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3 hours ago, NDB said:

I just pulled a set of these Tri-mode steps off my ‘17 Sierra Denali (wanted more clearance for off-roaring).  I’m in Houston. Send me a PM if interested. 

54BD5749-0BBE-41BC-9C7F-A56AA7D0C4E3.jpeg

How much ???

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  • 2 months later...
On 2/15/2018 at 5:23 PM, Xenawise said:

Hopefully Tleesmith14 will report his success or failure with the switch he ordered. I know when I did mine, the wire was already there in the switch harness. I find it interesting that the Running Board Disable wire was already existing in the LT harness. It does seem this could be used for a couple of different options so as long as you are using only one option at a time maybe it will work just fine.

 

Perhaps the OP could also order the switch and see if it works for him as well. I know when I did my conversion, I was already working with a Denali, so if there is BCM programming needed, it already had it. I do get DIC messages when the boards are disabled or enabled, so I would be interested to see if this happens on the lower trim trucks as well.

 

Anyway, this is not an "easy" modification to do, but if you have the means, the case and know something about the wiring of these trucks, you can certainly do this. 

 

Props to the OP for all the raw terminal and connector part numbers! I was having a rough time finding these and by the time I purchased all of it along with the wire and my time to build the harnesses from scratch, I kind of cheated and just purchased a new truck harness (cheapest I could find with the BRS option) and stripped out the running board harness from the rest of the harness. That way I had all the proper connectors and everything was hooked up exactly as the factory would do it including the harness that runs over to the passenger running board and all the mounting hardware so you can just push the wire harness retainers into the existing holes in the chassis for the passenger side. Even with the factory harness, you do have de-pin the +12v battery voltage wire, the GMLAN wire and the disable wire from the new harness, but you don't have to crimp any new connectors and only have to take the fuse box apart and just slide in the connectors in the trucks existing harness. So much easier for someone who would be challenged making up their own harness (and crimping the connectors and getting the "right" crimper tool and de-pin tool(s) which are a bit costly for a one-time job). Just goes to show that there is always more than one way to skin a cat!

 

Also, excellent video describing this process! I only wish I could do such as good a job as you did. Major props!

 

Xenawise

 

Do you have the part number for the wiring harness you purchased?  Where did you purchase it from? 

 

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I just purchased the articulating steps for my 2017 Silverado 1500 4x4 LT.   I have my parts list below and have some questions...

 

pgomboa

Can you PM me your wiring details?  I have tried to screen shot the video but there are a lot of things I still can not make out. 

 

I also noticed you did not install the interior dash switch.  Is this not needed?  Why are some guys needing this for the steps to work? 

 

 

Parts List:

 

Wiring Harness - Part number  ?

 

OR (Building the wiring harness)

 

Wire Sizes:  22 AWG and 16 AWG

 

Fuse box terminals - MFG P/N 13849935-L   OR  Mouser P/N 829-1384995-L

X-500/x-600 Connector - MFG P/N 962943-2  OR  Mouser P/N 571-962943-2  ALT P/N 964263-2

Module Connectors:

      X1 - Nexus Electronics 7283-5926-10

      X1 Terminals - 7116-4150-02

      X2 - Running Board Connectors - Nexus Electronics 7282-5574-10

      X2 Terminals - 7114-4151-02

      X3? - MFG P/N 33472-1206  OR  Mouser P/N 538-33472-1206

      X3? Terminals - MFG P/N 33012-2003  OR Mouser P/N 538-33012-2003-LP

 

Terminal Tool - What is the best deal for something that will not be used much after this?

 

Nutsert (for mounting steps to the frame) - What size? 

 

Dash Switch (Do I need this???) - Part number?

 

I can't wait to get started on this!  Thanks for the help in advance.

 

Edited by SoonerTA
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The dash switch part  # I used was 23180146.

 

I don't know if you need this or not.  I couldn't get mine to work until I installed then they worked no problem.  The switch part number 23180146 however is a fully loaded switch.  It has traction control hill braking cargo/bed lights, pedal mover, parking sensors, and lane keep, and the  bars.  I don't know if there is an option with ones that only you maybe looking for with an LT vs LTZ which I have.

 

The nut/nutsert are available at autozone I believe 8mm but could be wrong.

