Hood Latch Switch Bypass

[snailtrax]

.KCAudio, Read the post directly above yours. Check the grounds

Edited April 26, 2020 by snailtrax

[JD15Sierra]

Anybody find any other solutions to this problem? I have a '15 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT and mine started doing this a couple years ago when it was under warranty so I had the dealer take care of it. The service writer didn't know what the fix was when I picked it up after asking. Now the truck is not under warranty and it is doing it again. The strange part is that it only happens when I hit a bump and goes away right after. I checked all the grounds and they are tight and I also wired in the 2200 ohm resister but that didn't fix it. 

[Patrick Coster]

Where did you get the resistor?

[WhiteDiamond6.2]

On 4/26/2020 at 6:17 AM, KCAudio said:

I have a 2014 Sierra Denali 1500. The hood open alarm comes on when I have to much going on inside the truck, for instance if I have my AC full blast and AC seats (passenger/driver) going all at the same time the alarm will start to chime. I unplugged it before and it stopped. I was able to continue as normal. I am not to sure if it’s just the hood sensor or if the problem may go deeper, like to the BCM. Can anyone let me know if changing the sensor out would be the fix?

 

Thanks

I have a 2014 high country well I unplugged the latch sensor because it was driving me insane ringing constantly I decided to finally buy a new sensor and it still didn’t fix it. My problem only happens now when I roll up my window or roll them down.

[DMThornton]

Thanks a ton to whoever figured out that the computer is looking for 2.1k ohms of resistance in order to enable the remote start. I bought a pack of 2.2k ohm resistors on Amazon for just over $5, soldered one in and it all works. Shocker!  Solder in the resistor to connect the black wire and brown/green wire coming into connector prior to the latch switch. I used a few layers of shrink tubing and electrical tape to protect it from the elements and then tie-wrapped it up to keep it from flopping around. Beats replacing the whole latch assembly or waiting for the dealership to fix the problem either under warranty or for a few hundred bucks. Easy fix, good luck.

[DMThornton]

Whoever figured out that the computer is looking for 2.1k ohms of resistance in order to enable the remote start, thank you! I bought a pack of 2.2k ohm resistors on Amazon for just over $5, soldered one in and it all works. I did it a little differently though. Solder in the resistor to connect the black wire and brown/green wire coming into connector prior to the latch switch. I used a few layers of shrink tubing and electrical tape to protect it from the elements and then tie-wrapped it up to keep it from flopping around. Beats replacing the whole latch assembly or waiting for the dealership to fix the problem either under warranty or for a few hundred bucks. Easy fix, good luck.

[Jon3232]

On my 2015 2500 high country the stupid hood latch keeps going off I have replaced it twice now and still continues to go off and I really want to use my remote start but can’t because of that it sets off the theft alert when I try to use my remote start could there be something els causing it to go off than just the sensor I have also tried bypassing it that did not work it still went off what els could it be? 

[sic02ss]

I hate to bring up an old post but my remote start started acting up, I got it to work again for a few weeks by messing with the plug then I ordered resistors, it finally started not working again so I wired it in and started the truck with the hood open.. no problem, so I put it all back together and call it a night, the next morning I hit the remote start, truck starts and then dies, put the key in and start it and get a SEL now with the code for the hood latch so I cleared it and when I got home I tried it again with another resistor just incase it was a bad resistor the first time and same thing I get a SEL light with the hood latch code.... so either my resistors are not 2.2k ohms or I just have bad luck, any ideas? I wired the red and black wires back to the switch and hit the switch with some CRC electronic cleaner and my remote start is working fine again for now. At this point a new hood latch assembly is only 50 bucks and not 150, but id rather do a quick solder job and spend 6 bucks. I guess maybe I should get a voltmeter and try it again but I assume the ohms are not close enough to the 2.2k if its not working  

[Travis Dach]

Please Please Please,

 

Before anyone puts in a resistor to replace the hood switch, look at this first, especially if you are having these symptoms below.   

 

Hood open warning when... rolling up windows, when the HVAC blower is on high, shifting in and out of park, hitting a bump.

If the warning only happens when it is cold, or mostly when it is cold outside.  If the truck is randomly alarming or the remote start isn't working or shuts off and truck alarms after it remote starts.  Or if when it has been remote stated and you unlock the the doors with the fob and the truck shuts off. 

