What's the next mod we all want Phil Gamboa to figure out?

[pgamboa]

That's a lot of wiring!
 
Keep us informed.  I want to do something similar but a little simpler (just drive an extra set of LED lights off the additional button on the lower right of the headlight knob).

You can, but you’ll need the latching relay like I have shown in the pic. The wiring is not bad. Just looks intimidating.


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[sk]

28 minutes ago, pgamboa said:

You can, but you’ll need the latching relay like I have shown in the pic. The wiring is not bad. Just looks intimidating.


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That's why I'll let you figure it out then just sell me the parts 

[stassin22]

You can, but you’ll need the latching relay like I have shown in the pic. The wiring is not bad. Just looks intimidating.


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Where did you get the latching relay from?


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[Z-TRUCK]

I understand the tread is “What to have Phil Figure out next”  and this may of already been asked? But was wondering if Phil or others have any interest or info, on the possibility of “Blind Spot Alert”  on these Gen trucks? I see that the Tahoe & Suburb’ Have mirrors that look like they would fit? I understand it’s a different vehicle, but is that possible? Thanks ...

[pgamboa]

I understand the tread is “What to have Phil Figure out next”  and this may of already been asked? But was wondering if Phil or others have any interest or info, on the possibility of “Blind Spot Alert”  on these Gen trucks? I see that the Tahoe & Suburb’ Have mirrors that look like they would fit? I understand it’s a different vehicle, but is that possible? Thanks ...

The mirrors don’t fit.

Also, anything that has to do with the safety part of the system, you’d be hard pressed to get WAMS to program whatever modules are needed (if it can be done), due liabilities. Since it’s safety related.


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[Z-TRUCK]

53 minutes ago, pgamboa said:

The mirrors don’t fit.

Also, anything that has to do with the safety part of the system, you’d be hard pressed to get WAMS to program whatever modules are needed (if it can be done), due liabilities. Since it’s safety related.


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Oh ok, well that’s why I asked you . Just a thought. Oh well, sounded good anyways. Thanks 

[Silverado1475]

Im sure this has been talked about, but i cant seem to find it. 

Switching the 2014 DRL from the low beam headlight to a different light. Like these aftermarket with the LED strip in center. 

https://www.protuninglab.com/20chsi15253515.html

making it so the low beam lights are still automatic, but the DRLs are the LED strip.

 

Can that be done? Since im wanting HID low beams.

[pgamboa]

Im sure this has been talked about, but i cant seem to find it. 

Switching the 2014 DRL from the low beam headlight to a different light. Like these aftermarket with the LED strip in center. 

https://www.protuninglab.com/20chsi15253515.html

making it so the low beam lights are still automatic, but the DRLs are the LED strip.

 

Can that be done? Since im wanting HID low beams.

Maybe post this on the general help section. I have no experience with aftermarket headlights.


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[leoshorty]

Is there a thread about that headlight switch yet? I assume those are both momentary switches for fog lights and what was the other one for from the factory?

[pgamboa]

Is there a thread about that headlight switch yet? I assume those are both momentary switches for fog lights and what was the other one for from the factory?

No thread yet. But yes, both are momentary ground signals. The factory fog light switch (lower left button), sends this signal to the BCM, the BCM acts as the latching relay and sends the constant signal to the relay under the hood. So if you have factory fog lights now, this will work as normal.

The other button (lower right), is to drive the Off Road Lamps (ORL) that are mounted on top of the Sport Bar. There is a “kit” out there for Canton/Colorado’s that includes the lamps, switch, and harness for the upgrade. There is also documenting that explains how to install this and that some later model trucks’ BCM is already programmed to latch the ORL Signal from the switch. The harnesses also intercept the CHMSL (Center High Mount Stop Lamp - Or Cargo Light [emoji3]) since that light is now blocked by the bar.

The idea here is to use that switch/signal and use it to drive another light source, using our own methods.

So for light bars, aux lights, etc etc.


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[leoshorty]

1 hour ago, pgamboa said:

No thread yet. But yes, both are momentary ground signals. The factory fog light switch (lower left button), sends this signal to the BCM, the BCM acts as the latching relay and sends the constant signal to the relay under the hood. So if you have factory fog lights now, this will work as normal.

