Jump to content

Adding GM factory trailer brake controller

McClain210

By McClain210
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

pgamboa
pgamboa

I’ll be adding the factory TBS to mine. Once I have the time. Lol. I’ve got the modules ready to go (to get programming done) along with my cluster. There are 2-3 modules, programming, and wiring

aseibel
aseibel

From what I've heard, the factory controller can't be added later. Need to look at aftermarket controllers.

pgamboa
pgamboa

Nope. Not yet. Module still with WAMS. No free time Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted Images

TinkeringFox Enthusiast

TinkeringFox

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, pgamboa said:


Nope. Not yet. Module still with WAMS. No free time :(


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Free time? Nope, that’s time you’re essentially paying for! Can’t wait to hear the good news....I mean confirmation that I’ll be spending more money on another upgrade!

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Bucknasty Enthusiast

Bucknasty

Posted
Posted

Following this as I want to install one in mine but I like the factory look

  • 4 months later...
rbrjr1 Enthusiast

rbrjr1

Posted
Posted

since I haven't seen a pgamboa video about this subject on YT, I assume it's still a touch further down on the upgrade list..

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
since I haven't seen a pgamboa video about this subject on YT, I assume it's still a touch further down on the upgrade list..

Yup. WAMS has my cluster and TBCM and CCM. Still trying to get them to communicate.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
rbrjr1 Enthusiast

rbrjr1

Posted
Posted

Yup. WAMS has my cluster and TBCM and CCM. Still trying to get them to communicate.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It seems bizarre to me that GM would make something like this so complicated when an aftermarket box can be added so simply (at the cost of major aesthetic points).

Especially when it seems every vehicle with any of the tow package RPOs appear to have the all the hardware to make it happen.. (save the dash switch).
pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
16 hours ago, rbrjr1 said:


It seems bizarre to me that GM would make something like this so complicated when an aftermarket box can be added so simply (at the cost of major aesthetic points).

Especially when it seems every vehicle with any of the tow package RPOs appear to have the all the hardware to make it happen.. (save the dash switch).

Yep.  There are 2-3 modules that are specifically for trailer brake.  So those items are omitted...even though some of the dash harnessing is present.  

  • 4 months later...
swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted
On 2/6/2019 at 7:03 PM, az-4x4 said:

Looks like it can be done now. I'll be trying this out in a month or two.
 

 

This is for a replacement, not adding something that wasn't there before.

On 11/13/2019 at 5:17 AM, rbrjr1 said:


It seems bizarre to me that GM would make something like this so complicated when an aftermarket box can be added so simply (at the cost of major aesthetic points).

Especially when it seems every vehicle with any of the tow package RPOs appear to have the all the hardware to make it happen.. (save the dash switch).

Not bizarre, it's INTEGRATED whereas the other ones are not.  One gets features not usually available with an aftermarket controller, especially from 2012 on. 

No Tyme Senior Enthusiast

No Tyme

Posted
Posted

I have a question that I can't seem to find the answer to... My RV that I would be towing does NOT have ABS brakes, but the truck would have (most likely, as I am currently without a truck). 

The question is... would the integrated TBC have any advantage over say an aftermarket TBC if the truck I purchased did not have it installed from the factory?

swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted
On 4/12/2020 at 10:44 AM, No Tyme said:

I have a question that I can't seem to find the answer to... My RV that I would be towing does NOT have ABS brakes, but the truck would have (most likely, as I am currently without a truck). 

The question is... would the integrated TBC have any advantage over say an aftermarket TBC if the truck I purchased did not have it installed from the factory?

Yes, check the owner's manual of the truck you're looking at for specifics.  ITBC controls sway and the brakes on the trailer during sway for example.

  • 1 month later...
Pinky Z71 New Member

Pinky Z71

Posted
Posted (edited)

Stock controller can't be added later which is lame ...I went with the Redarc controller too, for the remote control ...here's my version

 

 

IMG_20200401_181503.jpg

Edited by Pinky Z71
  • 2 months later...
Necroman99 New Member

Necroman99

Posted
Posted

Gents, at the risk of being sounding dense.  I want to confirm that i cannot just purchase and plug in the new dash piece and controller head?  I bought a tekonsha and was wiring it up and took my dash apart and lo and behold theres the harness for it!  The presense of the harness does not prove that im good to go?

JimCost2014 Senior Enthusiast

JimCost2014

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Necroman99 said:

Gents, at the risk of being sounding dense.  I want to confirm that i cannot just purchase and plug in the new dash piece and controller head?  I bought a tekonsha and was wiring it up and took my dash apart and lo and behold theres the harness for it!  The presense of the harness does not prove that im good to go?

Welcome to the site.

 

No sir, the brake controller is a factory option, and is set up in the ECU, BCM, and so on, it can not be added after the fact. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...