Jump to content

Hood Latch Switch Bypass

TenshiWingusu

By TenshiWingusu
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

Linden16 Enthusiast

Linden16

Posted
Posted
33 minutes ago, TenshiWingusu said:

I hear ya. I would check the resistance on the new switch in both positions, you can force the latch closed with a screwdriver then pop it with the interior hood release. If the switch is in the spec mentioned above it's either bad wires somewhere or the control module has issues.

Yeah hey. I wonder if the dealership can silence the alarm that would be perfect as long as theres no ringing id be happy lol

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

TenshiWingusu
TenshiWingusu

I made an account just to post the fix for this, couldn't find it anywhere.... Your mileage may vary but this is what worked for me.   After having my alarm go off continuously with the hood

Travis Dach
Travis Dach

Please Please Please,   Before anyone puts in a resistor to replace the hood switch, look at this first, especially if you are having these symptoms below.      Hood open warning w

Linden16
Linden16

But yeah i want my remote start thats handy lol. Buy a $60000 truck and have no remote start cause of a stupid hood sensor. Ill have to call the dealership and see. But i know theyll just charge you a

Posted Images

Linden16 Enthusiast

Linden16

Posted
Posted
On 2019-02-18 at 11:18 AM, TenshiWingusu said:

I hear ya. I would check the resistance on the new switch in both positions, you can force the latch closed with a screwdriver then pop it with the interior hood release. If the switch is in the spec mentioned above it's either bad wires somewhere or the control module has issues.

Do you think if I unplugged that sensor and got a aftermarket remote start would it work? Or would the aftermarket remote start still need to know that the hood is closed so would have to stay plugged in

  • 1 month later...
nissyota88 New Member

nissyota88

Posted
Posted

Can someone please show me a wiring diagram and pins on bcm. This truck got in a wreck and has a different wiring harness, but came stock with a hood switch with no pigtail

  • 5 months later...
jaytee10 New Member

jaytee10

Posted
Posted
On 4/20/2019 at 1:54 AM, nissyota88 said:

Can someone please show me a wiring diagram and pins on bcm. This truck got in a wreck and has a different wiring harness, but came stock with a hood switch with no pigtail

What model year truck do you have?

  • 2 months later...
Nick1220 New Member

Nick1220

Posted
Posted

I have a 2008 Chevy equinox that the factory remote start stopped working on. No service engine lights. No indication that a door or hood is open. I’ve changed the gas cap and even checked the tire pressure even though no lights indicated such problem. However I’m still having the same issue. The remote start won’t start the vehicle. The key fob locks/ unlocks the vehicle any and every time a button is pushed. Even illuminates the light when attempting to remote start but it’s like the process just stops. I’m lost definitely could use some ideas and can’t afford a garage to fix it. 

  • 1 month later...
ride_z71 New Member

ride_z71

Posted
Posted

One evening my 2018 stock alarm went off...I thought I must have hit the panick button on my remote...

The next morning I could not remote start the truck...

I get in, start it, and my hood open message was on with my check engine light...I checked the hood several times and it was opening and closing as it should...

Searched and found this post, measured the resistance between the black and red wire on the hood sensor connector and it read 529 ohms ope or closed.

Replaced the hood sensor and it fixed the open hood message and then I had to clear the code...

 

Tempatures were in the 20's to 30's and I had 51,000 miles...Makes no sense.

ScottC19 New Member

ScottC19

Posted
Posted

Hey Everyone, just had this problem on my 2018 Silverado LT. I think i found the issue. If you go to the hood with it closed and push down lightly on the hood even with your finger it will have some play. Open the hood, there are 4 rubber "standoffs" i'll call them. They keep the hood a certain distance from the plastic cover on the inside. turn them to the right they go down, turn left they stick out further. I just loosened mine so the hood would stand off the truck a bit further this makes the hood engage the latch more to hold it down. I think that movement of the hood was making the sensor think the hood was open because there was no pressure against the latch from the hood. 

  • Like 1
ScottC19 New Member

ScottC19

Posted
Posted
On 2/17/2019 at 1:57 PM, Linden16 said:

Yeah its the whole late assembly correct. So i installed that and still have the same problem yup.. not sure what else could be causing it. And like i said it only rings when the trucks cold. After a few minutes of driving it stops

Hey Everyone, just had this problem on my 2018 Silverado LT. I think i found the issue. If you go to the hood with it closed and push down lightly on the hood even with your finger it will have some play. Open the hood, there are 4 rubber "standoffs" i'll call them. They keep the hood a certain distance from the plastic cover on the inside. turn them to the right they go down, turn left they stick out further. I just loosened mine so the hood would stand off the truck a bit further this makes the hood engage the latch more to hold it down. I think that movement of the hood was making the sensor think the hood was open because there was no pressure against the latch from the hood. 

Jason56 New Member

Jason56

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey y’all just wanted to post that I tried the resistor and it worked!  I bought 2.2k ohm resistors off Amazon and soldered it in.  I was getting +\- 520 ohms with the hood open or closed so I knew it was the sensor.  Thanks for posting!

Edited by Jason56
  • Like 1
jagabom (Esquire) Enthusiast

jagabom (Esquire)

Posted
Posted
20 hours ago, Jason56 said:

Hey y’all just wanted to post that I tried the resistor and it worked!  I bought 2.2k ohm resistors off Amazon and soldered it in.  I was getting +\- 520 ohms with the hood open or closed so I knew it was the sensor.  Thanks for posting!

Can you post a link to the resister?

Thanks

Jim

gmgmgmgmgm New Member

gmgmgmgmgm

Posted
Posted

The resistance values (ohm's) stated earlier in the thread are correct, ~740 and ~2.2k ohms for opened and closed respectively. The linked 2.2k ohm resistors should work fine bypassing the switch.

 

For anyone having the issue, GM has a TSB out for this specific issue as well, regarding loose/bad grounds. If the resistance values of your hood switch are within spec. You may have a bad ground.

 

In my case it turned out to be caused by the ground braid (labled 3). Under the hood on the drivers side firewall. It is a thick braided flat steel cable bolted to the body cowl, bolt was lose an jiggled around. Throwing hood sensor codes (short to battery & open circuit). You may need to check the opposite end of the ground braid as well on the left rear cylinder head.

 

https://imgur.com/a/kddguGK

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

  • Thanks 1
  • 1 month later...
KCAudio New Member

KCAudio

Posted
Posted

I have a 2014 Sierra Denali 1500. The hood open alarm comes on when I have to much going on inside the truck, for instance if I have my AC full blast and AC seats (passenger/driver) going all at the same time the alarm will start to chime. I unplugged it before and it stopped. I was able to continue as normal. I am not to sure if it’s just the hood sensor or if the problem may go deeper, like to the BCM. Can anyone let me know if changing the sensor out would be the fix?

 

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • devonthegreat
      anyone interested in a 2002 Chevy Silverado 4x4 parts truck NYC

      By devonthegreat · Posted

      **SOLD** Please end or delete post. thank you
    • PBNB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By PBNB · Posted

      Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...