Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I got an email from OnStar about a possible problem with my starter motor or it's connection, for my 2017 5.3L Silverado.

 

Just curious if anyone has had this alert before, and if you took it to the dealer what was the cause and fix for this.

 

Thanks.

 

8da0e4ebcae94f30afe89136d45a144f.jpg

 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

 

Posted

Those OnStar alerts are such crap. I’ve seen customers come in with the most off the wall statements from OnStar and nothing was wrong.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)
Quote

 

Proactive Alert Starting & Charging Service Message Identifier SAC004

Notice: The Service Technician MUST complete every Step of this diagnostic.

 

Notice: For Corvette testing, Go to Step 4.

  1. Verify the battery cable connections are clean and tight. Refer to Battery Inspection/Test in SI.
  2. Turn OFF the ignition. Measure the battery voltage at the battery terminals. The voltage should be between 12.0–15.0 V
    • If not within the specified range, refer to Battery Charging in SI.
    • If within the specified range, Go to Step 3, for Corvette Go to Step 4.
  3. Test for less than the specified value between the positive battery cable at the battery and the positive battery cable at the M64 starter motor as the ignition is placed in the CRANK/START position. Refer to Measuring Voltage Drop in SI.
    • If greater than the specified value, replace the positive battery cable. Refer to Battery Positive Cable Replacement in SI.
    • If less than the specified value, Go to Step 6.
  4. Test for less than 0.5 V between terminal A X6 at the X50D Fuse Block – Battery and terminal A X6 at the X50A Fuse Block – Underhood as the ignition is placed in the CRANK/START position.
    • If greater than the specified value, replace the positive battery cable. Refer to Battery Positive Cable Replacement in SI.
    • If less than the specified value, Go to Step 5.
  5. Test for less than 0.5 V between terminal A X6 at the X50A Fuse Block – Underhood and terminal A X2 at the M64 Starter Motor as the ignition is placed in the CRANK/START position.
    • If greater than the specified value, replace the starter solenoid cable. Refer to Starter Solenoid Cable Replacement in SI.
    • If less than the specified value, Go to Step 6.
  6. Test for less than 0.5 V between the negative battery cable and the M64 starter motor case as the ignition switch is placed to the CRANK/START position. Refer to Measuring Voltage Drop in SI.
    • If greater than the specified value, replace the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Replacement in SI.
    • If less than specified value replace the Starter. Refer to Starter Replacement in SI.
  7. No other action is required as the Service Message will automatically clear once the starting system is serviced properly and the vehicle is operated over a number of ignition cycles. Other on board DTCs may have set if the vehicle experienced a low voltage condition.

    Use the scan tool to clear ALL DTCs prior to releasing the vehicle to the Customer.

  8. Submit the correct Bulletin Only Labor Operation for this repair: 4080598*.

 

 

Edited by newdude
Posted

I've got 2 of these emails now.

From that diagnostic above it looks like they would only replace a battery cable at most.

Do you guys think if I just disconnect the battery for an hour or so that might help reset things, and maybe then the OnStar emails might stop?

Posted

a 2015... aren't you still under warranty? If so, its up to your dealer to diagnose and fix. Unless its more inconvenient for you to drive to a dealer than work on it yourself, I'd make them figure it out. At least then if it fails later, you have a service record for it. If you temporarily fix it yourself and then the starter goes out next year, then what?

Posted
54 minutes ago, aseibel said:

a 2015... aren't you still under warranty? If so, its up to your dealer to diagnose and fix. Unless its more inconvenient for you to drive to a dealer than work on it yourself, I'd make them figure it out. At least then if it fails later, you have a service record for it. If you temporarily fix it yourself and then the starter goes out next year, then what?

 

OP has a 2017. 

1 hour ago, 15_silverado said:

I got an email from OnStar about a possible problem with my starter motor or it's connection, for my 2017 5.3L Silverado.

 

Posted

my bad. Definitely under warranty = dealer's problem to fix.

Posted

Yea it's a 2017, it has plenty of time on warranty. I'm not to worried about it, just was curious if anyone else has already been through this and knew what would be the cause and fix.

Posted (edited)

I think the 20+ computers on these rigs just have a brain fart at times.  Just like your home PC needs a reboot on occasion.  My 2017 has had a few quirks - chime going of every 30 seconds for no reason.  Pulled over, turned it off and restarted.  Never repeated since.  Turn signal blinking but no noise.  Same fix - pulled over - rebooted - never repeated since.  On a 1,200 mile trip a couple weeks ago the temperature display stuck at 32 degrees thru multiple starts over a couple days while daytime temp was aver 60 degrees - finally reset....

 

 

:sigh:

Edited by Krusty
Posted

I saw on youtube how to disconnect Onstar for Silverado and Sierra, anyone know how or a link for the 2015-2018 Yukon??? I do not want big brother monitoring my truck.

Posted (edited)
20 hours ago, Krusty said:

I think the 20+ computers on these rigs just have a brain fart at times.  Just like your home PC needs a reboot on occasion.  My 2017 has had a few quirks - chime going of every 30 seconds for no reason.  Pulled over, turned it off and restarted.  Never repeated since.  Turn signal blinking but no noise.  Same fix - pulled over - rebooted - never repeated since.  On a 1,200 mile trip a couple weeks ago the temperature display stuck at 32 degrees thru multiple starts over a couple days while daytime temp was aver 60 degrees - finally reset....

 

 

:sigh:

The outside temperature display sticking is a common problem thru 3 generations of GM trucks now.  It is programmed to always instantly show a lower temp but not to show a raised temp unless a number of parameters are met, as the engineers don't want the display to show a raised temp just because of underhood engine heat. 

 

Press the recirc and A/C buttons at the same time, and the temp display will instantly update, and as a result, your auto HVAC system will work much better. 

Edited by MaverickZ71
  • 1 year later...
Posted

I received this , I changed battery and problem was solved. 

 

Your 2017 Chevrolet Suburban detects a battery, starter or connection issue. The battery is needed to start the vehicle. To avoid a situation where you can't start your vehicle, please schedule service with your preferred service provider as soon as possible, so they can determine if your Battery or Starter needs replacing. You can still drive your Chevrolet but it may become harder to start. And if the battery does fail, you will not be able to start the vehicle. Please disregard this message if your vehicle is already in for service (as this could be a false notification if the vehicle is in for service and the service being performed affects this component).

Service Code SAC005

If you would like additional information please contact Member Assistance at 1.866.237.3601.

 
  • 2 years later...
Posted (edited)

Old thread but figure worth a shot.  I have a 2018 Silverado and have gotten the e-mail for SAC004 twice.  Seems to start fine.  When it says check power at the starter terminal are they saying disconnect it and see what happens?

 

Edit:  oh yeah...  The one with the lug. Not trying that in crank while under the rruck... 

Edited by Brian Maxwell
Details
Posted

talking about starters, you guys with 8 speed transmissions have it tough, since the starter is built into the trans bellhousing,  GM wants you to pull the tranny to replace the starter. how F****ed up is that?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...