Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi All,

 

I have a '17 GMC Denali 1500 with 2" level spacer upfront & 285/55R20 BFG K02 on stock Denali wheels.  Love it so far!  One issue though... I do get some light rubbing on the front of the upper a-arms, both driver & passenger sides.  Who's tried adding spacers to this kind of set up & what width of spacer would be used?  I'm leaning towards a 1" spacer, but not sure if that'd be too much.  Thinner spacers may work too but worried about how well they work or if they create issues.    

Posted
1 hour ago, steve76t said:

Hi All,

 

I have a '17 GMC Denali 1500 with 2" level spacer upfront & 285/55R20 BFG K02 on stock Denali wheels.  Love it so far!  One issue though... I do get some light rubbing on the front of the upper a-arms, both driver & passenger sides.  Who's tried adding spacers to this kind of set up & what width of spacer would be used?  I'm leaning towards a 1" spacer, but not sure if that'd be too much.  Thinner spacers may work too but worried about how well they work or if they create issues.    

I have a leveling kit and added 2" spacers to mine.  It's a nice look.  Have not had any issues with bearings going out, the spaces have been on for almost 2 years.

Posted
1 hour ago, btj_z71 said:

I have a leveling kit and added 2" spacers to mine.  It's a nice look.  Have not had any issues with bearings going out, the spaces have been on for almost 2 years.

stock wheels & 2" spacers?  How much do the tires stick out past the fenders?  You wouldn't happen to have any pics available would ya?

Posted

Yes, stock 20" LTZ wheels. I have the Rough Country 2" spacers. They may stick out 1" from the fender. This is with my stock tires too. Can add other pics later if needed. Left is before, right is after.8a9ba20384db69bb56c61c5fb02363af.jpg419182e0204c8403cb8a2b70439edc72.jpg

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Posted

wow, looks good... maybe i need to consider a set of spacers larger than 1".  

Posted

I would love to see more pics.  Especially one closeup of an individual wheel.  I've seen some that look goofy behind the wheel.   I love the stock wheels on my truck but hate the tucked stance.  I assume you went with the kind the bolt onto your hubs and then have their own studs.

 

I know there are tons of different wheel options for the K2 but are they all identical in their stance?

 

How much width do the pocket fender flares add?

Posted

Here are two more from the rear:1db90e3403427ce69090b0e33fb25b29.jpgc36f2b6dab3ebb9a73a870f5fc7ae64c.jpg

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Posted

2" spacers give a good stable look.  Also, on my 2500 1"  would have required cutting studs with my factory Denali wheels.  So, that's why 2"

Posted
18 hours ago, steve76t said:

Hi All,

 

I have a '17 GMC Denali 1500 with 2" level spacer upfront & 285/55R20 BFG K02 on stock Denali wheels.  Love it so far!  One issue though... I do get some light rubbing on the front of the upper a-arms, both driver & passenger sides.  Who's tried adding spacers to this kind of set up & what width of spacer would be used?  I'm leaning towards a 1" spacer, but not sure if that'd be too much.  Thinner spacers may work too but worried about how well they work or if they create issues.    

This tire size is very close to stock and I suspect the rubbing is a result of the level.  I wonder if switching to a smaller level kit would eliminate the rubbing?   A 1" or 1.5" level kit may  provide the look you want and be gentler on your truck.

  • Like 1
Posted

id stay away from wheel spacers and go with what donstar said.

in my book there are two reasons safety, there have been many many people that have had wheels come off even with "good Quality" hub centric spacers and IMO wheels that stick out past to body look goofy.

Posted

I managed to tuck a 33x12.5R20 under my leveled Sierra. But the AT wheels are a +27mm offset which is severe. They touch the UCA's and sway bar at full lock but is very drivable. I have been looking for a 1/2" wheel spacer for the fronts only to kick them out enough to stop the rub but not far enough to destroy my truck with mud, water and rocks. Perhaps a different UCA may cure that as well. I have grown partial to the look of a huge fat tire tucked completely in the wheel well. Almost looks like a chopped axle in the back when the tires are so fat and crammed in there. I really dislike the look of a huge negative offset, and you will wreck your paint if you use your truck for truck stuff.

Posted (edited)

I ran a 1/4" spacer on the front of my truck when I ran factory wheels with 305s, and it helped eliminate a lot of the rub.  With a 285 or 295 I'm sure that 1/4" would get rid of all the rub.  They're nice custom hubcentric pieces, I don't need them anymore since I went aftermarket wheels and control arms, let me know if someone is interested.

spacers.JPG

Edited by pewterliftedz
Posted
On 10/18/2018 at 9:51 AM, L86 All Terrain said:

I managed to tuck a 33x12.5R20 under my leveled Sierra. But the AT wheels are a +27mm offset which is severe. They touch the UCA's and sway bar at full lock but is very drivable. I have been looking for a 1/2" wheel spacer for the fronts only to kick them out enough to stop the rub but not far enough to destroy my truck with mud, water and rocks. Perhaps a different UCA may cure that as well. I have grown partial to the look of a huge fat tire tucked completely in the wheel well. Almost looks like a chopped axle in the back when the tires are so fat and crammed in there. I really dislike the look of a huge negative offset, and you will wreck your paint if you use your truck for truck stuff.

If you have the factory Snowflake wheels, you can run a 1" BORA adapter type spacer, and not have to trim your studs.  Personally I wouldn't go bigger than a 1/4" with slip on spacers, you want to make sure you're getting plenty of thread engagement. 

Posted
3 hours ago, pewterliftedz said:

If you have the factory Snowflake wheels, you can run a 1" BORA adapter type spacer, and not have to trim your studs.  Personally I wouldn't go bigger than a 1/4" with slip on spacers, you want to make sure you're getting plenty of thread engagement. 

Yeah i have the snowflakes. Not sure what a bora adapter is but a .25" slip on style would probably be perfect. I see Rough country has some for $30 so it is worth a shot. I dont like the idea of negative offsets or big spacers that dont have the external studs on them because they act as a fulcrum against your front end wear items and hub studs. Cheers

Posted
7 minutes ago, L86 All Terrain said:

Yeah i have the snowflakes. Not sure what a bora adapter is but a .25" slip on style would probably be perfect. I see Rough country has some for $30 so it is worth a shot. I dont like the idea of negative offsets or big spacers that dont have the external studs on them because they act as a fulcrum against your front end wear items and hub studs. Cheers

BORA is the brand name of quality bolt on adapters:

http://www.motorsport-tech.com/special/truck/chevy_s

 

I personally wouldn't use the Rough County brand spacers, they're lug centric, not hubcentric.  I would go with a set specifically designed for our trucks.  I think I paid $50 for my pair, which isn't cheap, but I had no vibration or balancing issues. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,161 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...