Brake Job Experience & Advice

[Darksky]

My 2015  CCSB High Country 1500 Silverado 6.2L is in need of it’s first brake job. The truck has 47,000+ miles on it and while I have not heard a “wear” squealer, I did hear a slight dragging sound while coming to a stop yesterday morning.  After letting it cool, I took a peek and noted that the outside of the driver’s rotor was not as smooth as it should be. I’m guessing that at some point the caliper didn’t retract as it should have and hung,  causing premature wear on that pad. The other pads while worn are not near the end of their service life.

 

Historically, I’ve done my own brake jobs and even invested in a Motive brand power bleeder. It is a simple plastic pressure tank that you pump up with a hand pump included in the filler. You then screw the correct adapter onto the top of your brake reservoir allowing you to bleed your brakes without an accomplice.  It wasn’t too expensive and it makes short work of brake jobs. It also makes flushing your brakes simple. “I like it a lot”. What ever brand you choose, a power bleeder is a good tool.

 

I have used DuraLast Gold pads, shoes, drums and discs in the past with good luck. I had an in with a counterman and got “brother in law” pricing. They have always worked okay and never let me down.  However, with my new truck I’m in the hunt for the elusive BETTER... on this truck I have a six inch lift and am currently running 34.6 inch tall tires on 18x9 wheels. I like the smaller wheels so that I may have more sidewall height to smooth out the bumps. I live in the country and do a lot of gravel and ranch road driving.

 

I have ave seen a few references to PowerStop Z36 brakes and rotors and read a few threads where someone used them, but haven’t seen a good breakdown of wear and function by anyone after putting 20,000 miles on a set. I also saw on reference to Brembo rotors in stock size being used, but no review. 

 

From what  I understand the factory front rotors are 13 inch and replacement ones can be had in 13 or 13.6 six inch without any mods. Opting for the slightly bigger ones make sense to me, the idea of slotted drilled rotors may or may not make a huge impact on performance on our trucks, but I struggle to see any real negative side to them (as long as a quality product is used) Currently a Big Brake Kit is out of reach for me cost wise. However I’m not opposed to spending a dollar for performance upgrades. Ceramic vs. stickier compound pads, coated or slotted, dimpled rotors, upgraded calipers, higher temp fluids, or anything else you might consider important.

 

So here is my question:

What have you used? How did they perform and last? Based on your experience what would you recommend? 

 

Whatever I end up using. I will follow up and let you know how it worked out for me in the short and long run.  Please post your thoughts and be specific about what you have used- good or bad. This is a great forum with a wealth of knowledgeable users, thanks for your input.

 

[sdeeter19555]

Search my username and brakes in the 2500 section...I did PowerStop pads and I believe Wagner anti-corrosion rotors. I did the corrosion resistant rotors because that's what typically causes my brake issues (scale/rust buildup).

I have probably 10k on mine with good results...they feel very similar to OE pads in my opinion.

2012 2500hd 6.0l CCSB 4wd

[Black02Silverado]

I can't help you there since my 2002 still has the original brakes on the front with 179k miles on it.

[Yonah_Mtn]

With my truck or her Volvo T5 (turbo and intercooler) I stick with OE. The Corvette has Wilwood which go beyond OE. The reason is the difference between two stock vehicles and a highly modified one.

[Darksky]

Lots of good knowledge in your Rotor post, Sdeeter. Thank you. I’m now looking at different rotors and am most likely landing on the powerstop 36 pads as well. Anyone care to weigh in on ceramic vs metallic pads on their truck?

[Yonah_Mtn]

This might be of assistance:

http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/the-best-brake-pads-ceramic-or-metallic.aspx

[sdeeter19555]

From my understanding, ceramic is a dust-reduction where semi-metallic will be dirtier and wear the rotors harder. Whether the added wear can be read as better stopping, I don't know.

2012 2500hd 6.0l CCSB 4wd

[Yonah_Mtn]

Personally, I use semi-metallics from Wilwood on the Corvette and whatever GM or Volvo recommends on my Canyon and Volvo. I keep it simple which works for me.

 

[Spendit]

Just installed power stops on my '14 - only a pad swap as there is just 42K on the vehicle and rotors looked good. I only have put ~15K on truck myself bought used by someone who never used it as a truck I think. 3 weeks into it and no complaints so far.....I have used power stops on the various cars in my fleet over the past 5 years and they even out lasted a few cars (kids like to run into things .

[Kubs]

I have not had to do brakes on my '18  yet but on all my other vehicles I use Centric Premiums which have the black e-coating on the hats and around the edges.  They always look good for along time.

 

For pads, it depends on the vehicle.  Most passenger cars will do fine with good semi-metallic.  The reason ceramics appear to have low dust is that the dust is almost clear so it is harder to see.  Since I use the truck to tow, I like to use a pad that can handle the temp of stopping a trailer/load but also works well at colder temperatures.  I like G-Loc GS-1 or R6 compounds for the tow vehicle.  The R6 is a little more aggressive with better bite. It wears out a little quicker, but either one is low dust and low noise.  I will probably go with one of those for my '18 when the time comes.

[Doublebase]

I haven't done my brakes yet in my 2018 but what I'm finding with drilled/slotted rotors is that you have to be careful with the quality of the product. You have to know going in that they drill or machine through those rotors, exposing metal, removing metal...it can lead to rust, early excessive wear, even runout. Unless you buy a real high end performance rotor I think it's a bit of a waste. And it's hard to machine a drilled/slotted rotor if you need to.

 

I really like these new rotors that are coated for rust prevention, they seem to be holding up pretty well. There's ones that just coat the hat and edge of the rotor, or you can spend a little more and pay for the whole thing to be coated. 

 

As for your excessive wear on one pad...obviously check the caliper pins to see if they're still lined and free...and when you push the caliper piston back in take note of how easily it goes back in (or not). You may not find a problem there at all - then again you have to ask yourself...maybe I should just throw a caliper on it because I don't want to risk ruining my new pads and rotor. 

[spectaculous]

aren't the stock rotors Duralife (GM's ferritic nitrocarburized)?  i'm over 112K miles on the stock rotors and pads. I am thinking i will replace with new stock pads and rotors when i finally do need to do a brake job, if they give me that much life...  i doubt the nitriding on the original rotors is intact, and rotors aren't that expensive... so why not go back with new FNC rotors?

[Mike GMC]

Agreed.  The stock brakes on my 15 are great.  When the time comes, I'm going to replace them with OE pads and rotors.  The stock brakes on my 00 sucked and I've tried several "upgraded" pads and rotors.  Most were no better than stock.  However, the EBC pads rotors I have now seem to be better.  I got the stage 4 kit from Summit. A little more money that some other brands, but they seem to be worth it.