Jump to content

Best Tonneau for under $1,000


Recommended Posts

Posted

For my new '18 Sierra SLT Crew Short Box.  Previous truck was (well, selling it now) and 2nd Gen Escalade EXT.  Prior to that was a 1st Gen Avalanche.  Both have the three piece hard covers that I adore but no one has copied the design. :(

 

Absolute requirements:
- No vinyl covers of any type
- MUST BE WATERPROOF.  Bed on my Escalade stays bone dry 24x7; I want that trend to continue
- Load rated to walk on is a plus but not required
- Quality
Full bed access when open

 

I'm okay with a canister roll up (though fear the bed space it takes), tri-fold or something else I haven't seen yet.  I've read too many quality issues with Bakflip to consider them.

Posted

This is easy the answer is BAKFlip F1. Google it then call them directly and give them your best price they will beat that price and ship it to you. I paid like $750ish. It is a triple fold with lock in and drain lines. Super easy to use.

Posted

There are no 100% waterproof bed covers.  The bed of the truck is not waterproof - would not make sense to design a truck bed that turns into a pool every time it rains.

 

Gator covers are good quality.  Look into purchasing a tailgate seal as well, you will need it.

Posted

Well good luck finding a 100% leak free cover. I don’t have any recommendations for you as I’m a roll up fan but you might want to look at the Rail Caps stake pocket hole covers to help keep out the water/snow that will enter though the pockets. Also I’d pay the extra for the originals not the knock offs now being sold on FleaBay and Amazon as I’ve seen many reports they don’t fix worth a sh!t.

Posted

I know how you feel...I had a 2011 Avalanche and the covers worked great. When i bought by 2015 Sierra I got an Extang Solid Fold 2.0 and like it so much I took it with me to my 2017 Silverado. It's about 80% leak free, but it is a Tri-Fold, so it does not completely open, the last panel stays in place. The best part is that it literally takes 5 minutes to take it off and put it on.

Posted

If these aren't leak free, where do they leak?  I get that the bed itself isn't sealed...it isn't on the EXT / Avalanche either...GM designed drains into the bed floor on them.  But when it rains, is pressure washed, etc, the best stays dry.  That's what I'm used to.  When we take long trips, I pack everything in the bed and would like to keep things nice and dry.  Never an issue with my last two trucks.

Posted

BakFlip Mx4, I am on my 3rd one and really like it for two reasons:

 

1.  Almost waterproof (except the occasional water drops right where the tail gate is).

2.  You can open AND close the tail gate without opening the cover due to the new gasket design.

Posted

I had a BAKFlip F1 on my last truck, and never really had any "leaks."  Hauled cardboard boxes up to my sister-in-law's, in the Bay Area, from San Diego, had a couple spots of rain, boxes were dry when I got there.  I have found some water in the bed after storms, but traveling seemed to do just fine.  Even the bed cover I had on my Ridgeline got some water in the bed, and it's built with seals all the way around.  But I like that it keeps a lot of the dust/dirt out, during the wind storms.

Posted

I'm liking the ACI Lomax of everything I've seen thus far.  I don't like how it won't flip up against the cab, but it is easily removable and probably the closest thing to the EXT / Avalanche setup out there.  Anyone use one of these?

Posted
52 minutes ago, Nitrousbird said:

I'm liking the ACI Lomax of everything I've seen thus far.  I don't like how it won't flip up against the cab, but it is easily removable and probably the closest thing to the EXT / Avalanche setup out there.  Anyone use one of these?

I agree.  I am really happy with my LOMAX.

BackDr.jpg

Posted

Extang Trifecta. I installed a tail gate seal and the stake pocket covers and the only time water gets in is during high pressure water aimed directly at the upper Gap of the tailgate and tail light

Posted

Below is the spreadsheet I came up with on every folding cover I could find (I decided folding was for me).  Those highlighted in green are my finalists.

 

In my opinion, anything that requires you to lift the cover before closing the tailgate is a piece of crap.  

Gator = piece of crap.  All of their stuff requires lifting before closing the tailgate.  Why would someone accept that in a cover?    
Extang = why buy that when you can buy a ACI Lomax / WeatherTech Access (same thing).  The Lomax/Access sit lower and reviews have shown they are better built while costing less.
Fold-A-Cover = pricey.  Yes, a GM accessory, but that doesn't make it good.  They sit really high.  Their latching setup is awful
 

I'm most closely leaning toward an UnderCover Ultra Flex at this point.  I fear the BAK quality.  My real concern is the UnderCover at highway speed.  I want the Lomax/Access, but not folding to the cab really hurts my love for it.  

 

Tonneau-Spreadsheet.jpg

 

 

Posted

I think, being easy to remove on the LOMAX is a big plus when you ever require full access to the bed.

  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 10/26/2018 at 7:26 PM, Nitrousbird said:

Below is the spreadsheet I came up with on every folding cover I could find (I decided folding was for me).  Those highlighted in green are my finalists.

 

In my opinion, anything that requires you to lift the cover before closing the tailgate is a piece of crap.  

Gator = piece of crap.  All of their stuff requires lifting before closing the tailgate.  Why would someone accept that in a cover?    
Extang = why buy that when you can buy a ACI Lomax / WeatherTech Access (same thing).  The Lomax/Access sit lower and reviews have shown they are better built while costing less.
Fold-A-Cover = pricey.  Yes, a GM accessory, but that doesn't make it good.  They sit really high.  Their latching setup is awful
 

I'm most closely leaning toward an UnderCover Ultra Flex at this point.  I fear the BAK quality.  My real concern is the UnderCover at highway speed.  I want the Lomax/Access, but not folding to the cab really hurts my love for it.  

 

Tonneau-Spreadsheet.jpg

 

 

This is very impressive! Lovin' the research! Judging by your signature block, it looks like you got the UnderCover Ultra Flex. How's that working out? Thumbs up...thumbs down?

Posted
On 10/23/2018 at 9:39 PM, DougFL said:

I agree.  I am really happy with my LOMAX.

BackDr.jpg

Beautiful truck. I'm looking forward to the end of my lease. I love the new front and rear ends on the Silvy and their angular lines. I'm tempted to say I like the lines better on the Silverado than the Sierra.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Oh yes, someone is going to be certainly hitting up GM service/ support for a 20 year old truck.
    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...