Defective Paint - 2015 Suburban

BlaineBug · February 19, 2020

6 hours ago, Bob2C said:

I am looking to give this a try with my orbital DA in the spring.. I have used the Turtle Wax Seal and Shine after I compounded in the fall and love it.. Keeps the car cleaner..

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-53412-Solutions-Ceramic/dp/B07XYPS3PV/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=turtle+wax&qid=1582096569&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFFRkJETkhZREZYT0wmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA3NjM3MDEyV09JWVFSU0VDS1NDJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1NTAyNDYzTTQxMDNLNE9JUVVLJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

I have heard good things about that as well. I bought a black 1995 Jeep with 171,000 miles back in 2005. I used some kind of paint restore wax/polish that really brought it back to life as well. I forget what the brand was but it was in a black bottle. Although it wasn't specifically for black paints. I'm not sure if this product is still made, sold, or if it has morphed into some other product by now.

This Turtle Wax product might also be a good idea as it is specifically for black paint. I know there are a lot of clear scratches in my black paint due to the car being a rental and going through tons of automatic car washes. Black looks fantastic but is also unforgiving for light defects.

Edited February 19, 2020 by BlaineBug

Bob2C · February 19, 2020

I have heard good things about that as well. I bought a black 1995 Jeep with 171,000 miles back in 2005. I used some kind of paint restore wax/polish that really brought it back to life as well. I forget what the brand was but it was in a black bottle. Although it wasn't specifically for black paints. I'm not sure if this product is still made, sold, or if it has morphed into some other product by now.

This Turtle Wax product might also be a good idea as it is specifically for black paint. I know there are a lot of clear scratches in my black paint due to the car being a rental and going through tons of automatic car washes. Black looks fantastic but is also unforgiving for light defects.

When I did my other car which is black, I was able to get out all the spider webs than you can see in black paint with this stuff along with a medium cutting pad. It took about 5-6 section passes to get it like glass with my DA. Very little dusting as well. To do it right. Just patience and lots of time but the end product is amazing

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BlaineBug · February 19, 2020

That does look great but I'm not so enthusiastic about compounding my paint. Someone else here said they had a shop do a cut and buff and it burned right through their black paint.

By the way, nice three-pod garage light you have there. The ceiling would look great if it was painted white. Probably would brighten up the space significantly.

Edited February 19, 2020 by BlaineBug

Bob2C · February 19, 2020

That does look great but I'm not so enthusiastic about compounding my paint. Someone else here said they had a shop do a cut and buff and it burned right through their black paint.

I was soo nervous at first but you just have to go for it. I watched numerous YouTube videos from Dallas Paint Correction and just followed what he showed. As long as you keep moving the DA and use a foam pad your not going to burn through clear coat. If you use lambs wool pad then it can be dicey because it will heat up and actually melt the clear coat. Stick with a orange foam medium cutting pad and you’ll be fine. DA on speed 5 to 5.5

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BlaineBug · February 19, 2020

I do have a couple of Craftsman dual action buffers that I have used, but I never put rubbing compound on paint except in rare circumstances where it couldn't possibly make anything worse. I have generally only applied car waxes and polishes with the buffer. It seemed to do the job well enough on my somewhat faded Jeep with black paint. I'll probably try that route first. Give it a really good hand wash and then get some of that black specific paint polish (like the Turtle Wax above) and give it a whirl with the orbital buffer. My paint isn't horrible but if you look closely you can see all of the lines from what I feel are automatic car washes. They are all parallel and horizontal lines, not swirls. I wish that touch-free car washes were a thing. In the 1990s they seemed to be common but now everywhere has switched to microfiber wash towels in their car washes which aren't necessarily much better than whatever the brushes were made out of in the earlier days.

Edited February 19, 2020 by BlaineBug

Bob2C · February 19, 2020

I do have a couple of Craftsman dual action buffers that I have used, but I never put rubbing compound on paint except in rare circumstances where it couldn't possibly make anything worse. I have generally only applied car waxes and polishes with the buffer. It seemed to do the job well enough on my somewhat faded Jeep with black paint. I'll probably try that route first. Give it a really good hand wash and then get some of that black specific paint polish (like the Turtle Wax above) and give it a whirl with the orbital buffer. My paint isn't horrible but if you look closely you can see all of the lines from what I feel are automatic car washes. They are all parallel and horizontal lines, not swirls. I wish that touch-free car washes were a thing. In the 1990s they seemed to be common but now everywhere has switched to microfiber wash towels in their car washes which aren't necessarily much better than whatever the brushes were made out of in the earlier days.

Don’t forget to claybar first. You will be amazed.

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BlaineBug · February 19, 2020

I've thought about clay baring. I heard some good information from Ammo NYC about just using soapy water in a bucket and not worrying about buying any special clay bar lubricant. He said so as long as the panel is wet you're good, and if it is soapy, that's even better.