The other button (lower right), is to drive the Off Road Lamps (ORL) that are mounted on top of the Sport Bar. There is a “kit” out there for Canton/Colorado’s that includes the lamps, switch, and harness for the upgrade. There is also documenting that explains how to install this and that some later model trucks’ BCM is already programmed to latch the ORL Signal from the switch. The harnesses also intercept the CHMSL (Center High Mount Stop Lamp - Or Cargo Light ) since that light is now blocked by the bar.

The idea here is to use that switch/signal and use it to drive another light source, using our own methods.

So for light bars, aux lights, etc etc.


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Will the latching relays latch a ground? Or only power? My brain says it should complete the circuit either way but I don’t know enough about the latching relays and factory switches to wrap my head around it. Does each fog lamp switch have its own input and output or do they use a common input for everything in the headlight switch assembly and just have separate outputs? I need a constant ground on one circuit and constant hot on another. 

[pgamboa]

Will the latching relays latch a ground? Or only power? My brain says it should complete the circuit either way but I don’t know enough about the latching relays and factory switches to wrap my head around it. Does each fog lamp switch have its own input and output or do they use a common input for everything in the headlight switch assembly and just have separate outputs? I need a constant ground on one circuit and constant hot on another. 

The latching relay will accept a positive or negative trigger signal. Switched ACC power is delivered to relay to power it up. Constant power, or whatever power source you want delivered to each channel of the relay is landed on the common port. Then NO (normally open) goes to the light/Accessory.

When the relay gets the trigger (from the switch), it’ll close the relay, sending that power source to the light.


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[sk]

16 hours ago, Silverado1475 said:

Im sure this has been talked about, but i cant seem to find it. 

Switching the 2014 DRL from the low beam headlight to a different light. Like these aftermarket with the LED strip in center. 

https://www.protuninglab.com/20chsi15253515.html

making it so the low beam lights are still automatic, but the DRLs are the LED strip.

 

Can that be done? Since im wanting HID low beams.

Just remember that the current DRL's send a pulsed signal to the halogen bulbs.  Some LED strips don't like this pulsing and will flicker.

 

I wanted something similar but I think I am going to install a set of Putco Dayliners:

https://www.putco.com/led-dayliner-g3

(that's the G3 version but they also may a G2 version and a Switchback version)

 

I was planning to just give them an ignition source so they are on whenever the truck is running.  I may add a simple toggle switch to turn them off when I want (like while idling in Park) but I would rather use Phil's approach and use the new headlight switch with the extra button!

[leoshorty]

5 hours ago, pgamboa said:

The latching relay will accept a positive or negative trigger signal. Switched ACC power is delivered to relay to power it up. Constant power, or whatever power source you want delivered to each channel of the relay is landed on the common port. Then NO (normally open) goes to the light/Accessory.

When the relay gets the trigger (from the switch), it’ll close the relay, sending that power source to the light.


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PM inbound to stop total thread derail.....

[WS6FirebirdTA00]

On 8/22/2018 at 10:05 PM, Silverado1475 said:

Im sure this has been talked about, but i cant seem to find it. 

Switching the 2014 DRL from the low beam headlight to a different light. Like these aftermarket with the LED strip in center. 

https://www.protuninglab.com/20chsi15253515.html

making it so the low beam lights are still automatic, but the DRLs are the LED strip.

 

Can that be done? Since im wanting HID low beams.

Not sure if these newer trucks are the same, but I just disabled the DRL module/pulled the fuse in my old GM cars. 

 

My TSX I did the same (2010), but wanted to run a different light as you mentioned. I ended up running an extra harness and connected to the factory one to run the LED fogs as DRL. They still functioned as normal, but the added switch let them operate independent of headlights. 

 

I would see if there is a DRL specific fuse and then you can get some factory style connectors to piggyback off your light you want to run it as. I ran those signals to some Hella weather tight relays. Not sure if this is what you had in mind. I probably had $50-$75 in it. The relays weren't cheap with the weather tight harness, but it has been reliable for the last 4 years. Did the same on my wife's RDX. 

 

If you have a new thread started PM me a link (forgot to subscribe to alerts on this) and I can give more info there/not derail this one, if you are still trying to figure it out. I just am new to these trucks so I don't know the wiring schematics at all.