Jump to content

Rear window leak

Demon
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Rocz3cqg
Rocz3cqg

Sliding Glass or / and Stop Light Module reported Leaking Situation             Contacts

ShamrockShooter
ShamrockShooter

Well my 2019 early build leaker was replaced with 2020 hopefully not leaker. No signs of an leaks on the window or headliner of the 2020 so fingers crossed. Very impressed with the 10 speed after th

Thomcat
Thomcat

No leaker here so can't do a 100% verification, but the problem seems to be with the spoiler design, regardless of weather the sealer leaks or not, and any cracks in the trim make it worse.  

Posted Images

Rocz3cqg Enthusiast

Rocz3cqg

Posted
Posted

Talked to a mechanic at the dealership. He brought up the Bulletin and it stated vehicles built before Oct 18 2018 are affected by this problem.

  • Thanks 2
OnTheReel Senior Enthusiast

OnTheReel

Posted
Posted (edited)

Leave it to me to have one that was built on Oct. 14th....Oh well, so far so good...

Edited by OnTheReel
white94rx Enthusiast

white94rx

Posted
Posted

Mine was built in August 18. Dropping mine off Wednesday morning. I hope they're prepared to deal with a fellow technician.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  • Haha 2
Demon Enthusiast

Demon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I don't know what the build date is on my truck but I've had it since OCT so I'm pretty sure it was built before that date.

ShamrockShooter Senior Enthusiast

ShamrockShooter

Posted
Posted

In addition to the water leak it was 21 degrees for the opening of trout season today and my parking sensors decided I was going to hit invisible ghosts and starting beeping non stop. Then on the way home as the 6 inches of snow was melting on the roof of my truck I was watching slow drips of water trickle down in my rearview mirror. Not a good sign considering I have not even burned through a quarter tank of gas yet!

I reached out to the contact I used with my last truck at GM Priority care and got a case number opened up. He was going to contact the district rep to see about a buy back. My main point of contention is that this is a known and documented quality control issue with certain build date trucks, and GM should be requiring dealers to verify there are no water leak issues before an early build truck still on the lot can be delivered (now that they know there is a problem).

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Rocz3cqg Enthusiast

Rocz3cqg

Posted
Posted (edited)

The parking sensors will go off in the cold and if iced over. Pretty normal for the sensors. I would go out and heat the ones up when they come on in error and it usually fixed the problem. The problem was known once multiple maintenance reports started trickling in. Since a Recall has not been established, GM will not require the Dealers to do anything unless the user brings it to their attention. Now if the Dealership knew of a problem with that truck [actually seen water and sold it] and let you buy it, Buyback case might be stronger. Being so new and the damage done, hopefully GM and the Dealer will make it right by just exchanging like wise vehicles. But in my experience, expect the "let us fix it to your satisfaction" and present you with some certificate or discount for your troubles. If this is the case, stick to your guns and ensure every swirl, scratch, trim damage, rattle etc is taken care of. Ask them them to take it to a detail shop and have paint correction done along with ceramic coating. At the minimum they should be removing everything in the rear, including the windshield, headliner, carpet, rear window and the seats. Good Luck and keep us informed.

Edited by Rocz3cqg
CadillacLuke24 Enthusiast

CadillacLuke24

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, ShamrockShooter said:

In addition to the water leak it was 21 degrees for the opening of trout season today and my parking sensors decided I was going to hit invisible ghosts and starting beeping non stop. Then on the way home as the 6 inches of snow was melting on the roof of my truck I was watching slow drips of water trickle down in my rearview mirror. Not a good sign considering I have not even burned through a quarter tank of gas yet!

I reached out to the contact I used with my last truck at GM Priority care and got a case number opened up. He was going to contact the district rep to see about a buy back. My main point of contention is that this is a known and documented quality control issue with certain build date trucks, and GM should be requiring dealers to verify there are no water leak issues before an early build truck still on the lot can be delivered (now that they know there is a problem).

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

Sorry to hear of your misfortune, the wanting to puke feeling is very well justified. That being said, I think you took the best course of action. Would be cool if they special ordered you a truck and gave you a nice discount, should you want to replace the TB with another TB.

ShamrockShooter Senior Enthusiast

ShamrockShooter

Posted
Posted

Just purely hypothetical, if GM offered you free oil changes and tire rotations for 75k miles, and extended your bumper to bumper warranty to 5 year 100k miles, and the truck was repaired, would you take that, or a new replacement truck with no extra warranty or maintenance?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Rocz3cqg Enthusiast

Rocz3cqg

Posted
Posted

It depends on many things whether I would choose the incentives over a new truck. You know the old saying "Things are not always greener on the other side". Your have owned your truck for a few weeks and have not done to many mods to it which would cost you to replicate or transfer. If the Dealership replaced everything and did a great job and you could not tell that a problem ever existed, I would take the Oil and Tire changes with the extended warranty. If on the other hand the Dealership did a poor job and you knew every time you walked up to the truck, I would take my chances with a new truck.

ShamrockShooter Senior Enthusiast

ShamrockShooter

Posted
Posted
It depends on many things whether I would choose the incentives over a new truck. You know the old saying "Things are not always greener on the other side". Your have owned your truck for a few weeks and have not done to many mods to it which would cost you to replicate or transfer. If the Dealership replaced everything and did a great job and you could not tell that a problem ever existed, I would take the Oil and Tire changes with the extended warranty. If on the other hand the Dealership did a poor job and you knew every time you walked up to the truck, I would take my chances with a new truck.
You definitely make good points. In my case I picked it up late Friday, and had the issue Sunday morning. So I didn't get a couple weeks, more like 15 miles with the vehicle.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Rocz3cqg Enthusiast

Rocz3cqg

Posted
Posted (edited)

Had a User Miguel [Facebook Group] report a Build Date of 1/27/2019 with water leakage that damaged his headliner

Edited by Rocz3cqg
ShamrockShooter Senior Enthusiast

ShamrockShooter

Posted
Posted
Had a User Miguel [Facebook Group] report a Build Date of 1/27/2019 with water leakage that damaged his headliner
Slider or Fixed window? US or Mexico build? That really sucks.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Rocz3cqg Enthusiast

Rocz3cqg

Posted
Posted

Well my journey starts. Vehicle at the dealership and being prepped for the water leakage test.  Had talked to the mechanic and he was going to 

look at it and try to seal without removing the window. If the window has to be removed, I ask them not to remove it until I talk with the dealership and

GM about authorizing a new window so the removal process is only done once and not multiple times.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • needafix
      2019+ Brake failure, it's complicated

      By needafix · Posted

      I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Donstar
      Navigating senior years.

      By Donstar · Posted

      Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!
    • Another JR
      Trailer TPS Sensor Question Rim Size

      By Another JR · Posted

      Grommets with the right cement should be perfectly fine. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      This is going to take allot of Assembly    
    • PunchT37
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      Why do they have the gas 10l80 opening at 145?

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...