Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

If they have the entire rear interior pulled out, you are missing a golden opportunity to get some dynamat installed to sound proof things. I removed the rear seats and carpet on my 16 and did sound proofing. It is a lot of work.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Posted
5 hours ago, ShamrockShooter said:

So not a single LT or RST with a leak on this forum?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

There might be a LT or a RST in the bunch but the user did not list the type of Silverado.  My guess is if the vehicle has a Power Slider in the rear and depending on the build date [If GM switched window vendors or took action to correct the window deficiency] it will leak.

Posted (edited)

Today I just sprayed the back glass area with a hose and then went through a drive thru car wash. Couldn't find any water on seats after either one. My build date sticker shows 11/18 but just bought last week. Maybe I'm ok for now, but with all the issues reported here, I'm going to inspect any time it rains. Mine is a LTZ. 

Edited by UGADawgs
Posted

So my truck has been sitting on the dealer lot since late August 2018. Given how wet my headliner is on both sides and the amount of water dripping on the seats, I am assuming it has been doing this every time it rained since last fall? So that is what headliner, front and rear window, seats, carpet, rear window motor, all the sound proofing material that needs to be replaced? What about the side impact airbags that run along the roofline?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Take my truck for example, built Aug 18 and bought Sept 13 2018. Washed it frequently, been in a few rainstorms and no leaks. Last Saturday, a slow drizzle and I have a few drops in the back.

Maybe yours has not leaked since day one but just got worse over time. Anyhow the dealer will probably replace the window and headliner. The carpet should be but the dealer/GM may balk saying it will dry out. If it has not rained since you bought it, then your case will be good to go in saying that it has been leaking a long time. The air bags will be fine. But the interior will get emptied out in the rear to replace everything. Get it to the dealership, call Chevy Care and keep us updated on what they do to the vehicle. Sorry about your circumstances and I hope GM, Dealer treat you and your vehicle with great care.

Edited by Rocz3cqg
Posted

I'm gonna drop my truck off tonight after getting back from opening day of trout season. I already called the guy t customer care that helped me out with my 16 k2 troubles and left a message to open a case number and call me this morning. Fingers crossed.

Did anyone get offered an extended warranty or maintenance plan for their troubles?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Posted

I believe Chevy gave Demon a certificate and he used that to purchase a Bull Bar. It never hurts to ask Customer Care.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 3/31/2019 at 5:35 AM, ShamrockShooter said:

So not a single LT or RST with a leak on this forum?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

I didn't see an LTZ in that list either.   GREAT notes, thank you!!! 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I agree with Tim.  As tech heavy as engines are these days, no way I’d be an early buyer of the new 6.6.  Of course, I bought my ‘26 Denali w/the 6.2 after dumping my Tundra with it’s defective 3.5 liter imploding engine disaster, so I’m a little gun-shy.  That said, my 6.2 has been rock solid.  I don’t drive it like I do my BMW Z4 M40i, but I don’t baby it either.  I got a V8 for a reason.  But I’m averaging 18 around town and 22 highway.  I have seen 24 highway as well when I wasn’t loaded up heavy.  Considering my Tundra with the twin turbo V6 only got 14.5 in town and 17 on the road, I’ll take the 6.2 all day, every day.  If I were you, I’d grab a ‘26 while you can.  Inventories are probably gonna start dropping and I’ll bet the deals will start looking sweeter as well.
    • I am curious if anyone has figured out a way to add an hard button AUX or 360 Camera switch to the center row of switches. I have a 2021 AT4, and want to split the hill decent button and add a 360 camera button so that you don't have to go into the center display and locate the camera functionality, etc...   My father's 2024 Yukon XL AT4 and it has a hard button, see below. I found this thread on the Yukons, but it seems like there may not be a part number for the 2021 sierras. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/255339-adding-hard-button-for-camera-on-2021/ Anyone else figured this out. Seems like it would need to be a custom switch!   I am getting ready to install the auto stop/start eliminator, so would be nice to knock them out at once.     Upvote1Downvote0Go to comments
    • Looks like the entire state is burning. 😬
    • Through the years it hasn't been my typical method as I tried to drop oil on an engine that was hot from having been worked, however that was not always practical and had to fire up a unit and let it warm up reasonably well and drop the oil when I had the time to do it but am referring to not only vehicles but a variety of farm equipment and highway tractors etc. However on a vehicle where one is crawling under it and the exhaust is nearby to ones body and if wanting to pull the plug without danger of being hit with boiling hot oil or attempting to remove a HOT oil filter, its sure safer and easier to not have everything smoking hot and can remove the filter right away when under the vehicle and let it all drain. Of course its not the end of the world if a bit of oil stays in the engine that might have eventually found its way out, I like to get out as much as possible but any oil changes that take place in shops would rarely be sitting around for very long at all before the plug is thrown back in and filter slapped on and oil poured in and sent out the door quick like. There would be very little time spent ( assuming they even did it ) in starting the engine with oil to fill the filter, then waiting to verify the level on the stick. A good reason to check ones oil level shortly after a shop changed the oil on a vehicle just to make sure its correct and to look under for any oil around the drain plug or filter. 
    • Cool to see another Vermonter!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...