Bob2C · February 19, 2020

I've thought about clay baring. I heard some good information from Ammo NYC about just using soapy water in a bucket and not worrying about buying any special clay bar lubricant. He said so as long as the panel is wet you're good, and if it is soapy, that's even better.

You can do that, but choose not because of the minerals in the water. They can mar the clear coat. I use mothers instant detailer. It’s like 5 bucks a bottle but they have a clay kit for 15. The clay will last you times. I prefer clay vs the new clay mitts that everyone is talking about.

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BlaineBug · February 19, 2020

That's a good point about hard water. Also not pressing too hard and just letting the clay do it's thing without too much manual force. I also heard of the recommendation to buy modeling clay as you can generally get quite a bit more than the specific clay bars for automotive use which are the same, identical clay substance. That tip might have been from Dallas Paint Correction too.

Bob2C · February 19, 2020

That's a good point about hard water. Also not pressing too hard and just letting the clay do it's thing without too much manual force. I also heard of the recommendation to buy modeling clay as you can generally get quite a bit more than the specific clay bars for automotive use which are the same, identical clay substance. That tip might have been from Dallas Paint Correction too.

Yeah I read that too. Same stuff just marketed differently like everything else we buy.

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BlaineBug · February 20, 2020

I have a lot of exciting things to do when the weather warms. Looking forward to it.

ginnyb67 · February 21, 2020

I have a 2016 GMC Yukon XL. Literally 30 days after warranty expired my paint on the hood started failing. I have a good relationship with my dealer but they started trying to blame my detailer. Which was ridiculous because the rest of the car was perfect. I take really good care of my car and it looks new. Anyway I got approved from GM to do the hood but by the time they could arrange the fix, the whole roof started looking like i washed it with steel wool. So when I brought it in for my paint on the hood they basically said "Oh I'm not sure if they will do it" And meanwhile they told me that they were having a lot of problems with the dark paints (mine is Iridium Metallic). So to me if this is a "problem" with GM cars then why are they refusing to fix it. It is clearly a defect! The dealer told me it would be $1082 to have it fixed!!! So now my 70k car that was only 3 years old when it first started happening looks like crap! The dealer said my only recourse was to call GM, so I tried to go through a family friend that we bought the car from. See if he could make a few calls. Got the run around for months and finally I reached out to GM myself, and they pretty much told me that I had to talk to the dealer! WTH?!?! So basically after all kinds of run around, I am going to have to spend money on a defective car that I'm not even finished paying off. Oh and did I say that I invested in the extended warranty which doesn't apparently cover paint? I also didn't mention that my father worked for Chevrolet for 40 years, our family bleeds GM. Not anymore!!!! this will be my last GM product! My Tahoe had paint issues but at least that was after 7 years. Wonder if there are enough of us we can do a class action lawsuit? I guess I should be happy that they did my hood!

Ashley Croom · April 26, 2020

Having exact same issue with my 2015 surburban!!! Entire front fender paint has faded off and looks horrific!! It was a very expensive car and I am furious at this defect.

Bob2C · April 27, 2020

On ‎2‎/‎20‎/‎2020 at 9:40 PM, ginnyb67 said:

I have a 2016 GMC Yukon XL. Literally 30 days after warranty expired my paint on the hood started failing. I have a good relationship with my dealer but they started trying to blame my detailer. Which was ridiculous because the rest of the car was perfect. I take really good care of my car and it looks new. Anyway I got approved from GM to do the hood but by the time they could arrange the fix, the whole roof started looking like i washed it with steel wool. So when I brought it in for my paint on the hood they basically said "Oh I'm not sure if they will do it" And meanwhile they told me that they were having a lot of problems with the dark paints (mine is Iridium Metallic). So to me if this is a "problem" with GM cars then why are they refusing to fix it. It is clearly a defect! The dealer told me it would be $1082 to have it fixed!!! So now my 70k car that was only 3 years old when it first started happening looks like crap! The dealer said my only recourse was to call GM, so I tried to go through a family friend that we bought the car from. See if he could make a few calls. Got the run around for months and finally I reached out to GM myself, and they pretty much told me that I had to talk to the dealer! WTH?!?! So basically after all kinds of run around, I am going to have to spend money on a defective car that I'm not even finished paying off. Oh and did I say that I invested in the extended warranty which doesn't apparently cover paint? I also didn't mention that my father worked for Chevrolet for 40 years, our family bleeds GM. Not anymore!!!! this will be my last GM product! My Tahoe had paint issues but at least that was after 7 years. Wonder if there are enough of us we can do a class action lawsuit? I guess I should be happy that they did my hood!

The more and more I think about it, I might lease my vehicles when its time for new.. 3 years and dump. Don't have to worry about all this crap. Its hard though if ones drives a lot of miles.