 

On the harness I made my own following phils diagrams wasn't the easiest wiring job I have every done but it is doable.

 

 

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16 hours ago, Tleesmith14 said:

The dash switch part  # I used was 23180146.

 

I don't know if you need this or not.  I couldn't get mine to work until I installed then they worked no problem.  The switch part number 23180146 however is a fully loaded switch.  It has traction control hill braking cargo/bed lights, pedal mover, parking sensors, and lane keep, and the  bars.  I don't know if there is an option with ones that only you maybe looking for with an LT vs LTZ which I have.

 

The nut/nutsert are available at autozone I believe 8mm but could be wrong.

 

On the harness I made my own following phils diagrams wasn't the easiest wiring job I have every done but it is doable.

 

 

On the switch, it doesn't look like there is an option with out the lane keep or hill braking. I still should be able to use it with what I have and not be able to use the other switches, correct? 

 

Also, has anyone figured out why some people need to install the dash switch and some people do not?  That's very odd to me.

Edited by SoonerTA
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More info since SoonerTA has asked me:

 

The cheapest wiring harness with the BRS running board wiring harness inside that I could find is part number 84006174.

 

You also will need the interior switch bank with the seven switches so you can turn the running boards on or off and that part number is 23180146 (fully loaded 8 switch bank - others are available).

 

I purchased them through www.mygmwholesaleparts.com, best price and shipping rate I could find. Delivered in two days! Excellent service from these guys!

 

Xenawise 

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3 hours ago, Xenawise said:

More info since SoonerTA has asked me:

 

The cheapest wiring harness with the BRS running board wiring harness inside that I could find is part number 84006174.

 

You also will need the interior switch bank with the seven switches so you can turn the running boards on or off and that part number is 23180146 (fully loaded 8 switch bank - others are available).

 

I purchased them through www.mygmwholesaleparts.com, best price and shipping rate I could find. Delivered in two days! Excellent service from these guys!

 

Xenawise 

Thank you for all the information. 

 

Has anyone figured out why @pgomboa didn't have to use the dash switch and you had to, to get yours working? 

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Does anyone have a part number for the dash switches with just:  Traction Control, Cargo Lights, Pedal Mover, Parking Sensors and Running Boards?  Does that exist?  

 

I can order the fully loaded switch bank but will just not use the other switches I guess.  (Hill Braking and Lane Keep)

 

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I think you want part number: 23180142

SWITCH, VEHICLE STABILITY CONTROL SYSTEM(BLACK CARBON)(5 BUTTON BANK)
Fitting Vehicle Options  CK1(43)(BRS,JF4,UD7)(EXC JHD,UHX)

This has 5 buttons, BRS= Power Assist Steps, JF4= Power Adjust Pedals, UD5/UD7= Sensor Indicator - Parking Assist

I believe all the button banks have the Traction Control Switch and the Cargo Lamp Switch. 

 

Xenawise

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15 hours ago, Xenawise said:

I think you want part number: 23180142

SWITCH, VEHICLE STABILITY CONTROL SYSTEM(BLACK CARBON)(5 BUTTON BANK)
Fitting Vehicle Options  CK1(43)(BRS,JF4,UD7)(EXC JHD,UHX)

This has 5 buttons, BRS= Power Assist Steps, JF4= Power Adjust Pedals, UD5/UD7= Sensor Indicator - Parking Assist

I believe all the button banks have the Traction Control Switch and the Cargo Lamp Switch. 

 

Xenawise

Thank you Xenawise, I'll look into that switch. 

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Is there a way to manually retract the steps?  This project may take a couple days due to my schedule.  The steps I purchased are in the extended position.  If I install the steps and I need to drive the truck before I finish the project, how can I retract them? 

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  • 1 month later...

You should be able to extend or retract the motors on the individual running boards by applying +12V and Ground to the thick gauge wires going to the connector on the running board. Don't connect to the module connectors, connect to the running board connectors. You will only see two thick gauge wires, those are the motor wires. The rest of the wires are for the sensors and kick switch. These thick gauge wires go to the motor and depending on the polarity you hook up, the motor will extend or retract. Hook +12V to one wire, and ground the other. The motor should work and the board will extend or retract. If it extends, then just reverse the wires to the connector and the motor will retract. 

 

Xenawise

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