Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
23 minutes ago, Madcow2020 said:

They do make everything sound better. There has been tests that show slight increases. Don’t get an oiled one. Use the factory filter or an oilers one. Oh did I mention I like the throatier sound mine gave the truck. I think the biggest gain will be seen with an exhaust. They factory ones are much better now than the ones in the past. You could always just get the tube that replaces the factory one and it frees up space makes the engine compartment look better, oh and sounds better.

I think I covered the topic. Mine is a coolant MIT Kit with the non oiled drop in filter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you have a boxed in intake or an open one? I dont know the lingo haha

I'm interested about the noise.... I was curious about whether it makes the engine run better and if theres any mpg gain? I've been looking at the corsa sport line for awhile for exhaust

Posted
8 hours ago, hendersonc047 said:

No updates so far, still saving money..... never ends...

Also, going on vacations and stuff cuts into it. Having fun while I can!

Honestly the rack is dope, the only trouble I have with rtt's is that I cant drive anywhere after I have my camp set up but that's just me. Leitner is dope!

20190419_144129.jpg

Yes right now I'm going back and forth and see pro's con's to both. I like being able to drive w/o packing up, but hate trailers. RTT on the truck is more stable. I've been toying with replacing my current RTT to a clamshell, so its quicker to close up.OM8Ieh8.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
10 minutes ago, Ducky said:

Yes right now I'm going back and forth and see pro's con's to both. I like being able to drive w/o packing up, but hate trailers. RTT on the truck is more stable. I've been toying with replacing my current RTT to a clamshell, so its quicker to close up.OM8Ieh8.jpg

That's ****in sweet, maybe try some stabilizers with quick release pins on the trailer to help with stability? I domt know I'm just a noob. I know the tents are heavy as dicks though. I dont know how much you camp but does the tent on top really effect the mpgs? If it's a daily I'm sure that gets tiring

Posted
Just now, hendersonc047 said:

That's ****in sweet, maybe try some stabilizers with quick release pins on the trailer to help with stability? I domt know I'm just a noob. I know the tents are heavy as dicks though. I dont know how much you camp but does the tent on top really effect the mpgs? If it's a daily I'm sure that gets tiring

Quite honestly, I don't pay attention to MPG, I have a full size truck, I don't expect it to be great lol. Maybe? I don't notice it when its on the truck.

 

I have these for the trailer that helps immensely:

 

https://www.campingworld.com/universal-rv-stabilizer-34337.html

but the truck doesnt move as much as the trailer when you are trying to shimmy down to use the bathroom =)

  • Like 1
Posted
16 minutes ago, Ducky said:

Quite honestly, I don't pay attention to MPG, I have a full size truck, I don't expect it to be great lol. Maybe? I don't notice it when its on the truck.

 

I have these for the trailer that helps immensely:

 

https://www.campingworld.com/universal-rv-stabilizer-34337.html

but the truck doesnt move as much as the trailer when you are trying to shimmy down to use the bathroom =)

Midnight dumps get the best of us hahaha

Posted
Do you have a boxed in intake or an open one? I dont know the lingo haha
I'm interested about the noise.... I was curious about whether it makes the engine run better and if theres any mpg gain? I've been looking at the corsa sport line for awhile for exhaust

Sorry I have the Airraid MIT system. It keeps the stock air box and replaces the tube between the air box and throttle body. I have had cone filters before and they just get dirty quick.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted
18 minutes ago, Madcow2020 said:


Sorry I have the Airraid MIT system. It keeps the stock air box and replaces the tube between the air box and throttle body. I have had cone filters before and they just get dirty quick.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sweet, I think a guy I watch on YouTube did an install of that system so I'll have to watch it again! Thanks dawg!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hows everyone doing? I havnt done anything with the truck in awhile

Maybe I'll hit some trails, I've been real busy and havnt had much spare cash to make the dream work. This picture is from a couple weekends ago where it had rained for a good amount of time and as soon as I get out there the sun came out. Also, my drls are good, just the camera.

20190419_140148.jpg

Posted

Work has me busy, hoping to get out camping in the next week or two..

fp2xpKI.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Does anyone have experience with fox shocks? I know there are threads on here already but I just want a quick answer and not have to read 20plus replies on why and why not. I have been looking into an icon stage one, but if I could save like $500 and get the same performance from fox, I'll do that? Thanks guys

Posted
Does anyone have experience with fox shocks? I know there are threads on here already but I just want a quick answer and not have to read 20plus replies on why and why not. I have been looking into an icon stage one, but if I could save like $500 and get the same performance from fox, I'll do that? Thanks guys


They're just as good as the rest of them, the valving will be a little bit different but I'd be willing to bet most people wouldn't be able to tell the difference. Does the $500 less include rear shocks too?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted

Icon sells the stage one kit as a complete set up around $1800. Fox sells it all separate, and all together is around $500 less than icon. But the site I'm looking at has free shipping on the complete setup from icon.

I know icon has different valving and all that science, but would I have to rebuild them sooner than fox? Will they last longer?

Posted
Icon sells the stage one kit as a complete set up around $1800. Fox sells it all separate, and all together is around $500 less than icon. But the site I'm looking at has free shipping on the complete setup from icon.
I know icon has different valving and all that science, but would I have to rebuild them sooner than fox? Will they last longer?


They'll be the same reliability/rebuild wise


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
13 hours ago, hendersonc047 said:

In your opinion is it worth it to just get the icon complete kit?

Fox is a far more renown name in suspension. From bicycles to airplanes. If both sets are comparable as is shock body size, and reservoir set up, I would probably go Fox even if they were priced the same. I can still get Fox parts to rebuilt shocks on a 1996 Polaris snowmobile, will you be able to get Icon parts in 23 years? Not like you will have the truck or shocks by then but just a thought to consider. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
    • Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
    • I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...