Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 11/13/2018 at 10:47 AM, diyer2 said:

Gee whiz, another problem GM motor, like the other brands don't  have problems also.

 

I feel for the owners of problem vehicles but the fact remains they all build a bad one now and then.

 

If there were posts from the owners of non problem vehicles this site would be many times it's size.

 

I also believe the way a vehicle is used and maintained is a huge factor that needs to be included in the equation but is hard to track.

 

I guess I'm luckier than the buyers of new vehicles because I've never had any major problems with my used vehicles all my life.

 

:)

 

 

 

Agreed 100%

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 9/15/2019 at 5:33 AM, Doublebase said:

"What i tend to see in these trucks is the following...

Leaking Condensers

Leaking radiators 

Actuator stuck in 4wd

Oil consumption

Starter motor failure"

For that Actuator, is it bad to leave the truck in auto 4x4 then?  Majority of the time I leave it in auto, but I really only need 2wd until winter comes.

Posted
5 hours ago, DeathByNissan55 said:

For that Actuator, is it bad to leave the truck in auto 4x4 then?  Majority of the time I leave it in auto, but I really only need 2wd until winter comes.

Yeah I’d put it back into 2wd for sure.

Posted

thats dumb, why even have an auto mode then haha

Thanks for letting me know, i'll be changing that on my way out of work today.

 

Truck came off the shipping truck with a check engine light on *facepalm* taking it into dealership and having whatever is wrong fixed under NY state lemon law.
Has some minor electrical issues too.  But it looks BEAUTIFUL....discovered it has a 100mph gov though ?

Posted

Search cam phaser failure Ford or Ram.

 

The governments  want fuel efficient engines.

 

This is just how it is.

 

They use high tech solutions this adds parts and increase the potential for issue.

 

 

Posted

Just took mine in for the second time this year to get half the rods and lifters replaced ?? Its a '15 high country, and I only have around 30k left on the warranty. I'm thinking it may have to go soon unless I find a reasonable explanation of why this keeps happening and a surefire way to fix it. Any ideas? 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I had pondered the thought of purchasing a new $60k+ GMC Sierra 6.2, but after talking with some GM mechanics and reading these GM truck forums, I’ve yet to do so. I just keep plugging along in my 1999 5.3 Silverado Z71 with 320K on the odo and no engine/tranny issues whatsoever, and a REAL throttle cable, not this DBW electronic bullshit. Original paint, no rust, just normal wear & tear parts replaced due to age. Luckily, I was able to save $$ by replacing most of the parts myself vs $120 an hour rate. 

 

These modern 6.2 engines are total junk and that includes the 5.3 as well. When I was at a local GMC dealership browsing new trucks, there were 3 fairly new trucks in the garage bays for lifter failure, one of which was catastrophic engine failure. All were covered under warranty, but now you own an unreliable POS. I guess it’s just brand loyalty these days that keeps the buyer coming back, even if it’s junk. More scarier than that was what a salesman told me that day: “It’s HP & displacement that sell a truck.” Oh well, when that day does come, “crate motor, here I come!” 

Edited by Patrick 1971
  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Capt Bob said:

Horseshit.

Wait, that's it. Buy a horse.

I applaud you to have a 99 with no rust and issues. That same truck in Nova Scotia would be in the bone yard many moons ago although there maybe the exceptions but I haven't seen them. I have a 17 High Country 6.2L bought new and I'm doing everything so it won't rust with yearly undercoating and module since new. So far so good it's like new yet underneath no rust. As far as powertrain Amsoil from front to back since new with a catch can also deleted AFM. Crossing fingers to get many years out of the old girl.

Posted
5 hours ago, Patrick 1971 said:

I had pondered the thought of purchasing a new $60k+ GMC Sierra 6.2, but after talking with some GM mechanics and reading these GM truck forums, I’ve yet to do so. I just keep plugging along in my 1999 5.3 Silverado Z71 with 320K on the odo and no engine/tranny issues whatsoever, and a REAL throttle cable, not this DBW electronic bullshit. Original paint, no rust, just normal wear & tear parts replaced due to age. Luckily, I was able to save $$ by replacing most of the parts myself vs $120 an hour rate. 

Not everyone wants to drive some brokedick truck.  DBW is vastly superior to cable throttles for traction/stability control and throttle tuning.  

 

I had a 2002 Avalanche North Face Edition for 10 years, same basic setup as your '99.  Plenty of rust issues (especially brake lines and eventually fuel lines).  I replaced it due to not wanting to worry about problems towing on long vacation trips; leaking fuel line and broken exhaust weld on a single trip, replacing a wheel hub assembly in a Wendy's parking lot on a different trip.  Not a confidence builder.  Had it strand me with a dead fuel pump at 85k miles.  I'll take my chances with my new truck.

Posted
2 hours ago, Nitrousbird said:

Not everyone wants to drive some brokedick truck.  DBW is vastly superior to cable throttles for traction/stability control and throttle tuning.  

 

I had a 2002 Avalanche North Face Edition for 10 years, same basic setup as your '99.  Plenty of rust issues (especially brake lines and eventually fuel lines).  I replaced it due to not wanting to worry about problems towing on long vacation trips; leaking fuel line and broken exhaust weld on a single trip, replacing a wheel hub assembly in a Wendy's parking lot on a different trip.  Not a confidence builder.  Had it strand me with a dead fuel pump at 85k miles.  I'll take my chances with my new truck.

And a qualified driver will do better than any of the nanny-aids.  I still daily my '84 GMC that doesn't have a spec of rust anywhere, and isn't garaged up here in upstate NY.  It isn't hard to keep a truck from rusting, it just takes a little effort.  It's been NY-FL a few times, and will be going back down in a few years when I build another house.

 

If a new truck is more reliable than an old truck, the issue isn't the truck, it's the maintainer.

Posted

i also had the 1999 Silverado, wish i never sold it.  all it needed was trans rebuild and i would of saved $30,000 over my POS K2xx truck.  those where easy to work on and parts are very cheap. enjoy that old beast bud! the new trucks T1 models are bigger Pieces of unreliable shit" dont buy just lease the new garbage.. evrything will be autonimous and electric soon, and the Government will have lock outs on the next models that will further add limitations to our travels, THink Universal ID for your car when driving cross country. 

  • 2 months later...
Posted

2016 Yukon XL Denali 6.2 liter   65K miles had a bent push rod and rocker arm (just out of powertrain warranty)  Now at 72K miles I collapsed lifters and a dead cam.  Over $4,000 to repair, but GM will cover 25% of that because I am a "loyal" customer (This is my 10th consecutive Suburban/Yukon XL).    Anyone know how to convince the GM cost assistance rep that this is a lousy offer?

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 3,061 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yep, just a quick reference point.    My main point being I’d do a thousand other things before I’d pay 10k for a transmission.    Speaking in ignorance cause I don’t look at these trucks, what is it worth? 20k?
    • I think users are going to want to pick their monitored parameters, which parameters they want to see first.    It should probably start with baseline at a minimum and adjust to learned, but be able to overlay baseline for comparison.   A simple severity level would be able to determine what type of alerting is appropriate or user selectable.    Why not use the OBD port though?   I think a phone connection would be a good idea, push notifications type deal.   Number 1 issue is having data is useless if you don’t know what the data should be under normal conditions. 
    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...