panel.

That is, a 12 volt fuse that's on in the accessory or on position and 0 volts when the key is in the off position. It doesn't matter which side fuse panel it's on. Please help...

 

Maybe someone that already has their dash cam or even a radar detector hard wired in their truck.

  • Like 1
SSam Enthusiast

SSam

Posted
Posted

I used a Micro 2, "SEO" fuse that had RAP power for my radar detector. It was on the drivers side fuse panel.


Think it is the Special Equipment fuse.


Should work great.



-S


pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

I want to hard wire my dash cam but I'm having trouble finding a 12 volt accessory source at the fuse panel.

That is, a 12 volt fuse that's on in the accessory or on position and 0 volts when the key is in the off position. It doesn't matter which side fuse panel it's on. Please help...

 

Maybe someone that already has their dash cam or even a radar detector hard wired in their truck.

Funny you mention this. I just received my SG9665 dashcam today and will be installing it tomorrow. Should have a How-To for it. I won't be installing an Add-A-Fuse but rather removing an existing RAP Circuit (Same as the center console 12V) and recrimping the terminal with an extra wire to it. I am looking at the passenger side X51R Fuse Panel but recall seeing one in the driver side too.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sour_Squirrel Enthusiast

Sour_Squirrel

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I was planning on making the installation as simple as possible by using a fuse tap to and existing fuse circuit.

I think I did notice a couple of RAP breakers on the passenger side but I can't use the fuse taps I have on those circuits.

I have a couple of mini ATC fuse taps I wanted to use to hard wire my dash cam. Those two RAP breakers don't look like a traditional fuse (ATC, mini ATC).

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

Owners manual shows several 'upfitter' locations and a couple SEO locations.

 

 

Don't forget there are fuse blocks in both ends of the instrument panel.

Crazyjoker77 Enthusiast

Crazyjoker77

Posted
Posted (edited)

I just hardwired my dash cam last week. In my truck there was no switched power in the passenger side only constant 12V. Drivers side has a dedicated stake for switched power (or RPO as chevy calls it) Just use a inline fuse with a standard female spade connector.

 

You will also find that mini add a fuse is useless as these trucks use a new standard in fuses called Micro2 (different from micro). I was unable to find a micro 2 add-a-circuit in any of the stores locally.

 

heres a picture showing the dedicated RPO power in the drivers side interior fuse box.(where the blue stak-on is) Alternatevly if you have to use a add-a-circuit that brown 7.5A fuse is also a switched source and is for the heated steering wheel that most trucks don't have but the fuse is always there.

 

f42962f6ad1cef377e854a9f6122ed8e.jpg

Edited by Crazyjoker77
parthery Enthusiast

parthery

Posted
Posted

I used the same terminal that Crazyjoker references when I hardwired my V1. Works perfectly. No issue finding a ground either as there is a bolt right next to the drivers side fuse panel.

ChevyRoofer Senior Enthusiast

ChevyRoofer

Posted
Posted

I used the same terminal that Crazyjoker references when I hardwired my V1. Works perfectly. No issue finding a ground either as there is a bolt right next to the drivers side fuse panel.

X3 - did the same thing to wire my V1 as well. $10 for direct power. 2-3 minute install.

 

Next up will be a dash cam.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

aaronarf Enthusiast

aaronarf

Posted
Posted

Do you add a relay to take the load off that circuit?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Not necessary by any means.

sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted

Not necessary by any means.

How much load is that circuit capable of providing? I'm thinking of multiple widgets being placed on that circuit might create a problem...

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
aaronarf Enthusiast

aaronarf

Posted
Posted (edited)

How much load is that circuit capable of providing? I'm thinking of multiple widgets being placed on that circuit might create a problem...

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

The dash cam referenced in this thread operates at ~5volts and requires a step-down, so very minimal power draw even if combined with a radar detector. If you are using an Add-a-fuse you can draw whatever the stock wiring can handle and fuse it properly (18-20AWG?)

Edited by AaronArf
Csjumper2003 Enthusiast

Csjumper2003

Posted
Posted

I installed my radar detector using a 12v switched. If you search for radar detector install you will see there is a 12v switched in the top console. Easy to take down and tap into.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Crazyjoker77 Enthusiast

Crazyjoker77

Posted
Posted

How much load is that circuit capable of providing? I'm thinking of multiple widgets being placed on that circuit might create a problem...

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

50A! Guess I should clarify my first post its not really a dedicated stake for switched power just happens to be super convenient for it. What it actually is a way to switch your front 12v outlets from always on to RPO by just moving that 50A fuse over.(and now your left with a dedicated constant 12v stake).

 

Heres a picture showing it with the fuse moved over making the 12v receptacles in the dash now switched power.

post-155272-146652685792.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 8 months later...
Raxnar Enthusiast

Raxnar

Posted
Posted
On 9/18/2017 at 5:09 PM, Crazyjoker77 said:

50A! Guess I should clarify my first post its not really a dedicated stake for switched power just happens to be super convenient for it. What it actually is a way to switch your front 12v outlets from always on to RPO by just moving that 50A fuse over.(and now your left with a dedicated constant 12v stake).

 

Heres a picture showing it with the fuse moved over making the 12v receptacles in the dash now switched power.

post-155272-146652685792.jpg

Glad I found this thread! I just picked up my new Thinkware F800 Pro and a Cellink Neo battery for the Camera.

 

I'm not great at electrical wiring but can fumble my way though installs like this.

 

My truck is the 2018 1500 Crew Cab Redline edition, picked it up in April.

 

The instructions for the Hardwiring are in the attached picture, sorry about the chinese characters :)

image.png.a7eaae9364f7ce8c39ddfd6990480f88.png

 

They are saying it needs a fuse greater than 20A, obviously this one you found for easy connecting is 50A.  Do you think this will still work for the Cellink Neo Battery?

 

I know, you probably aren't familiar with the battery product but you seem to know a bit more about electrical than I do.

 

Should I maybe put a 20A fuse between the spade connector and the battery?

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...