Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm looking through the 2018 Owner's Manual for my 2018 Silverado 1500 LT 4x4 (NOT Z71) and there are 2 different maintenance intervals for changing the transfer case fluid.  With a GVW under 8,600 lbs it should be done every 97,500 miles.  With a GVW over 8,600 lbs the change interval goes to every 45,000 miles.     I guess the cover of the owner's manual DOES just say "Silverado" and not 1500, as I didn't think any 1500 had a GVW over 8,600 lbs.    Assuming they are referring to the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight RATING) which for my vehicle is listed at 7,200 lbs.  

 

Are the fluids really THAT good now?  97,500 miles?  I plan to drive this truck until it drops so I guess I'll find out.  And maybe they are that good now.  After all the manual (on Page 446) also says I can go for 150,000 miles without changing the cooling system fluid.  (Would almost seem demeaning to call the stuff just "antifreeze" these days if it lasts THAT long.)  

Silverado 2018 Owners Manual.pdf

Posted

They are not that good and if you plan to make the truck last as long as possible, you will not try to run them that long.  I can't tell you what the "right" interval is, but I can tell you I have already changed all the fluids in mine and it only has 39k on it.  The t-case fluid looked particularly nasty.  The diffs weren't too bad, but looked like they were ready.  The coolant was definitely ready.  The trans fluid is still clean looking and slightly sweet smelling so it has not been changed yet.  Go figure.

Posted

I'm at 150k and just changed my transfer case fluid. It looked OK. I tow/haul heavy frequently and I was never concerned. Last truck had more miles, harder life, and I never changed the fluid in that. Not sure how many miles on it now but I sold it like 4 years ago and just saw it driving down the road the other day. Don't do a ton of 4x4 though. Just inclement weather and rare off roading.

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

Posted

For the amount of fluid that the T case takes and how easy it is to change why not change it out every 50k?  Not like it is going to break the bank and like I said, it is super easy to do. 

 

Take care of your vehicle and it will take care of you.  I know the manual states a longer interval but in reality one doesn't drive "normal" service much anymore in my book.

 

The coolant change out is 150k miles or five years which ever comes first.  We will hit the time factor on that before we hit the mileage at only putting 22k miles on a year.

Posted
37 minutes ago, Mike GMC said:

The trans fluid is still clean looking and slightly sweet smelling so it has not been changed yet.  Go figure.

Funny, now that I'm looking I don't see that the maintenance schedule EVER says ANYTHING about changing the transmission fluid.  I guess it's "forever fluid" in their book.

Posted

I changed mine at around 58k.  The fluid was not that bad, but the number of metal shavings caught by the drain plug was surprising.  Seems most others had about the same ferrous material on theirs as I did though.  

 

The front differential had the worst fluid in it.  It looked like coffee with some cream it, light brown/brown, thick and gross.  The rear diff had the best looking fluid, almost looked new even at 58k.  Anyways, I replaced fluids in the front and rear differentials and the transfer case all with Amsoil.  Best stuff out there.

Posted

Change the fluid early and they still should have lubricity, and less metal in the fluid, by the change interval the fluid is worn out, and has little metal debris floating in it, and on the magnetic plug, 30-50k Acdelco Dexron VI transmission fluid, for the transfer case and the same stuff for the transmission, just a preference because its what came in the truck. Mine is a 14 Gmc sierra 4x4 Slt 5.3, Z71. I changed out the dexcool at about 145,000. Used the Acdelco concentrated and mixed 50/50 water, after flushing with distilled water. Probably could have done that sooner as it looked bad, and had some minor electrolysis. The front and rear diffs were easy on mine as well, I did the rear around 150,000 and the front sooner around 120-130,000. I replaced the brake fluid around 120,000 or so and it needed changing, it was very dark, when new fluid is almost clear. 

Posted

My new to me 2015 truck has 30k on it.

Just had tranny, t-case, diffs and brake fluid done. Oil was already changed by the selling dealer.

Just a habit I’m in when I buy a used vehicle - swap out the major fluids.

Coolant isn’t stressed like the other fluids so I’ll let that go another year. Which is still a year sooner than the manual recommends.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Posted

Transfer case every 30,000 miles along with front and rear diff.  Unless you drive it thru a lot of water, then do it sooner. 

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I bought my 2014 5.3 LTZ with 68k. It is now up to 75k and I just completed a full gear box service at the dealership. Front + Rear Diffs and the T-Case. Total cost was $343.64. The breakdown is $113.25 in parts and $230.39 in labor. I had every intention to do it myself but just have no time, got a new job. Anyhow, wanted to share what that cost is with everyone that is thinking about doing it at a dealer. I live in Montana. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Unless you are driving in laboratory conditions I would use the severe duty maintenance schedule. The only difference I see between normal and severe schedules are the transfer case fluid changes. 

 

Normal

<8600lb      97.5k miles

>8600lb      45k miles

 

Severe

<8600lb      45k miles

>8600lb      22.5k miles

Posted

Ditto on using the severe condition.  Unless you live in Florida and drive nice and easy. 

Posted

Personally I'd just change it out under the severe service interval or less (I'm a little anal and did mine at 26K miles and I drive that much in a year, so I'll just do it every year). But for all of the gloom and doom around here we hardly ever hear about rear end failures or transfer case failures...so that should tell you something...in the world of "these trucks are bad", you don't hear about these components failing. And you know there are people on here who beat the ever living tar out of these things.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 563 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
    • 2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    
    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...