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Question

I recently bought a 2018 Chevy Colorado Wt with the 3.6 gas V-6   I love the truck, its quick, gets good mileage when I'm not beating on it. But when you start it after sitting a little while (3-4 hours), it sounds like its going to throw a rod. Sounds like it has no oil pressure for a couple of seconds. I'm not sure but it may be worse when parked unlevel with the front higher than level. Its making me think I should get an engine preluber. I used to have one on my 1990 dodge diesel. electric oil pump, pump up oil pressure before starting and it ran 30 seconds to 2 minutes to oil the turbo on shut down.  The dealer says the mechanic couldn't duplicate the noises. Total bull.   Does anyone else notice this? Yes the oil level is full.

 

Edited by Allen'scolorado
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Could be a defective oil filter. The oil filter has a type of "check valve" to keep the oil where it is supposed to be. If the oil filter is allowing the oil to drain down into the pan, then it would cause the top end to run dry for the first few seconds of startup. To test this theory, you could replace the filter. You could also start the truck, pull the fuel pump relay and allow the motor to die. Then let the truck sit for 4 hours. Crank the engine for 15 seconds (build up oil pressure). Replace relay >> start engine. Is the sound still there? 

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Starman8tdc,  The dealer did an oil change and hopefully they put a new filter on it.   Noise still happens.  I'll check into whether the filters they used have the check valve. I remember the old dodge slant 6 had its oil filter mounted vertical so the oil drained out when you shut the vehicle off. you had to use good filters that had the valve. some cheap aftermarket filters didn't have it.  From what it sounds like I'm thinking its lifter, valve tappet noise like madcratebuilder suggests. starmanstarman8tdc 8tdc

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You could try adding a quart of transmission fluid to the crank case and let it run for 15 minutes. The high levels of detergent in trans fluid will often free up sticky lifters. I would be hesitant to add the trans fluid to something that new though. Its mainly used on old engines as a last ditch effort before tearing the motor apart. If its a 2018 model, is there a warranty to resolve the issue? 

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The dealer says there is no issue, they say they can't hear it. Well no you can't hear it after the oil change guy starts it, brings it in the bay and then the mechanic tries to hear it.  I'm up to 5000 miles on it, I'll get after them next oil change.

 

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I have a 2018 Crew Cab LT V6 long bed, the cold start rattle is as mentioned before, the cam phaser rattle due to oil drain back after sitting for a period of time.....the dealer isnt going to repair anything and is going to tell you there is no problem, most people wont hear it because if your sitting in the vehicle and turn the ignition at cold start you cant hear it from inside, I remote start all the time and hear at it almost every cold start.....best described as a rattle for less than a second only when cold start or first start of day.....visit my YouTube channel to see a video to confirm

....there is a TSB for the rattle in other models but it doesnt cover the 2018 Colorado I believe....

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Perhaps....????

 

Quote

 

#PIP5486F: Ticking, Tap, or Rattle Noise From Engine With Possible Misfire DTCs. - (Oct 9, 2018)

 

Customers may bring their vehicle into the dealership for a rattle, tick, or knock type noise. This noise may also be accompanied by DTC P0300, P0302 or P0305 on the Active Fuel management System (AFM) cylinders.

 

Note:  If there are any drivability concerns they should be addressed prior to the following diagnostic progression including any misfire DTC.

Note: Please take a sound file or video with sound of the noise prior to any  disassembly.

 

This may be needed when contacting TAC or to be sent to engineering.

 

This could be all the time, only under load, or intermittent depending on the severity of the noise.

 

You may find this noise hard to isolate to one area in the engine. 

 

After you have recorded a sound file of the noise try to isolate the noise to a general area of the engine.

 

At that point following the steps in this PI in ORDER may help pinpoint the concern.

 

This condition may be caused by spongy stationary hydraulic lash adjusters (SHLAs) (lifters) or  damaged switching roller finger followers (SRFF) or a left bank timing chain tensioner gasket not sealing. The condition could be all the time, only under load, intermittent, or when first started after a hot soak depending on the cause.

 

Perform injector diagnosis to ensure there are no leaking injectors causing a noise due to excessive fuel in one cylinder.

 a) Perform GDS2 or AFIT test on injectors to isolate a leaking injector.

 

 b) Replace any out of specification injectors

 

 c) Reevaluate the noise.

Perform cylinder cancellation for each cylinder this may help pinpoint the source of a rattle noise.

