Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 2/22/2025 at 10:20 PM, newdude said:

 

 

If you are only going 2000mi before the low oil pressure light comes on, something is going on.  Filter is getting restricted and its bypassing, oil pickup tube is failing, oil pump is weak, etc.

 

Have you tried running the UPF-48R or UPF-63R filters?  If not, what filter are you using?  


I have a shop do it because it’s so convenient. This last time was LOF. They installed a Parts Master 67060. 
https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Master-67060-Oil-Filter/dp/B0094IO7P8

Posted

"parts master"?

Did you ask them to install the cheapest filter they could find?

Try using good filters.  Probably should consider a better oil as well.

Posted
On 2/22/2025 at 9:18 AM, AndySilverado said:

For how many miles/hours after your oil change with that filter does the problem go away? My 2010 Silverado 1500 does the same thing. An oil change every ~2,000 miles fixes my low pressure. If I try going longer, the low pressure returns. I just did my third “short interval” oil change because of that issue and what fixes it. 

 

Just tossing this out there. Most Big Box Store oils are not shear stable and within the period of time you state will shear down about 1 SAE grade. Maybe more if the tune is a bit off or GDI is in play where fuel dilution is also a factor on higher milers. 

 

While you might not be able to see it on a dash gauge the sensor that feeds the MIL/ECM does. If the motor is a higher miler a little is enough. Early in life when clearances are tighter, not a problem in that moment

 

A pretty easy way to test that theory is try a shear stable oil of a bit higher viscosity. That is if you are using a 5W30 GF6 oil try something like Castrol Edge Euro 5W30 ACEA C3/C4. If you are worried it may clean it out to good then a synthetic 0W40 or 5W40 with the Porsche A40 certification. Walmart carries Castrol Euro in both grades for about $26 for a 5 quart jug. 

 

IF you just want to test the filter idea change just that with the low pressure light comes on. If it corrects it, filter is loading fast and if not the viscosity is breaking down. 

 

Your not looking to change your oil religion just testing the hypothesis.  

Posted

My pickup has 145k miles. Thanks everyone for your replies. I’ll do good filter next time AnA hope it resolved this issue. I’ll probably post again in about 2000 miles. 

  • Thanks 1
  • 5 months later...
Posted

Posting an update on this topic...  Sorry it has been so long because my pickup made it 4700 miles (and 150 engine hours) which is about 3000 miles farther than I thought it would without the oil pressure going below 20 psi.  Just like before, it got closest to low pressure after it was warmed up and at idle.  The only major difference between oil changes that I can think of was the climate:  3 coldest months (December to February) vs mildest months (March to June).

 

I did full synthetic (https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-5w-30) and brought my own AC Delco UPF63R so we'll see how this goes.  Thanks again for all the comments!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...