Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Very disappointed... this is a truck... 150 watts is useless... I really fail to understand how the designers could sit around a conference room table and think adding this feature to a truck was a good idea.Might be good for a small car but not a truck! Give us 15amps at 120volts  or go away. Just dumb. 

Posted
1 hour ago, Don Ariola said:

Very disappointed... this is a truck... 150 watts is useless... I really fail to understand how the designers could sit around a conference room table and think adding this feature to a truck was a good idea.Might be good for a small car but not a truck! Give us 15amps at 120volts  or go away. Just dumb. 

 

Because it's something that at least a few people could and do use (150W outlet).

 

Your 15A/120VAC outlet basically requires the plow package upgrade, as would require AT LEAST 150A (more due to losses converting DC to AC).  And using it, you either get a dead battery pretty quickly, or you need the truck running AND the motor revved up so the alternators are working at close to their maximum output.

 

That costs a bundle of money to put in every truck, when the majority of people will make do with the low power outlet.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I use mine to on my air mattress pump when I go camping. I also use it to charge my Milwaukee power tool batteries and my laptop.

 

I have never had it not work for me. But then again, I am a reasonable person. The people that expect this to work like a job site generator are crazy.

Posted

I occasionally use the outlet to charge the battery for my RC crawler while I'm driving.  If the truck is parked, I connect the AC/DC charger directly to the battery, since the outlet turns off when the key is out.  I'm only charging at 5A, and around 8V.

 

47926877338_8d5086a1f6_c.jpgIMG_2690_edited by Ryan Jakob, on Flickr

  • Like 2
Posted
On 7/4/2019 at 2:08 PM, rkj__ said:

If the truck is parked, I connect the AC/DC charger directly to the battery, since the outlet turns off when the key is out. 

You can change it so the outlet stays hot all the time.  You need to move a fuse from one position to another (I think it's from space 10 to space 11).  Check your manual or search these forums for instructions.  I did it to mine years ago and use the outlet all the time now.

Posted
20 hours ago, sk said:

You can change it so the outlet stays hot all the time.  You need to move a fuse from one position to another (I think it's from space 10 to space 11).  Check your manual or search these forums for instructions.  I did it to mine years ago and use the outlet all the time now.

Good to know, thanks.

 

I'll still continue to connect direct to the battery when not driving the truck though, for a couple reasons.  First, it's more efficient.  There is no need to convert DC to AC, then back to DC.  Second, I don't like to leave a LiPo battery charging out of sight.  While I consider the risk to be very low, it's not hard to find a few tales of batteries bursting into flames when charging. 

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Not enough juice to power a power tool battery charger. Anyone know if it can be upgraded for higher wattage?

Posted (edited)

Well a little math and it looks like  1.3 amps on 115 volts and I assume thats continuous  rated so you might get a little more out for a short time.  Certainly not enough for a crock pot, your table saw or microwave. 

I am assuming there is an inverter someplace that could be upgraded to perhaps 500 watts. But your going to draw a lot of 12 vdc amps to do 42 or so and thats not figuring in the loss in the inverter which could add  20%, just guessing. 

Edited by wmgeorge64
  • 8 months later...
Posted

on my 2016 I just used it to bower a craftsman 1/4 sheet palm sander, when first plugged in it worked for a second or so that failed. unplugged it waited a couple of minutes truck running, plugged it back in with the green light on bright and it worked long enough to complete the sanding job, That too about 30 minutes.

Posted

I've charged every electronic device imaginable with mine. I also plug my Ryobi 18 volt six pack charger into it from time to time. I also regularly run my electric shaver from it with no issue(other than ground up whiskers in my perforated seats).

 

I sold a table saw to a guy a few years ago(3 HP). I met him in the parking lot at the local grocery store. He pulled out a 100 foot long extension cord and plugged it into the dash. I told him it wouldn't work but he tried anyway. He insisted the saw was bad until I plugged my electric razor into his truck and it worked. I was a bit baffled myself because I though he blew a fuse. Apparently there is some sort of electronic protection in there.

Posted
On 8/11/2020 at 1:26 PM, Cheverado said:

I've charged every electronic device imaginable with mine. I also plug my Ryobi 18 volt six pack charger into it from time to time. I also regularly run my electric shaver from it with no issue(other than ground up whiskers in my perforated seats).

 

I sold a table saw to a guy a few years ago(3 HP). I met him in the parking lot at the local grocery store. He pulled out a 100 foot long extension cord and plugged it into the dash. I told him it wouldn't work but he tried anyway. He insisted the saw was bad until I plugged my electric razor into his truck and it worked. I was a bit baffled myself because I though he blew a fuse. Apparently there is some sort of electronic protection in there.

There's definitely some protection in there, I'm no electrician so i can't explain what kind lol.  After running a blow up air mattress and a jig saw on mine I brought a coffee maker to the camp site.  Was real sad when I had to pay for coffee at the general store, but didn't blow a fuse after trying the coffee pot 3 or 4 times ?

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have plugged in a small compressor to this outlet and it didn’t have enough power to run the pump. Pump just made a weird noise and I unplugged it. I am now getting a sluggish start when it cranks over and a couple times now the battery acts as if it’s dead and won’t start the truck, needs jumped. I have had the battery tested (it’s a high output gel battery) and it still tests fine. Could it be a relay that is bad draining the battery when it’s parked? And if so where would it be located? I would think the inverter has to have a relay or module somewhere.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,318 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yes that's right, it's the upgrade that includes the overload spring and all that stuff.   Someday when I'm empty and going by a scale I'm going to stop in and get some weight readings.   Exactly  you should have the ability to change individual settings, in in Canada so I'm driving with kph but then I'm stuck with kpa when I want psi lol    
    • You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...