 

If you have any of these symptoms it is most likely a loose ground!!  I have been dealing with these issues for almost 4 years now, but recently got to frequent to handle.   After taking it to the dealer with them saying the hood switch is good and they can't find the issue, I stumbled upon this thread and looked up the TSB that was posted by @gmgmgmgmgm.  I went outside and after a literal 2 min fix to tighten a nut on the ground all of my issues are gone!!! The truck even starts smoother now!!! 

 

I made some adjustments to ensure that the issues don't come back.   I removed the rubber jacket that was over the eyelet to ensure it was getting a complete ground (see attached picture) and took a wire brush to both eyelets and the ground lug.  I also added a lock washer so that it doesn't come loose again. 

 

The TSB can be found here.....  https://www.tsbsearch.com/GMC/PIT5576C

 

Hope this helps you're fantom electrical issues like I was having. 

 

[sic02ss]

12 hours ago, Travis Dach said:

Please Please Please,

 

Before anyone puts in a resistor to replace the hood switch, look at this first, especially if you are having these symptoms below.   

 

Hood open warning when... rolling up windows, when the HVAC blower is on high, shifting in and out of park, hitting a bump.

If the warning only happens when it is cold, or mostly when it is cold outside.  If the truck is randomly alarming or the remote start isn't working or shuts off and truck alarms after it remote starts.  Or if when it has been remote stated and you unlock the the doors with the fob and the truck shuts off. 

 

If you have any of these symptoms it is most likely a loose ground!!  I have been dealing with these issues for almost 4 years now, but recently got to frequent to handle.   After taking it to the dealer with them saying the hood switch is good and they can't find the issue, I stumbled upon this thread and looked up the TSB that was posted by @gmgmgmgmgm.  I went outside and after a literal 2 min fix to tighten a nut on the ground all of my issues are gone!!! The truck even starts smoother now!!! 

 

I made some adjustments to ensure that the issues don't come back.   I removed the rubber jacket that was over the eyelet to ensure it was getting a complete ground (see attached picture) and took a wire brush to both eyelets and the ground lug.  I also added a lock washer so that it doesn't come loose again. 

 

The TSB can be found here.....  https://www.tsbsearch.com/GMC/PIT5576C

 

Hope this helps you're fantom electrical issues like I was having. 

 

Hmm i might try this, its been working fine since my post but sometimes if i run into a store real quick and come back and start the truck with the key it starts really hard and slow like a dead battery but then the next time it fires right off....

[Hurley22]

On 2/17/2019 at 3:27 PM, Linden16 said:

Yeah its the whole late assembly correct. So i installed that and still have the same problem yup.. not sure what else could be causing it. And like i said it only rings when the trucks cold. After a few minutes of driving it stops

I’m running into exact same issue. Replaced the sensor and still getting same issue. And only when cold like yourself. Any luck with yours?

[Joseph333dogs]

hi is yellow wire to be grounded or just left unused

On 12/9/2018 at 10:31 AM, TenshiWingusu said:

I made an account just to post the fix for this, couldn't find it anywhere.... Your mileage may vary but this is what worked for me.

 

After having my alarm go off continuously with the hood ajar message I unplugged the hood latch sensor to fix the issue but in doing so I lost my factory remote start, not an big deal during the summer but now that its 20 degrees out its an issue. I dislike spending $100-$200 to replace a part that works fine because the $1 electrical switch integrated into it broke. The BCM seems to use logic on that pin other than high/low so the fix isn't as simple as twist the wires together. I ended up cutting the sensor/switch pigtail and wiring in a 10k ohm potentiometer and turning it till it worked. For my truck that was ~2100 ohms. The truck harness only utilizes two wires of the three pin connector and one of them is a ground. Solder in the 2100 ohm resistor in between the red and black wires as shown attached (don't forget to put the shrink tube on before) plug it in and the hood switch will be bypassed in the  "hood closed" position. keep in mind that you can now remote start with the hood open and peoples hands in there. Use at your own risk.

 

2015 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE 4x4 5.3L

Do you need to ground yellow wire

[MVP Auto Parts]

There is also a TSB (#PIT5576C) that may be related. It states that the ground on the back of the left cylinder head(drivers Side) that connects to the firewall may be loose or broken. This will also cause the "Hood Ajar" light. It is a braided strap type. The model we fixed was a 2018 Escalade. 

 

I know it's late the conversation, but I hope it helps others!