Jump to content

Hood Latch Switch Bypass

TenshiWingusu

By TenshiWingusu
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

Linden16 Enthusiast

Linden16

Posted
Posted
33 minutes ago, TenshiWingusu said:

I hear ya. I would check the resistance on the new switch in both positions, you can force the latch closed with a screwdriver then pop it with the interior hood release. If the switch is in the spec mentioned above it's either bad wires somewhere or the control module has issues.

Yeah hey. I wonder if the dealership can silence the alarm that would be perfect as long as theres no ringing id be happy lol

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

TenshiWingusu
TenshiWingusu

I made an account just to post the fix for this, couldn't find it anywhere.... Your mileage may vary but this is what worked for me.   After having my alarm go off continuously with the hood

Travis Dach
Travis Dach

Please Please Please,   Before anyone puts in a resistor to replace the hood switch, look at this first, especially if you are having these symptoms below.      Hood open warning w

Linden16
Linden16

But yeah i want my remote start thats handy lol. Buy a $60000 truck and have no remote start cause of a stupid hood sensor. Ill have to call the dealership and see. But i know theyll just charge you a

Posted Images

Linden16 Enthusiast

Linden16

Posted
Posted
On 2019-02-18 at 11:18 AM, TenshiWingusu said:

I hear ya. I would check the resistance on the new switch in both positions, you can force the latch closed with a screwdriver then pop it with the interior hood release. If the switch is in the spec mentioned above it's either bad wires somewhere or the control module has issues.

Do you think if I unplugged that sensor and got a aftermarket remote start would it work? Or would the aftermarket remote start still need to know that the hood is closed so would have to stay plugged in

  • 1 month later...
nissyota88 New Member

nissyota88

Posted
Posted

Can someone please show me a wiring diagram and pins on bcm. This truck got in a wreck and has a different wiring harness, but came stock with a hood switch with no pigtail

  • 5 months later...
jaytee10 New Member

jaytee10

Posted
Posted
On 4/20/2019 at 1:54 AM, nissyota88 said:

Can someone please show me a wiring diagram and pins on bcm. This truck got in a wreck and has a different wiring harness, but came stock with a hood switch with no pigtail

What model year truck do you have?

  • 2 months later...
Nick1220 New Member

Nick1220

Posted
Posted

I have a 2008 Chevy equinox that the factory remote start stopped working on. No service engine lights. No indication that a door or hood is open. I’ve changed the gas cap and even checked the tire pressure even though no lights indicated such problem. However I’m still having the same issue. The remote start won’t start the vehicle. The key fob locks/ unlocks the vehicle any and every time a button is pushed. Even illuminates the light when attempting to remote start but it’s like the process just stops. I’m lost definitely could use some ideas and can’t afford a garage to fix it. 

  • 1 month later...
ride_z71 New Member

ride_z71

Posted
Posted

One evening my 2018 stock alarm went off...I thought I must have hit the panick button on my remote...

The next morning I could not remote start the truck...

I get in, start it, and my hood open message was on with my check engine light...I checked the hood several times and it was opening and closing as it should...

Searched and found this post, measured the resistance between the black and red wire on the hood sensor connector and it read 529 ohms ope or closed.

Replaced the hood sensor and it fixed the open hood message and then I had to clear the code...

 

Tempatures were in the 20's to 30's and I had 51,000 miles...Makes no sense.

ScottC19 New Member

ScottC19

Posted
Posted

Hey Everyone, just had this problem on my 2018 Silverado LT. I think i found the issue. If you go to the hood with it closed and push down lightly on the hood even with your finger it will have some play. Open the hood, there are 4 rubber "standoffs" i'll call them. They keep the hood a certain distance from the plastic cover on the inside. turn them to the right they go down, turn left they stick out further. I just loosened mine so the hood would stand off the truck a bit further this makes the hood engage the latch more to hold it down. I think that movement of the hood was making the sensor think the hood was open because there was no pressure against the latch from the hood. 

  • Like 1
ScottC19 New Member

ScottC19

Posted
Posted
On 2/17/2019 at 1:57 PM, Linden16 said:

Yeah its the whole late assembly correct. So i installed that and still have the same problem yup.. not sure what else could be causing it. And like i said it only rings when the trucks cold. After a few minutes of driving it stops

Hey Everyone, just had this problem on my 2018 Silverado LT. I think i found the issue. If you go to the hood with it closed and push down lightly on the hood even with your finger it will have some play. Open the hood, there are 4 rubber "standoffs" i'll call them. They keep the hood a certain distance from the plastic cover on the inside. turn them to the right they go down, turn left they stick out further. I just loosened mine so the hood would stand off the truck a bit further this makes the hood engage the latch more to hold it down. I think that movement of the hood was making the sensor think the hood was open because there was no pressure against the latch from the hood. 

Jason56 New Member

Jason56

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey y’all just wanted to post that I tried the resistor and it worked!  I bought 2.2k ohm resistors off Amazon and soldered it in.  I was getting +\- 520 ohms with the hood open or closed so I knew it was the sensor.  Thanks for posting!

Edited by Jason56
  • Like 1
jagabom (Esquire) Enthusiast

jagabom (Esquire)

Posted
Posted
20 hours ago, Jason56 said:

Hey y’all just wanted to post that I tried the resistor and it worked!  I bought 2.2k ohm resistors off Amazon and soldered it in.  I was getting +\- 520 ohms with the hood open or closed so I knew it was the sensor.  Thanks for posting!

Can you post a link to the resister?

Thanks

Jim

gmgmgmgmgm New Member

gmgmgmgmgm

Posted
Posted

The resistance values (ohm's) stated earlier in the thread are correct, ~740 and ~2.2k ohms for opened and closed respectively. The linked 2.2k ohm resistors should work fine bypassing the switch.

 

For anyone having the issue, GM has a TSB out for this specific issue as well, regarding loose/bad grounds. If the resistance values of your hood switch are within spec. You may have a bad ground.

 

In my case it turned out to be caused by the ground braid (labled 3). Under the hood on the drivers side firewall. It is a thick braided flat steel cable bolted to the body cowl, bolt was lose an jiggled around. Throwing hood sensor codes (short to battery & open circuit). You may need to check the opposite end of the ground braid as well on the left rear cylinder head.

 

https://imgur.com/a/kddguGK

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

  • Thanks 1
  • 1 month later...
KCAudio New Member

KCAudio

Posted
Posted

I have a 2014 Sierra Denali 1500. The hood open alarm comes on when I have to much going on inside the truck, for instance if I have my AC full blast and AC seats (passenger/driver) going all at the same time the alarm will start to chime. I unplugged it before and it stopped. I was able to continue as normal. I am not to sure if it’s just the hood sensor or if the problem may go deeper, like to the BCM. Can anyone let me know if changing the sensor out would be the fix?

 

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • dna9656
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By dna9656 · Posted

      Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • Another JR
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Another JR · Posted

      The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...