Remove the intake manifold and visually inspect for excessive carbon on the intake valve stems and top of the valve causing noise.

a) If carbon is present then follow the latest version of 16-NA-383 to clean the valves or replace heads as needed.  

b) Reevaluate the noise concern.

Remove the cam cover of the affected bank or both if unable to isolate to inspect for soft, spongy or damaged SHLAs or rockers on all cylinders.

a) Push down on the rocker end at the SHLA to test for soft or spongy feel. (See below) 

b) Check for any visible damage to non-AFM rocker clips. (See Below)

Note: If all shla's (lifters) are hard and no damage to rockers is visible proceed to step 5 

If the replacement SHLAs are still spongy it will be necessary to remove the affected head and inspect the head gasket for debris in the oil passages noted below.

a) If debris is found, inspect the camshaft caps for wear or discoloration due to lack of oil

 b) If wear or discoloration is found then replace the cylinder head assembly with camshafts

c) If there is no wear or discoloration, clean the oil passages and replace the head gasket

d) Change the oil and filter

e) Reevaluate the noise concern.

Without starting engine, crank engine over and ensure that the valves are opening and closing

  If they are not operating correctly it will be necessary to inspect the (SRFF) for any damage

Inspect the SRFF' and rocker assemblies for any damage or dislodge. 

   Camshaft carrier assembly removal will be necessary to fully inspect the rockers and SRFF's

Below are pictures of possible SRFF failures.

   If any one of the SRFF’s are damaged it will be necessary to replace all four on the affected cylinder.

For the above conditions engine replacement is not necessary.  

Please perform the repairs for these conditions.

Inspect the left bank timing chain tensioner gasket for not sealing correctly. (see below)

Replace the tensioner and gasket if this condition is found.

) If noise condition is still present proceed to step 10.

Raise the vehicle while running or with an assistant inside.

a) With chassis ears or a stethoscope, listen to the right and left side of the engine

b) Once the noise is isolated or if unable to isolate, remove the piston and rod assemblies from the affected bank(s) to inspect for either; a loose rod bushing in the rod, or a loose wrist pin in the bushing.

We have seen both.

c) There should be no metal through the oil for this condition.

d) If this is found a piston and rod assembly will repair this noise.

Once all of the above inspections and / or diagnostics are completed, if nothing is found to be the cause for the noise, engine replacement MAY be necessary.If engine replacement is decided to be necessary, please have a TAC case started with diagnostic steps and pictures of the above processes.

Note: This PI will be updated or changed to a TSB as more information and updated parts become available.

 

 

Edited by newdude
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Also this one.....


 

Quote

 

#19-NA-066: Missing Oil Filter Adapter Insert Causing Noise, Engine Failure After Oil Filter Was Changed, Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Illuminated - (Apr 2, 2019)

 

Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:

Engine noise or engine failure shortly after an oil change

Vehicle is in for scheduled maintenance in which the oil filter adapter insert is found to be missing.

Engine failure shortly after an oil change

MIL illuminated

 

This condition may be caused by a missing oil filter adapter insert / bypass valve that was inadvertently removed during a previous oil service.

The retaining tabs on the insert may not be robust enough to retain the insert during an oil service if the filter is crushed.

 

Note: Upon inspection, the technician may notice that the oil filter has been damaged or material from the oil filter may have been pushed into the oil galleries causing an upper engine noise.

 

If no mechanical damage has been found, inspect the oil filter for damage.

If there is paper debris, codes, and/or cam actuator noises, that does not require engine replacement, repair and/or replace the affected components and clean the engine thoroughly.

 

Order and install the oil filter adapter insert/bypass valve.

If engine noise is present, it will be necessary to inspect the engine to see if any damaged has occurred such as a damaged rod bearing.

Refer to the latest bulletin PIP5216 for further engine diagnostics.

 

If engine replacement is necessary, there is no need to order an insert. The new engine will come with the oil filter adapter which has it installed already.

If the insert is missing and no other damage or debris is present on the engine, order an oil filter insert/bypass valve and install.

If the insert is present, continue with SI diagnostics for applicable concern.

 

 

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It's been a long time since I asked about the start up rattle noise. It still does it, Truck is coming up on 24,000 miles now.  I'll have to see if it has the Oil filter adapter. I don't remember now if it did this before and after it's first oil change. At the first service about 2000 miles I had the dealer install the remote start.  That may be when I first noticed it,. The oil has been changed many times at this dealership since then, every 5-6000 miles.  I would hope they'd notice it. But I've been battling a vibration as well that they blamed on under coating over spray on the driveshaft.   Juts had the transmission oil changed to fix the shuddering. That seems to have worked.

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