Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I am on a mission to figure out how to remove the active grill shutter system from my truck without having to live with a CEL so I can install the RC 30" light bar behind the grill.

 

I have a Diablo i3 and can easily clear the code and reset the light, but it will just keep coming back.

 

I've read posts of folks hacking up the assembly and stowing away the motor with the stops glued to it?  This sounds too backwoods and unreliable for me.  There has to be another way.  Is this system controlled via the BCM?  If so, perhaps Chris White can hack the BCM to forget it had the shutters?  

 

The light bar sits at the very bottom of the shutter assembly.  I know the bottom two shutters can be removed easily, but guys are saying the bar still won't fit.  I assume it is the "center spine" hump running vertically in the middle of the assembly where the motor is located that is interfering with the bar?  Can just the lowermost portion of this hump be cut out to make room for the bar?

 

Let's brainstorm together and make this happen!

 

 

 

 

Posted

Can I just remove all the shutters from the assembly and cut on the two yellow lines to free up the portion with the motor and stops?  Wouldn't this keep it all intact so I can just stow it away somewhere out of the way?  What is there to glue to the motor if I do it this way?

s-l1600.jpg

Posted

so what is the downside of removing this..?.. 

Posted
9 minutes ago, Crstfr said:

so what is the downside of removing this..?.. 

The CEL just keeps coming back because it thinks something is wrong.  Can be annoying when you know why its there and you want it gone for good.  Makes the truck seem a little less hacked together.  

Posted
10 minutes ago, Crstfr said:

so what is the downside of removing this..?.. 

Decreased MPG, longer engine warm-up time in cold weather, and MOST IMPORTANTLY, "Check Engine" light is illuminated and codes are triggered.

  • Like 1
Posted

Has anyone had a problem with this, replacing the grille? I just purchased a new grille and want to install but now worried I might run into a problem. Here is the grill 

27023762_1736023849753315_2514904338691965312_o.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

The grill is no problem - it goes IN FRONT OF the grill shutters. 

 

I'm trying to install a lightbar BEHIND the grill - that's where the shutters become a problem.

Edited by lapoolboy
Posted
20 minutes ago, lapoolboy said:

The grill is no problem - it goes IN FRONT OF the grill shutters. 

 

I'm trying to install a lightbar BEHIND the grill - that's where the shutters become a problem.

Ok great. I was worried about the depth. since this grill is more recessed. I wanted to install a lightbar also so hopefully someone can help.

 

Posted

While I really like my lights mounted behind the grill, I would give them up to keep the shutter system, if my truck had them. 

Posted

My shutters make the heater work alot faster for sure. Comparing my 16 to my 17 I can say that definitively. Beyond the heater I don't know that they do much else.

I don't understand why everyone goes crazy for these LED lights that are illegal to run on public highways, and 2016 and newer lights are really good anyway.

These work great offroad if that's the goal though, as I have them on my Polaris Ranger.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Really surprised a company like rough country hasn't come out with a plug in error eliminator. I'm sure it would sell well with the amount of people wanting to remove these for various reasons.  I would hate to cut up the factory part as I',m sure its expensive (anyone know the actual cost?)

 

I ended up just getting the rough country Bull Bar with the built in 90W led bar because I couldn't be bothered with the amount of work to get the LED bar in the grill.

 

jhds54y.jpg

Posted
Has anyone had a problem with this, replacing the grille? I just purchased a new grille and want to install but now worried I might run into a problem. Here is the grill 

27023762_1736023849753315_2514904338691965312_o.thumb.jpg.4f570cffa47c72fde5c13c50f33433b6.jpg

That looks nice. What’s the brand?

 

Edit: I see it says race mesh now

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 3 months later...
Posted
Can I just remove all the shutters from the assembly and cut on the two yellow lines to free up the portion with the motor and stops?  Wouldn't this keep it all intact so I can just stow it away somewhere out of the way?  What is there to glue to the motor if I do it this way?
s-l1600.thumb.jpg.d2572acbffbeaea46a291e0fdea1fa08.jpg
Good idea I think it should work. Have you tried to do your idea?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Posted
1 hour ago, alodawg26 said:

Why are you wanting to remove this? 

It's earlier in the thread.  He's trying to make room for a light bar behind the grille.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I just can't think of the exact term GM uses for that higher gvw package without looking at the website but basically sort of a trailering package and I imagine it may also have been created to skirt around the licensing fee differences between a3/4 and 1 ton that apply in some states although ironically I believe in some states its the reverse that a 1 ton is the cheaper truck to license over a 3/4 ton. It makes no difference here in Alberta but oddly enough a 1 ton through my insurance company is a bit cheaper to insure over a 3/4 ton as its based on the insurance statistics they generate.    For sure when ever you do have the chance to weigh your truck and to be fair, try to have the fuel tank full or nearly so rather than give yourself a false sense of the truck being lighter by having an almost empty tank.    In my other comment I was mentioning stock sized tires and partly in case someone was reading this and thinking they could lower their pressure down to what your aftermarket tires are able to do with your empty truck as that is a vastly different picture in the leeway you have to play with for running minimum pressures while remaining safe. I will say also that its easy to see from reactions of truck owners that may have been more used to owning a half ton in the past or a car and be it on a forum like this or in person etc that they get so wrapped up in that placard pressure sticker that they can't get their head wrapped around the fact that an HD truck due to how much it can carry can also vary the tire pressures drastically lower than those pressures ( typically more so for the rear axle on stock sized tires ) when empty vs some car that isn't made to carry much so the tire pressures can't be lowered since it needs almost that much pressure just to carry the empty car.    If I ever do find myself in the states with this truck, I will only be too happy to switch it over to the US measuring system as then I will understand all the dash readings. The only thing that is off for me slightly with US measurements is US miles per gallon as I grew up with the Imperial gallon and to this day up here anyway speak in Imperial miles per gallon ( I don't do that on this forum though as that would confuse everyone for no good reason ). 
    • Yes that's right, it's the upgrade that includes the overload spring and all that stuff.   Someday when I'm empty and going by a scale I'm going to stop in and get some weight readings.   Exactly  you should have the ability to change individual settings, in in Canada so I'm driving with kph but then I'm stuck with kpa when I want psi lol    
    • You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...